armog Posted May 16, 2021 Report Share Posted May 16, 2021 Around idle to 1500 rpm the rpm signal drops to zero for a split second and engine bucks. Trigger 1 error counter increases at that moment and car drops in rpm as it's not getting rpm signal. Checked trigger calibration and if I lock it at 15 degrees with a 0 offset it doesn't stay stable. At 11.5 afr the engine runs nicely with no rpm drop but at 14.7 afr it struggles to run like its running very lean. Going to calibrate the wideband gauge to see if its reading accurately but wanted to get input from here on what else it could be. trigger errors.llgx trigger logs.llgx TriggerScopeLog.llgx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted May 16, 2021 Report Share Posted May 16, 2021 Definitely appears to be a trigger issue. Can you attach a copy of your tune, and a couple more triggerscopes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
armog Posted May 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2021 On 5/15/2021 at 9:48 PM, Adamw said: Definitely appears to be a trigger issue. Can you attach a copy of your tune, and a couple more triggerscopes. here you go 1.5jz start up.pclx rpm cut out.llgx TriggerScopeLog.llgx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted May 17, 2021 Report Share Posted May 17, 2021 Ok, there is nothing glaringly obvious jumping out. But your cam edge is a lot closer to the crank edge than I normally like to see, so I think that is the most likely issue. If the cam edge occurs very close to a crank edge, what can happen is when you get a bit of resonance and the cam bounces back/forawrds a little, the cam edge can cross over to the other side of the crank tooth. So isntead for seeing 24 crank teeth to every 1 cam tooth - the ecu randomly sees 25 or 23, so the ecu loses position and has to wait until it sees the cam tooth again to re-sync. In the pic below I have drawn pink lines on the cam zero crossing and the crank zero crossing, notice the two long pink lines are quite close to each other and it wouldnt need much "belt slap" or backlash to cause those to cross over each other. Ideally the cam edge would occur somewhere around where I have drawn the red line (i.e exactly half way between 2 crank edges). Does your engine have an adjustable cam pulley so you can advance the cam a few degrees? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
armog Posted May 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2021 No it does not. Using the mk4 supra crank sprocket and and the 1jz 12 tooth pick up. So I have it set up as multitooth 12 tooth with a 1x cam pulse. Using a link flying lead harness. Trigger one is 12 tooth sync tooth 1 and trigger 2 is set up as cam pulse 1x. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted May 17, 2021 Report Share Posted May 17, 2021 Yes I can see that, but I think the problem is the cam tooth is not in the correct place. As I explained above it should be close to centered between two crank teeth. Possibly the block or head has been shaved a lot so the cam has been retarded from its original position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
armog Posted May 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2021 Ok I see. It is a possibility, the only correction for that I could think of is either a thicker head gasket or a shorter belt possibly. But if it's possible to correct this issue with an adjustable cam gear so be it. I just want to be able figure out what direction I should go towards for a solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted May 17, 2021 Report Share Posted May 17, 2021 An adjustable gear would be the best option. Cam just needs to be advanced a few degrees. You could also try using the second cam sensor (change offset by 360), They are usually exactly 360 deg different, but it may just be positioned slightly different and the other one works ok. It would also pay to check belt tension is ok too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
armog Posted May 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2021 update, changed reluctor wheel on crank as the previous one had spun and was no longer in the correct position. replaced with a 2jz vvti 36-2 reluctor and have issues trying to find the right trigger settings. I had it set up as 1jz vvti and it does not fire off at all, tried multitooth/missing and can get it to fire but not continue running. have the settings as 36 tooth missing 2 teeth and number of gaps at 1 and sync tooth as 1. TriggerScopeLog.llgx 2 1.5jz start up.pclx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted May 23, 2021 Report Share Posted May 23, 2021 1JZ VVt mode wont work since you have only 1 tooth on the cam. Multitooth missing should be fine and your set up looks in the ballpark. Trigger offset will likely be around 200 or -160 so try those. Crank sensor voltage still looks a bit low for one of these so not convinced the wiring is right, but it looks like it will probably be ok. I would drop your arming thresholds a little to the example below for the best chance: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
armog Posted May 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2021 Set up triggers and offset and put a fresh set of plugs and a charged battery in and she fired right up. Thank you for the help Adam, you're a genius. Only issue I have now is I can't seem to find proper injector dead time tables since the g4x has 7 volts to 22 volts as a range. Fic doesn't seem to have the deadtime table and the pulse width adder table easily findable. I am using fic 1000cc injectors and don't know what to put into the table cells between the standard 8,10,12,14 and 16 volt range. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wastegate Posted May 25, 2021 Report Share Posted May 25, 2021 On 5/24/2021 at 1:35 PM, armog said: Fic doesn't seem to have the deadtime table and the pulse width adder table easily findable. I am using fic 1000cc injectors and don't know what to put into the table cells between the standard 8,10,12,14 and 16 volt range. You looked on their website? https://fuelinjectorclinic.com/Link64-Data/Link64-1000 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted May 25, 2021 Report Share Posted May 25, 2021 If you set the injector deadtime table to 3D you can set the axis breakpoints to match the data you have been provided. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
armog Posted May 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2021 After mucking about ive got everything running properly except for one issue. link g4x fury Fic 1000 injectors with 43 psi fuel pressure and dead time tables and adder table off of fic website for link ecu. Base timing set and synced using timing light and even used a dial gauge to confirm actual top dead center and its only off by a degree from the markings on the damper and the lower timing cover marks, set up as 10 degrees ref and offset of 205. engine runs smooth and has no issues at 11.5 afr at idle but as soon as you lean out to get a stoich idle it starts to act like its lean right at 12 and gets worse the more you go. Double checked trigger polarity and thats correct, as well as confirming that no trims or anything are active in the runtime values. even checked dwell timing for coilpacks and no change when using other settings. the only thing that smoothed it out was changing the offset from 205 down to 195 which sets the timing marks at about 5 degrees and then the engine runs as expected but the timing being unsynced is obviously an issue. 2 1.5jz start up.pclx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted May 25, 2021 Report Share Posted May 25, 2021 The main problem I would say is you have an injector PW of only 1.3ms, 1.0ms of that is deadtime, so you only have an effective PW of 0.3ms. Those injectors are well into the zone where their behaviour will be quite erratic and some probably wont even open at all somewhere around that PW. The leaner you try to go, the shorter the PW and the worse it will be. Retarding the timing means the MAP will increase which will increase the inj PW and they will start to be more happy. So, either put up with a rich idle, run the idle timing quite retarded, reduce fuel pressure, or change injectors to something more suitable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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