DualMonocles Posted May 18, 2022 Report Share Posted May 18, 2022 Hi all, I'm sure this topic is beaten to death, but I can't find a post relating to what I'm seeing here. g4x xtremex, stock 09 ez30r motor. On crank I see RPM, injectors are firing. I get a long dwell time error on the ignition. With the coil unplugged, i see my 12 volts on the supply wire, and when i run the injector test, the volt meter will read a constant 3.5ish volts on the signal wire. Now I know the test should be pulsing the voltage to the signal wire, and the reading may not be accurate on a meter, so I'm not sure if the reading means anything. I believe I have a good ground. With this information, and the plug grounded to the motor, i still get no spark during the ignition test. Am I missing something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vaughan Posted May 18, 2022 Report Share Posted May 18, 2022 Attach a PC log from a failed start, a trigger scope captured while the engine is cranking and a copy of your basemap please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DualMonocles Posted May 18, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2022 Basemap, PC log, and trigger scope attached BaseMapEz30r.pclx PC Datalog - 2022-05-17 8;50;46 pm.llgx TriggerScopeLogx.llgx Vaughan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vaughan Posted May 18, 2022 Report Share Posted May 18, 2022 So it's happy with the triggers. When you do the ignition test do you have a spark plug hooked up to the coil outside of the engine so that you can physically watch for spark? What coils are you using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DualMonocles Posted May 18, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2022 Yes to the coil with plug outside of engine, (with plug physically grounded to engine) The oem Diamond fk0140. For what it's worth, they are not verified good, I just can't imagine all 6 are bad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vaughan Posted May 18, 2022 Report Share Posted May 18, 2022 As best as I can tell from google they are smart coils and so don't need an igniter, so next thing to check is your wiring. With the key on do you have power and ground on the appropriate pins on the coil? with everything powered off and unplugged do you have continuity from the correct Ign pin from the ECU to the correct signal pin on the coil? 1 hour ago, DualMonocles said: when i run the injector test, the volt meter will read a constant 3.5ish volts on the signal wire. do you mean ignition test here? 1 hour ago, DualMonocles said: Now I know the test should be pulsing the voltage to the signal wire, and the reading may not be accurate on a meter, so I'm not sure if the reading means anything. The ignition signal should be a square pulse of length defined by dwell time table and should be about 6v when on and ground when off. Multimeter's have a lot of filtering and so tend to average pulses out into a steady voltage reading. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DualMonocles Posted May 18, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2022 "With the key on do you have power and ground on the appropriate pins on the coil? with everything powered off and unplugged do you have continuity from the correct Ign pin from the ECU to the correct signal pin on the coil?" I believe yes, but for the sake of accuracy, i will verify all of these in the morning. "do you mean ignition test here?" Yes, my mistake "The ignition signal should be a square pulse of length defined by dwell time table and should be about 6v when on and ground when off. Multimeter's have a lot of filtering and so tend to average pulses out into a steady voltage reading." Is this to say I should be reading 6v if it's functioning correctly? Or is the meter averaging 0v and 6v to display 3ish volts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vaughan Posted May 18, 2022 Report Share Posted May 18, 2022 16 hours ago, DualMonocles said: Is this to say I should be reading 6v if it's functioning correctly? Or is the meter averaging 0v and 6v to display 3ish volts? Given the test pulse is 5ms at 10Hz it will be on 1/20th of the time so an actual average would be closer to 0.3V assuming the multimeter did just average the voltage over the 0.1s. But more what I'm saying is you can't really check that kind of signal with a multimeter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaptainballistik Posted May 18, 2022 Report Share Posted May 18, 2022 17 hours ago, DualMonocles said: Yes to the coil with plug outside of engine, (with plug physically grounded to engine) The oem Diamond fk0140. For what it's worth, they are not verified good, I just can't imagine all 6 are bad If you are running the spark test, you can "hear" them... At least on the EJ. Obviously with no motor running I've seen the coils go "bad" So I would try multiple cylinders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DualMonocles Posted May 18, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2022 I've ordered new coils, going to throw them in and test again when they arrive. All the wiring seems to check out, guess we'll see! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted May 18, 2022 Report Share Posted May 18, 2022 A cheap LED test light is a good way to check the signal also. Connect lead to ground and probe to ign signal wire, you will see a very short flash when spark is commanded. Needs to be an LED test light, standard bulb type are too slow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DualMonocles Posted May 29, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2022 Just wanted to thank everybody for the input, car runs now! Turns out the 14v source I tapped into must have been weak. Ran it from somewhere else and now everything fires up smooth! Vaughan and kaptainballistik 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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