shanky Posted January 3, 2022 Report Share Posted January 3, 2022 (edited) Hello All, new poster here. I have just purchased a new G4+ HC96X unit. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Link-ECU-Honda-Civic-1996-98-Gen-6-Link-G4X-CivicLink-98-HC96X-PlugIn-/112107482411?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0. Q1 Does this come with the usb tuner cable and the PCBUSB cable as standard? Or do I need to purchase these separately? Either way to correctly mount the two cables either side of the case I need a CANF connector? Q2 My first step is to add a wideband sensor to the car for tuning use (no need for a display), the car being a Honda del sol / with a b18c6. It has its original narrowband lambda in position still, is it worth keeping this wired up to the g4 or simply removing it and replacing with a wideband sensor. Could I wire this direct to the ECU or would I need CAN Lambda? If I do need CAN Lambda - If I were to purchase the kit - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LINK-ECU-G4-G4-G4x-CAN-LAMBDA-With-Bosch-LSU-4-9-Lambda-Sensor-/122225907744?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 Q3 As a whole, do I need purchase the following? assuming tuner cable and one canpcb is included? According to my diagram below, CANF X2 CANPCB X1 CANTLTW X1 CANEXT X1 CAN LAMBDA KIT X1 Q4 Will I run in to issues given this will be the only CAN device on the bus? I have read info on the termination resistors. I am usnure if I direct connect ECU to CANLambda that I will have an issue. Q5 Are there suggested locations to ground the CAN Lambda (assuming I take a 10amp line direct from the battery) to avoid signal noise? Q6 Next would be upon installation - I have noted the warning "DISCONNECT THE IGNITION COIL. This can be done by unplugging the large connectors going to the distributor." Is this suggesting removal all connectors (RPM AND IGN plugs) physically on the Dizzy (I have an OBD1 loom and dizzy with two plugs, with a OBD2A conversion harness for the ECU, then ensuring these steps are followed? This question is just me being paranoid about killing something. Q7 I have added wiring to include a knock sensor (OEM oarts for this engine), does this wire need to be shielded? If so where would you recommend grounding the shielding to? Edited January 3, 2022 by shanky Clearer language Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted January 3, 2022 Report Share Posted January 3, 2022 The ECU is supplied with the CANPCB and tuning cable. You will need a wideband controller. This could be a Link CAN Lambda, a 3rd party controler connected via CAN or analog input. If connecting via analog input then you could connect the controller in place of the original O2. No need to keep the narrowband if you have a wideband. You will just want a CANJST & CANEXT to connect the CAN lambda. The Link CAN lambda typically works fine if it is the only device on the bus and there is no termination resistor. I cant speak for 3rd party devices. Battery or engine block would be the best - somewhere that has a direct path to bat -ve. The idea is to disconnect the ignitor or ignition coil. Unplugging the 2 pin connector would achieve this. Shield ground is not particularly important. Just only ground one end, typically the ecu end is easiest. Connect to and power ground, sensor ground or chasiss ground will be fine. shanky 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanky Posted January 6, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2022 @Adamw Thank you, greatly appreciated. I have purchased the setup you have advised and will follow your advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanky Posted January 6, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2022 @Adamw or anyone reading this, is the stock honda knock sensor comparible with the Link knock sensor? Should I think of converting, or leaving it as is? This is a non boosted application. TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted January 6, 2022 Report Share Posted January 6, 2022 I dont have personal experience with the B18 but I havent heard of anyone having any issues with the factory sensor. Try it and see. shanky 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aerace_fab Posted January 6, 2022 Report Share Posted January 6, 2022 8 hours ago, shanky said: @Adamw or anyone reading this, is the stock honda knock sensor comparible with the Link knock sensor? Should I think of converting, or leaving it as is? This is a non boosted application. TIA upgrade to a Bosch knock sensor, if you need help feel free to send me a message. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanky Posted January 13, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2022 On 1/6/2022 at 11:36 PM, aerace_fab said: upgrade to a Bosch knock sensor, if you need help feel free to send me a message. any reasoning to do so? is the bosch unit better? thank you for your response. On 1/6/2022 at 8:24 PM, Adamw said: I dont have personal experience with the B18 but I havent heard of anyone having any issues with the factory sensor. Try it and see. Thank you @Adamw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanky Posted January 22, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2022 Hello All, am I correct in thinking that all the Link ECU range share all software functionality, however the hardware is the limitation / limit on input output functionality? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted January 22, 2022 Report Share Posted January 22, 2022 Software/firmware feature set varies with ECU also. For example Atom doesnt have launch control, Storm doesnt have cruise control or traction control. On the plug-in ecu they all use the same ECU board so the feature set is the same on all plug-ins, but the amount of IO available varies with the adapter board. shanky 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanky Posted February 3, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2022 Hi There, please and thank you in advance. Setting up the LINK external E-throttle Controller - the HC96x manual suggests using Aux1/2 or Aux3/4. Are these fixed? If I were to use the expander connectors could I use the following for the eThrottle signals AUX7/8? and use one of the marked in YELLOW AUX feeds below for the Enable ("Enable must be connected to the selected E-Throttle Relay Auxiliary") Or instead run the two signal and one enable wire, and use the following as I am using a CAN wideband, do not have an intake runner solenoid, and ethrottle will replace the ISC. Assuming the oxy heaters are the same as the other aux outputs. If the above is fixed to Aux1/2 or Aux3/4, can I use any of the above Yellow or below Red, or to be honest any selection PCLink will allow me to select to replace for the moved aux' below? PCLink will allow me to select the follwoing - however are there any gotchas on certain outputs I shoud be aware of? (apart from stealing other sensors function holders) For TPS & FPS (Main and Sub + Pwr/Gnd) Can I use the Volt 5&6 8&9? for the sensor returns Can I use the the +5v out and Gnd for the power and ground for TPS and FPS (worried about load) Expansion Connector 1 Gnd Sensor Ground Only +5V Out Low Current +5V Supply Volt 5 Analog 0-5V input Volt 6 Analog 0-5V input Aux 7 Auxiliary Output Aux 8 Auxiliary Output Volt 7 Analog 0-5V input Temp 3 Temperature sensor input Expansion Connector 2 Ign 5 Ignition 5 Auxiliary Output Ign 6 Ignition 6 Auxiliary Output Ign 7 Ignition 7 Auxiliary Output Ign 8 Ignition 8 Auxiliary Output DI 9 Digital Input DI 10 Digital Input Volt 8 Analog 0-5V input Volt 9 Analog 0-5V input Powering / signal the LINK E-throttle controller Power from the Main Relay, grounding straight to -ve or engine? Signal wires, shielded cable or without is fine? Sorry for the long one - I hope I have made it as clear as possible - TIA Christopher Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted February 3, 2022 Report Share Posted February 3, 2022 You need to use Aux 1&2 or Aux 3&4 for the E-throttle signals. Since you dont need IAC your aux 1 is free, I would just move the fuel pump wire from aux 2 to free that pin up. If you dont have AC you could move it to aux 3 or any of the other spare auxes - note Aux 5-6 have extra high side drive hardware fitted so could only be used for specific functions. The enable can be any aux/Ign/Inj. 7 hours ago, shanky said: For TPS & FPS (Main and Sub + Pwr/Gnd) Can I use the Volt 5&6 8&9? for the sensor returns Can I use the the +5v out and Gnd for the power and ground for TPS and FPS (worried about load) Yes & Yes. 7 hours ago, shanky said: Powering / signal the LINK E-throttle controller Power from the Main Relay, grounding straight to -ve or engine? Signal wires, shielded cable or without is fine? Ground to engine block or head would be good. No need for shielding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanky Posted April 19, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2022 Thank you all for your help- I am up and running and getting the car idling. 1) Am I correct in thinking I can connect the bosch knock sensor to the HC96X as following? Note - I am running an obd2a adapter to OBD1 Knock Sensor Plug @ Sensor Knock Sensor DT connector ECU 1 A (DT 3 Pin Connector) D6 2 B (DT 3 Pin Connector) D13 signal ground (it appears nothing was connected here) NO PIN 3 ( shield ) C (DT 3 Pin Connector) D13 Shared Shielding Earth / Ground 2a) I am struggling to find the visualisation menu for listening to knock audio to ensure it is working for when I take it to a mapper - where should I be looking? 2b) What Knock filter is recommended for a B18C Engine? 3) Should I be concerned that D13 Signal Ground was not populated on my loom? Everything seems to be working so far. 4) I have just realised I have put the Emodule earth straight to the -ve, should i rectify? place on the block/head? @Adamw how can I send you beer money as thanks for your help bud? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted April 20, 2022 Report Share Posted April 20, 2022 11 hours ago, shanky said: 1) Am I correct in thinking I can connect the bosch knock sensor to the HC96X as following? Yes. 11 hours ago, shanky said: 2a) I am struggling to find the visualisation menu for listening to knock audio to ensure it is working for when I take it to a mapper - where should I be looking? Load the "Default 1366 x 768" layout and you will have a page named knock, this should have most of what you need displayed. You have to enable knock and set up some basic settings, assign trim tables etc. 11 hours ago, shanky said: Should I be concerned that D13 Signal Ground was not populated on my loom? Everything seems to be working so far. No. 11 hours ago, shanky said: I have just realised I have put the Emodule earth straight to the -ve, should i rectify? place on the block/head? Do you mean -ve battery post? That would be ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanky Posted April 28, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2022 Thank you for the above Adam, all actioned and working. I have this firmware error @Adamw, please see attached image. The mapper updated the firmware with no issues, he then mapped the car successfully, and it’s driving and happy. I seem to also have an error for “injector duty cycle above error high value”, it popped up in a high load / full pedal pull up a hill at the very end of my rev limit. Where can I find the threshold settings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted April 28, 2022 Report Share Posted April 28, 2022 The "ECU running in safe mode" on the firmware updater screen is a known problem at present. It is just being reported wrong, there is nothing actually wrong. Injector duty cycle fault value is in the main fuel settings. In example below you would get the warning if an Injector DC higher than 100% was commanded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanky Posted May 4, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2022 Perfect thank you @adamw I have noticed your previous post on IACV delete on a b series ("https://forums.linkecu.com/topic/12123-iacv-delete/") - idle ignition control when removing the Idle control valve - you used the following settings (below) Would this translate to below min max system as shown (below)? I am using it as we speak as a test, and its idling lovely now, am i missing anything which may put the car at risk? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted May 4, 2022 Report Share Posted May 4, 2022 Yeah that should be fine. You might want to lift that MAP lockout up a bit as many engines wont get below 50kpa when cold. Set actuator type to none. shanky 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanky Posted December 21, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2022 @Adamw 1. I seem to have noise on the line, even when I have no sensor, or loom attached, is this normal? the furthest right blip/rev was with the sensor connected - no change. Am i missing something? 2. pin out - is this correct? knock to D6 Sensor ground and shield ground to D13 below is the link pin out to support On 5/4/2022 at 10:04 PM, Adamw said: Yeah that should be fine. You might want to lift that MAP lockout up a bit as many engines wont get below 50kpa when cold. Set actuator type to none. worked a treat thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted December 21, 2022 Report Share Posted December 21, 2022 Your gain is too high. Start at 1, then adjust until your average knock level at medium rpm/medium load is around say 100-300 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanky Posted December 21, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2022 14 minutes ago, Adamw said: Your gain is too high. Start at 1, then adjust until your average knock level at medium rpm/medium load is around say 100-300 do I need to worry that I got the same noise reading with and without the sensor connected? Do you have a link ( i think I have seen you post it before on how to setup logging ) for when I need to send you my map and logs in the future for support - and I imagine that includes my map file also. i noticed you post this link before on setup of knock - do link have a setup guide on knock control - tuning. Or do i need to go to people like hp academy to learn? Thanks you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted December 21, 2022 Report Share Posted December 21, 2022 4 minutes ago, shanky said: do I need to worry that I got the same noise reading with and without the sensor connected With the gain at 50 you are amplifying the signal 50X, so yes any noise would be amplified also. 6 minutes ago, shanky said: Dp you have a link ( i think I have seen you post it before on how to setup logging ) for when I need to send you my map and logs in the future for support Possibly this one? https://youtu.be/_P1LRANeO4A 8 minutes ago, shanky said: do link have a setup guide on knock control - tuning. no we don’t. Hp academy or evans perfomance would be the best option at the moment. shanky 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanky Posted December 21, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2022 Thanks again @Adamw- I will refine and balance the cylinders against medium load/revs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanky Posted December 22, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2022 @aerace_fab Honda Civic 96-99 G4X Xtreme Plugin - 022 knockplay.zip As per DM - @aerace_fab do I adjust each cylinder until they are even? using the ind cyl knock gain @Adamw @aerace_fabI have posted my map above - I have the car mapped on a dyno and she is running very well, but as my main goal is MPG, I was wondering what method if any I could deply to increase my mpg. I am aware of the ability of learn burn on low load, and to advance timing, could you provide some advice? also I have observed other people suggesting vtec triggering a 4d/5d table. is this a more proficient way of doing things. I fear I am in a position where if I were to change my mgp vtec trigger this would alter things and leave me with a flawed map. I often find myself not needing vtec on motorway speeds in the uk the way it triggers over is quite nice / only when you need it. but I do wonder if I am loosing mpg by not being mapped correctly off vtec due to my current configuration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted December 22, 2022 Report Share Posted December 22, 2022 8 hours ago, shanky said: do I adjust each cylinder until they are even? using the ind cyl knock gain Yes. 8 hours ago, shanky said: I have the car mapped on a dyno and she is running very well, but as my main goal is MPG, I was wondering what method if any I could deply to increase my mpg. Going leaner than stoich typically makes little difference. Your lambda target is quite a bit richer than stoich at 60 and 80Kpa though so you can probably pull that back some. Your ignition table doesnt look like it has been steady state tuned to MBT so there would be some efficiency gains to be found there. If any of the B series engines had an EGR system (suspect USA possibly did?) then that would be worth investigating, EGR usually has a decent effect on efficiency. Optimising injector timing and using an injector with good atomisation helps too. 8 hours ago, shanky said: also I have observed other people suggesting vtec triggering a 4d/5d table. is this a more proficient way of doing things. I fear I am in a position where if I were to change my mgp vtec trigger this would alter things and leave me with a flawed map. I often find myself not needing vtec on motorway speeds in the uk the way it triggers over is quite nice / only when you need it. but I do wonder if I am loosing mpg by not being mapped correctly off vtec due to my current configuration. Intake resonance is a frequency based phenomenon, so load is not a particularly relevant metric for switching the cam profile in general, the ideal switch point will generally be close to a specific RPM regardless of load. There are small effects from a partially closed throttle for example reflecting waves etc but usually little. On every B series I have tuned the ideal switch point has worked out somewhere around 4900-5600, so Im not sure how your tuner arrived at your current setting of 4000, that seems very odd and is probably throwing away efficiency. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanky Posted February 11, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2023 @Adamw Can I use the ISC solenoid on another aux other than 1/2/3/4? Also I am unable to update to the latest firmware as I still have the safe mode error from the last update. I also seem to have an odd issue with fuelling and what seems to be injector issues - even though I have moved them around to ensure these new bosch ev14s are not at fault - log attached I have updated to the new link software just incase, and its rather on and off, if I turn idle control / ignition control off it some times stabilises. I thought I was struggling with low duty cycle at 2% but then it ran perfectly fine once turning everything of @1.3% for a while. I am lost. I will place oem injectors back in tomorrow to double check and report back. PC Datalog - 2023-02-11 6;03;14 pm.llgx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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