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Canlambda not communicating


INSW20

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6 minutes ago, Electredge said:

I assume the CAN lambda is wired into CAN Bus 1, is the BTI on the same bus? where do you have resistors placed? 

Correct, both on can1.  BTI is showing data on its screen without issue.  Resistor is in the back of the gauge.  I have an almost identical setup on another car only with the Link CanGauge instead of the BTI and it works flawlessly, for whatever that's worth.

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40 minutes ago, INSW20 said:

Correct, both on can1.  BTI is showing data on its screen without issue.  Resistor is in the back of the gauge.  I have an almost identical setup on another car only with the Link CanGauge instead of the BTI and it works flawlessly, for whatever that's worth.

do you have a resistor at the CAN Lambda controller? where is the CAN lambda controller located? engine bay? 

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17 minutes ago, Electredge said:

do you have a resistor at the CAN Lambda controller? where is the CAN lambda controller located? engine bay? 

No resistor at the controller.  I thought the ECU had a built-in resistor, and the gauge should take care of the 2nd resistor.  Controller is located next to the ECU in the trunk (MR2 chassis).

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I dont see anything wrong with the general ECU setup.  

Is the gauge getting power from the 4pin DTM or is it getting power from separate wires? 

If you unplug the gauge and plug the lambda into the gauge connection then go to >CAN  setup>CAN Devices>find devices, does it find the lambda?

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1 hour ago, Electredge said:

unplug the controller and measure ohms between the 2 can wires, what do you get? 

I'm working on this one remotely, but sounds like they're reading 42ohms across hi and low.  The gauge "should" have come with a single resistor, but crazier things have happened.

36 minutes ago, Adamw said:

I dont see anything wrong with the general ECU setup.  

Is the gauge getting power from the 4pin DTM or is it getting power from separate wires? 

If you unplug the gauge and plug the lambda into the gauge connection then go to >CAN  setup>CAN Devices>find devices, does it find the lambda?

It's getting power through a CANTEE that it shares with the gauge.  Power is from switched fuse from the fuse/relay box in the engine bay.  Is there a resistor that's easily accessible in the ECU we can remove to test?  The gauge is apparently a big pain to access to remove the extra resistor.

The way the harness was built I don't think the BTI and CanLambda will plug in to the same connector.

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No the internal ecu termination resistor is difficult to remove - but I have never see a lack of a resistor or extra resistors cause no coms so I wouldnt worry about that too much.  Termination issues you would tend to see stuff or bit errors and more traffic due to resends if really bad but it would be rare to have no coms at all.  So way more likely some other issue.  

7 minutes ago, INSW20 said:

The way the harness was built I don't think the BTI and CanLambda will plug in to the same connector.

The CANTEE has two DTM4 output plugs.  Unplug the one that is going to the gauge since we know that one is working and plug the CAN lambda directly into that same plug.  

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1 hour ago, Adamw said:

No the internal ecu termination resistor is difficult to remove - but I have never see a lack of a resistor or extra resistors cause no coms so I wouldnt worry about that too much.  Termination issues you would tend to see stuff or bit errors and more traffic due to resends if really bad but it would be rare to have no coms at all.  So way more likely some other issue.  

The CANTEE has two DTM4 output plugs.  Unplug the one that is going to the gauge since we know that one is working and plug the CAN lambda directly into that same plug.  

Due to the way the gauge connectors were configured, the ECU and lambda are both on the output plugs, and the gauge is on the typical “input” plug. But we’ll try swapping output plugs between the ECU and the lambda and see if the gauge still works to verify operation on both output leads.

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I would also unplug the lambda and confirm voltages at the DTM4 that it connects to.

With your multimeter measuring between ground and one of the 4 DTM pins you should see the following voltages if wiring is good:

  1. Pin 1 = ~12V.
  2. Pin 2 = 0V.
  3. Pin 3 = ~1.0-2.0V.
  4. Pin 4 = ~3.0-4.0V.

 

 

JOId08l.png

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  • 1 month later...
On 10/5/2022 at 11:21 PM, Adamw said:

I would also unplug the lambda and confirm voltages at the DTM4 that it connects to.

With your multimeter measuring between ground and one of the 4 DTM pins you should see the following voltages if wiring is good:

  1. Pin 1 = ~12V.
  2. Pin 2 = 0V.
  3. Pin 3 = ~1.0-2.0V.
  4. Pin 4 = ~3.0-4.0V.

 

 

JOId08l.png

To close the loop on this, that was the problem.  Using a non-Link (BTI) harness with a BTI gauge and they're pinned differently.  Changed pin locations and now it's working flawlessly.

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