Locknar Posted June 21, 2021 Report Share Posted June 21, 2021 Hey All, 1983 datsun-nissan 280zx NA L28e engine (straight 6) with efi, On a fuel rail with high impedance injectors, pace setter headers, innovate wideband, Stock ignition system, flaming river coil with 1.4 ohm resistance ngk stock plugs, ngk HT leads. Newer to distributor engines, and struggling with wiring the distributor from the link, the NA distributor doesn't have a CAS and has the e12-92 ignition module on two connectors to it, top connector with Pins B C and side connector I W I Tried wiring the Link ignition 1 wire to the B or the dizzy but no spark, I get spark without the ecu hooked up. Any thoughts on where to run the Ignition 1 wire? And thoughts on trigger wires? I feel like I'm missing something ridiculously obvious. Thanks everyone! Oh also attached is what my config file so far. -Nic 280zx l28e na base map setup 4.pclx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted June 21, 2021 Report Share Posted June 21, 2021 It looks to me like that module is not designed for ECU control at all. The B & C pins are the coil connections, the I & W connections are for an idle switch and thermo switch, probably adds a fixed amount of advance under certain conditions. You could probably get rid of that module, connect the intenal pickup direct to the ecu and fit any old signle channel ignitor to drive the coil from the ecu. Something like a J121 or 0227100124. Locknar 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locknar Posted June 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2021 sorry for my late replay, I saw your post right away tho! Thanks for not only a rapid response but such detail and part numbers! I will order the 3 wire one right away, I think I will make an adapter and swap out the throttle switch for a proper sweeping tps too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locknar Posted June 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2021 sorry for my late replay, I saw your post right away tho! Thanks for not only a rapid response but such detail and part numbers! I will order the 3 wire one right away, I think I will make an adapter and swap out the throttle switch for a proper sweeping tps too Sorry but just to clarify, you are suggesting running a wire from the dizzy to the atom and then the new ignition module to ign 1 on the atom? Again, thanks for all the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted June 24, 2021 Report Share Posted June 24, 2021 Yes, if you pull that E12-92 box off the side of your distributor there will be two wires that connect from that to the reluctor pick-up inside the distributor. Google pics show a red and green wire, I cant find any info on polarity but conventional logic would suggest red is the +ve and green is the -ve. Connect the red direct to trigger 1 on the ECU and the green to sensor ground. Connect the ECU ign 1 output to the IB pin on the J121. Other 2 pins as per pic below. Locknar 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locknar Posted June 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 Can't thank you enough for you help Adam! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locknar Posted August 15, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2021 (edited) Hey Adam, Sorry to be a pest, I cannot get a trigger reading to save my life, I got delayed because the breaker plate assembly was broke in my dizzy and finding a new one was troublesome but got a brand new dizzy, wired and installed the j121 igniter. I have no trigger 1 or spark or trigger 1 but I figure trigger is the biggest concern as it tells everything else when to go. my ignition coil has a resistance of 387 ohms, same as my original unit, the ground in the trigger wire has continuity to the other tps sensor ground, Set it up as reluctor, crank tooth count 12 sync tooth 1 The part that is killing me is I when I hit capture on the trigger scope I will see different results without changing anything, the wiring is solid all the way back with no continuity issues, and removed the trigger 2 red wire off the bulk head connector to avoid cross talk issues. Any thoughts, ideas, hunches or hints are appreciated Only other thing is I get a connection error "27 not implemented" while cranking TriggerScopeLog l28e.llgx TriggerScopeLog think i got it 2.llgx TriggerScopeLog think i got it.llgx 280zx l28e na base map setup 4.pclx Edited August 15, 2021 by Locknar updated logs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted August 15, 2021 Report Share Posted August 15, 2021 The second triggerscope looks like there is a faintest of signals there but not enough voltage to be useful. They have a pretty odd looking reluctor in those things and there is not a lot of info around about them so it may not be suitable. Can you try spinning it faster (pull it out and use a cordless drill or similar) and do a scope then to see if we get anything more useful out of it. Locknar 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locknar Posted August 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2021 Alright, I will try to get it pulled tomorrow, I am starting to think its not compatible, I cannot find any info either even after hours of reading manuals/forums/any thing I could find. I might have to swap over to COP setup. Thanks for the speedy response as always Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted August 16, 2021 Report Share Posted August 16, 2021 Are the L series distributors with a guts like below hard to find? This is a far more common pick up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locknar Posted August 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2021 Sadly they are unicorns, from the turbo l28 and are next to impossible. But I'm not worried, I'll grab a fresh battery and see if I can up the crank speed. I am happy to have a second set of eyes on it to make sure I didn't goof something up badly. I'll play with it this week and let you know where I land Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locknar Posted August 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2021 After more digging I can get the pictured pick up coil, seems to have the same screw pattern as the NA dizzy, I should be able to remove my existing stator and put the new pick up and get a timing wheel instead of the reluctor In your mind does that sound like a good plan instead of struggling with the existing pickup coil? link to said part https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=40296&cc=1209406&pt=7176&jsn=441 Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted August 17, 2021 Report Share Posted August 17, 2021 Yes, this would be fine, you will also need the thin metal chopper disc that goes in the middle of it too. The original Nissan one has 360 slots or you can get aftermarket ones with 24 slots. The 360 slot can be an issue at high RPM if there is significant backlash in the drive system. Probably the same as one of the other common Nissan ones - CA18/VG20/RB/SR/KA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locknar Posted September 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2021 Hey there, sorry for the delay was waiting on parts and time. I ended up converting it to a pertronix hall effects as it was a more feasible undertaking in a home garage. Pertronix #1761 And the pertronix 3 ohm coil that goes with it. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pnx-1761 Ive the atom to hall effects, 6 tooth as their is 6 lil mag stripes, hooked the red+ on the pertronix to the black trigger 1 wire, and the black pert to the white trigger ground but still nothing I carried out the pert bench test (pic attached) and saw the voltage fluctuate while I spun the mag wheel. I find it odd that trigger two shows up on the scope test when it is depinned from the harness too. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted September 4, 2021 Report Share Posted September 4, 2021 1 hour ago, Locknar said: hooked the red+ on the pertronix to the black trigger 1 wire, According to the diagram above, the red wire is meant to go to a 12V supply. The black pertronix wire would be the signal to trigger 1. Locknar 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locknar Posted September 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2021 I second guessed myself, can't thank you enough for putting up my cluelessness Also, its midnight and I just got home and could kiss you. Could only crank it a few times before the misses murders me, but finally!!! Adam I cannot thank you enough for timely response and insights, it is people like you that make Link such an amazing company Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted September 4, 2021 Report Share Posted September 4, 2021 Still doesnt quite look like a usable signal, it needs to drop below about 1V to work, that one only looks like it reaches ~3V. Not quite sure what that means, It may need a big resistor wired in to act like a coil is connected but I havent really used one of these pick-ups before. Try a couple more scopes with the trigger pull-up turned on and off to see if that makes any difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locknar Posted September 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2021 No noticeable difference, I could get a resistor and wire it in to lower the over all voltage? I would just treat is a ballast resistor and follow the wiring pertronix lays out for a resistor correct? or would I just put in line with the power wire Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted September 5, 2021 Report Share Posted September 5, 2021 Seems odd, I cant quite work out what would cause that. Does the pertronix pickup have a good path to ground inside the distributor? Try temporarily wiring an old ign coil to the pertronix red/black and see if the voltage looks better (ground the HT lead). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locknar Posted September 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2021 Grounded pert plate direct to the engine block. Now we are talking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted September 5, 2021 Report Share Posted September 5, 2021 Yep that looks usable. Set multitooth position to cam though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Locknar Posted September 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2021 Even though its off the crank driven oil pump? Tried it both ways and I get a trigger error, while cranking it says counting though, rpm and rotation are good. 280zx pert.pclx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted September 5, 2021 Report Share Posted September 5, 2021 37 minutes ago, Locknar said: Even though its off the crank driven oil pump? Distributors are always geared down and run at half crank speed. 6 teeth in the distributor are the same as 3 teeth on the crank. I wouldnt worry too much about the trigger error, these will probably occur when cranking is stopped, but I wouldnt expect them to count up while cranking. I'd probably change trig 1 edge to rising before going much further as I suspect the pertronix thing will have some sort of dwell control in it so will likely vary the falling edge. Assuming you have a spark now, you should just need to check the base timing and it will be ready to try starting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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