4age 16V ITB G4X base map

[Wuud]

As the title states I'm after a base map for a 4age 16V with ITB base map. Mainly looking for more complete fuel / ignition tables as I have gotten it to the point where I can start it, but trying to moving it for a tune etc. is a problem.

Thanks!

[Adamw]

Attached a 4age ITB fuel and ign table.  This was from a pretty stock 16V with 20V itbs.  Fuel equation mode traditional and equation load source was MAP.

Import these into your map and give it a try.

4AGE ITB fuel table.lte 4AGE ITB ign table.lte

[Wuud]

Thanks for this mate! If I wanted to change to modeled fuel what kind of changes should I expect to make to these two tables?

[Neil]

having trouble opening the tables what would you recomend me opening them with

 

[Adamw]

Right click on your existing fuel/ign table in PC Link, the >Import/Export>Import from file.

[thorns]

Bumping this, is there a complete base setup for this config I could download somewhere?

I have one already supplied by someone else, but would just like to double check everything and compare notes so to speak.

[Adamw]

I only have a G4+ map.

G4+ Atom 4AGE 16V Stock NA.pclr

[thorns]

thanks. 

 

Are there any different steps required for setting the timing on a distributor car over COP etc?  Or is it just same steps as what most videos and guides show?

[Adamw]

The main difference is with COP the engine will only run with the correct trigger offset.  With a distributor however, the engine will run with the correct trigger offset, or with the offset wrong be 180,360, or 540 degrees, so many dont even notice they have been running with the offset wrong (only effects injector timing). 

To confirm offset is correct on a distributor engine you can temporarily change ign mode to direct spark, then try starting - if it fires or coughs or tries to run at all on one cylinder then the offset is correct.  If there are no signs of life then the offset is wrong and you need to try one of the other 180deg increments.    

 

[thorns]

I think I am getting myself confused here.  My base map from MRP tell me to set the timing to 0deg.

So is below the correct steps

-Turn off the main fuel in PC lInk

-remove spark plugs (not sure if necessary but been suggested to make easier to crank)

-crank engine and set timing to 0 by rotating the distributor as required while leaving offset to 0 in PC link software

-Once I have timing set to 0 on engine, I then need to input one of the 180deg values you outlined above and perform direct spark test mode to confirm value

 

 

[Adamw]

My suggestion to ensure rotor phasing is good:

1. Turn engine by hand to 20deg BTDC.  Remove distributor cap and check that the center of the rotor is sitting right underneath a post in the distributor.  Sometimes you may need to draw a felt pen mark on the distributor or similar to get a good idea where the post is. If rotor is not centred under a post then rotate the distributor so it is.  Lock up the distributor bolt and leave it alone from now on.
2. Open the set base timing screen in PC Link - set the "lock timing to" field to some value that your front cover has.  Generally zero or 10.
3. Crank engine and check timing with a timing light.  Adjust the offset until the 0 or 10 mark lines up (depending on what value you chose in step 2). Do a store.
4. Engine should be able to start now.
5. Get engine running and make any fuel adjustments etc needed to get it running ok. 
6. Now check base timing again with engine running at fast idle - generally you will need to lock timing to 10deg for it to keep running.  Check timing doesnt drift at higher RPM.  
7. You can now do the "direct spark test" to confirm correct TDC.  If your offset was determined as say 5deg for step 6, then the potential offsets will be 5, 185, -175 or -355

[thorns]

Thank you so much for your help Adam, that gives me a great step by step to work through.

[thorns]

So car is idling and firing up easy, thanks again for outlining all those steps above, made it so easy for a newbie! Engine is running pig rich at the moment, cant run for more than 10 seconds without smoking the garage so definitely need to make some big changes to the fuel maps.

Interesing comparing the base fuel map i had been supplied and the one you supplied earlier in this thread.   Tables are slightly different, yours has TPS on the axis and mine is MAP, but the fuel values are wildly different, side by side comparison below.     Am I at any risk importing your fuel and ignition tables into my base setup given the huge variance in fuel numbers?   

[Adamw]

If it’s got ITB’s as per the title of this post then you need to use TP on the fuel table axis, the one with MAP is irrelevant.  Did you adjust master fuel to get lambda in the ball park?  

[thorns]

So have mucked around a bit trying the earlier fuel/ign and it wont run nicely, rpm bounces between 2000-2750, and then fuel cut is activating.   Went back to my earlier maps and car is idling nicely, however very rich.   Have tried doing a data log of it at the moment.   Have trimmed the master fuel back to 10ms but not sure how much further to go.   Also, have the can lambda installed, however on my tuning screen, the dial gauge does not change, have run the F12 runtimes and everything appears to be okay there, all green etc, and tried reinstalling/config but still same.  I do notice though on the log file paremeter it is saying a lambda average of 0.670, but not sure if this is from the OEM narrowband, or can wideband.

16v 4age - MRP base.pclxPC Datalog - 2021-10-16 10;05;43 am.llgx

Have attached the log and current setup.   Let me know if I need to add anything else to the log to be of use.

 

Have a friend who is handy with links coming over tomorrow, so hopefully he will be able to assist also.

[Adamw]

Turn off Lambda 2, but your lambda 1 is working.  It is pegged at 0.67 most of the time - so it is running richer than the max the lambda is capable of reading.

As mentioned earlier your MAP is very unstable and you only have 10kpa vacuum so you cant use MAP/MGP on your fuel table.