d1zguy Posted October 9, 2021 Report Share Posted October 9, 2021 I finally received it and got it calibrated but I'm not able to calibrate the trigger offset etc? it has a little lock next to it and doesn't let me change it. My base timing is set to 15 degrees and changing it to 15 doesn't set and save and goes back to 10? Trigger 2 stays on Yes while Trigger 1 goes off when cranking and error count goes up. I've attached the pin out for my ECU do I need to play with the dip switches? Looks like I don't, guess it's because I can't set my crank offset? S13 SR20 ECU Pinout (1).pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted October 9, 2021 Report Share Posted October 9, 2021 28 minutes ago, d1zguy said: My base timing is set to 15 degrees and changing it to 15 doesn't set and save and goes back to 10? You need to hit enter if you are typing in the number manually, it should turn blue to show it has been changed. 29 minutes ago, d1zguy said: Trigger 2 stays on Yes while Trigger 1 goes off when cranking and error count goes up. I've attached the pin out for my ECU do I need to play with the dip switches? Looks like I don't, guess it's because I can't set my crank offset? Sounds like possibly the trigger 1/2 signals are swapped. Do a triggerscope to confirm. We want to see the the 360 fine teeth on trig 1 and the 4 big teeth on trig 2, if they are the wrong way around then swap the ADM/JDM dip switches to the alternative position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d1zguy Posted October 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2021 28 minutes ago, Adamw said: You need to hit enter if you are typing in the number manually, it should turn blue to show it has been changed. Sounds like possibly the trigger 1/2 signals are swapped. Do a triggerscope to confirm. We want to see the the 360 fine teeth on trig 1 and the 4 big teeth on trig 2, if they are the wrong way around then swap the ADM/JDM dip switches to the alternative position. Ah I didn’t think to hit enter. Same for offset values I take it? Haven’t wired in the IAT car should start without it correct? I did pull up the trigger scope and gave it a spin but didn’t see anything on the screen. What’s ADM stand for? Australia domestic market? Car is a Silvia K’s from Japan in USA. reading the information car has 550cc injectors and in traditional mode I can only set the master fuel ms. The base map is set to stock 370cc one’s correct?. Should I reduce this from 14ms to 11? Or the other way around to reduce fuel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted October 9, 2021 Report Share Posted October 9, 2021 1 hour ago, d1zguy said: Same for offset values I take it? Haven’t wired in the IAT car should start without it correct? Yes and Yes. 1 hour ago, d1zguy said: I did pull up the trigger scope and gave it a spin but didn’t see anything on the screen. What’s ADM stand for? Australia domestic market? Yes, but that may not be relevant since you have an aftermarket harness, it could be anything. The important thing to understand is these switches swap trigger 1 & 2. For the trigger scope, make sure you only click the capture button when the engine is already cranking - not before. 1 hour ago, d1zguy said: reading the information car has 550cc injectors and in traditional mode I can only set the master fuel ms. The base map is set to stock 370cc one’s correct?. Should I reduce this from 14ms to 11? Or the other way around to reduce fuel? For 550cc injectors I would start with the master at about 17ms and bump it up or down from there once there are signs of life. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d1zguy Posted October 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2021 16 hours ago, Adamw said: You need to hit enter if you are typing in the number manually, it should turn blue to show it has been changed. Sounds like possibly the trigger 1/2 signals are swapped. Do a triggerscope to confirm. We want to see the the 360 fine teeth on trig 1 and the 4 big teeth on trig 2, if they are the wrong way around then swap the ADM/JDM dip switches to the alternative position. So it looks like the triggers are set correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d1zguy Posted October 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2021 Got the car started -83 degrees offset. However it looks like the connector doesn’t fit my oem blue connector right my tacho and coil ign 2 wires don’t make a good contact if I wiggle the wires it runs right. How can I improve the fitment? Oem ecu board didn’t have this issue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d1zguy Posted October 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2021 Another thing I noticed was that the connector on the link doesn’t let the connectors go all the way in. I had to cut my oem middle section to get it to be reliable. I’ll use long zip ties to make sure it stays on. I drift this car can’t afford ecu to loose power or signals and send me to a wall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted October 9, 2021 Report Share Posted October 9, 2021 We do use genuine headers so it should fit as per OEM. I have seen one a couple of years ago that had some plastic in the bottom of the threaded hole that wouldnt let it go all the way home, but otherwise I have never heard of anyone having drama with them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02wrx Posted October 9, 2021 Report Share Posted October 9, 2021 You have to press in the connector ends while tightening it down with a ratchet. If you don't the ends tend to push out slightly and not make full contact on the Nissian connectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d1zguy Posted October 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2021 1 hour ago, Adamw said: We do use genuine headers so it should fit as per OEM. I have seen one a couple of years ago that had some plastic in the bottom of the threaded hole that wouldnt let it go all the way home, but otherwise I have never heard of anyone having drama with them. I’m not sure but it fit my oem board perfectly. I did tighten it down while pushing the sides but no go it would just pivot from the center bolt one side or the other would go in but still not quiet causing tach or coils not to fire. Only way I could get both ends to sit flush and tight was to cut out the center bolt as per my picture. There isn’t anything stuck in the middle either it still fits my oem board perfectly and not the links for whatever reason. Either way it’s on there good and tight now without it and some zip ties Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d1zguy Posted October 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2021 22 hours ago, Adamw said: For 550cc injectors I would start with the master at about 17ms and bump it up or down from there once there are signs of life. So the 14ms ended up being right which is odd for 550cc injectors. Is there somewhere i can tell the ecu fuel pressure is 3bar? Also, the car on throttle tip in or quick tps transitions goes lean and stumbles then revs up. Here’s the oem board. No idea why it didn’t work on links Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted October 10, 2021 Report Share Posted October 10, 2021 1 hour ago, d1zguy said: Is there somewhere i can tell the ecu fuel pressure is 3bar? Not in traditional fuel equation, it is all rolled in to the main PW calculation. 1 hour ago, d1zguy said: Also, the car on throttle tip in or quick tps transitions goes lean and stumbles then revs up. Needs tuning now. 1 hour ago, d1zguy said: Here’s the oem board. No idea why it didn’t work on links Did you look in the bottom of the threaded hole as I suggested before? Is it the same depth? Is there any plastic blocking some of the threads? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d1zguy Posted October 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2021 On 10/10/2021 at 2:22 AM, Adamw said: Not in traditional fuel equation, it is all rolled in to the main PW calculation. Needs tuning now. Did you look in the bottom of the threaded hole as I suggested before? Is it the same depth? Is there any plastic blocking some of the threads? Yea nothing there I’ll check again once I set the jumper 7 to use maf Input as IAT. for now here’s a pic of my car sliding soon to be sliding on linkecu! Can I somehow get some linkecu livery? Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d1zguy Posted October 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2021 I've attached my basemap, setup long term fuel trims, asynchronous injection mode, based on info I've found here on the forum etc, could someone confirm everything looks good, got the cruise and just take off AFR right, could probably do a bi directional interpolations across the entire map using the values I got right correct? Also, is it recommended to run the car in Traditional fuel mode or is it best that it is switched to modelled? base map silvia.pclx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerace_fab Posted October 16, 2021 Report Share Posted October 16, 2021 I sent you a message. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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