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Supra link triggers all over the place


Nathanj1142

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3 minutes ago, Adamw said:

That is just 0.15V of static noise, it is not a trigger signal.  Was the engine cranking when you clicked the capture button?  

Yes the engine was cranking!! Possible have my settings wrong on pc link? I’m just using the base map 

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17 minutes ago, Adamw said:

But did you click the capture button while the engine was cranking?  Not click capture, then crank.

I may have pressed as I was starting to crank, causing that issue. I’ll give that a go tomorrow. Any other suggestions to try if that doesn’t sort it? What about the filtering settings? Cheers

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The settings wont prevent a signal showing on the scope.  If you still get a scope capture like above and it was definately cranking while the capture button was clicked that that would suggest there is no connection between the sensors and the ecu.

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29 minutes ago, Adamw said:

The settings wont prevent a signal showing on the scope.  If you still get a scope capture like above and it was definately cranking while the capture button was clicked that that would suggest there is no connection between the sensors and the ecu.

Which would indicate the wrong pins in the ecu or a break in the wire / broken sensor?

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ECU is not showing any RPM, as it cannot recognise trigger 1 or trigger 2 signal. So you still have a wiring issue somewhere. 

I presume this is an NA-T that you have fitted a GTE oil pump to, with the crank sensor and GTE crank timing gear?

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1 minute ago, 0x33 said:

ECU is not showing any RPM, as it cannot recognise trigger 1 or trigger 2 signal. So you still have a wiring issue somewhere. 

I presume this is an NA-T that you have fitted a GTE oil pump to, with the crank sensor and GTE crank timing gear?

Yes this is correct. I have also repinned the std distributor wiring to fit a 7m-gte cps too, I am now looking through wiring. It’s plausible I have the wrong pins in the wrong slots on the ecu. Going through it all now

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Success! Ish lol. I have one sensor reading now. I had all the wiring from the cam signal wrong. I have NE (common ground on 7m cps) plugged to b6 (g1-) 
 

the GTE has 2 cam position sensors, which g1- and g2- go to pins b5 and b6. Do I need to split NE to b5- and b6- or does the link only need g1 signal?

E6F1B93F-48EC-4CBD-9EEB-5C5A26934FD7.jpeg

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Even now the cam signal still doesnt look right to me. Although it may just be that it was cranking very slow?  It still looks like the ground is missing or something.  

 

2 hours ago, Nathanj1142 said:

I have NE (common ground on 7m cps) plugged to b6 (g1-) 
 

the GTE has 2 cam position sensors, which g1- and g2- go to pins b5 and b6. Do I need to split NE to b5- and b6- or does the link only need g1 signal?

 All grounds are internally tied together and the Link ECU only needs one cam sensor.  So cam sensor ground can go to either B5, B6 or B7.

 

And NE is not the common ground in a Toyota CAS.  NE is the "crank" (24T) signal, so this shouldnt even be connected.  The common ground is usually labelled something like G- in toyota terminolgy.

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8 minutes ago, Adamw said:

Even now the cam signal still doesnt look right to me. Although it may just be that it was cranking very slow?  It still looks like the ground is missing or something.  

 

 All grounds are internally tied together and the Link ECU only needs one cam sensor.  So cam sensor ground can go to either B5, B6 or B7.

 

And NE is not the common ground in a Toyota CAS.  NE is the "crank" (24T) signal, so this shouldnt even be connected.  The common ground is usually labelled something like G- in toyota terminolgy.

Apologies I must’ve got confused, yes I have g- going to b6. The battery is at 11.7v so I’m assuming it’s cranking a bit slower. I’ll wait to get both signals reading before ironing out the quality of signal. I’ll have to try and switch around some pins for the crank signal now, i checked the resistance at the ecu end of the shielded cable I ran and the variation wasn’t as strong as just the sensor alone. Maybe it’s a grounding issue in my wiring

thanks for your support so far I’ll update you tomorrow 

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So it turns out the shielded wire is crap! I ran some more cable( not shielded) to the pins and now works as intended (so I think).

tried starting tonight but was just getting flames out the exhaust and a few tries. Took a video of spark plug 1 arcing and trying to see where it was in relation to the tdc mark. Seems to be about 20 degrees after tdc so, that needs sorting. The timing light was playing up hence why we tried filming.

can I set a ballpark ignition timing figure while cranking or does the car need to be running? I’m concerned it’s using the wrong cam signal and firing 180 degrees out. What are the settings I need to be using for the trigger setup for ignition timing? It’s set at -6 degrees for base timing and 0 for advance I think?

 

cheers

4F5A801A-A271-4ED7-8DAE-B77E9EEAD0DE.jpeg

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The offset really needs a timing light to set correctly.  If you think it is somewher close but firing on the wrong stroke then just add or subtract 360 from the existing offset.  

It looks like the cam sensor might be wried back to front in that latest scope, did you change it from the earlier one?

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