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RealDash and the like


Steve Bull

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Ok then, ive got a G4x extreme  in the car with a Haltech ic-7 dash. The dash which Im fairly happy with, admittedly not as good as the Aim but at nearly 1/2 the price, its good. 

Second project is the bike, which we are slowly spending on. That is also getting a G4x xtreme, was going to go for the Fury but the bikes got load of inputs for its basic operation ( Side stand, clutch and all that) and it has got 8 injectors which wouldn't have been an issue, less so as we're going down to 4. But i dint want to think if only i had 2 more.

The first thing was a decent wideband just to check what's going on, or  not, before we start the tear down, just to make 100% sure where the issues lye. One of the reasons for not getting the fury, i wanted  to see first.

Now im now thinking of rather than getting another dash putting the haltech dash on the bike. I was considering putting a Windows or android in the car before i got the Haltech. But the Haltech won at the time as some of the coms between the ecu & dash and boot up time wasnt good. However these things seem to have been sorted out.

One thing i wasnt that happy with was the boot up time, some coming in at over 1 minute. Which if it had been on the bike i could have done 3-4 miles and not even been aware Ive been speeding. Which i dont think would be a good get out of jail excuses saying my speedo was booting up. I honestly didnt know i was going that fast. All i saw was that spinning round hour glass thing.

So can anyone give me some advice on, if the windows/Android tablet thing, with something like Realdash and the G4x xtreme will it work well.

 

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I put a cheap android headunit in one of our test cars and it comes alive with realdash opening almost instantly.  Only using the free version of realdash so the splash screen takes longer than the power up cycle.  I assume they just go into some kind of standby mode.  

Realdash is quite capable and would be fine for a fulltime display (can even do navigation, music controls, laptiming, telemetry, etc) if you put the effort in to setting it up.  It will be a much bigger learning curve than a commercially offered automotive dash and will need a significant time investment though.

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  • 5 months later...

I decided to get another haltech Dash   for the bike along with a G4x Xtreme. The only issues im having is the gear displayed. 1 to 6 is fine but on the car when reverse is selected the ECU sends 11 on the CAN which the Dash shows "11". Similarly with neutral the dash send 10 on the CAN and the dash displays "10". Ive been told that in the haltech dash need to have 0 for neutral and -1 for reverse sent as a CAN message. Is there any way that the Link ecu CAN value for reverse and neutral be changed. 

 

If not ill have to use a bit of smoke and mirrors on the spare PDM logic procedure to change the value and then substitute it for the CAN value sent to the dash.

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It should really be up to Haltech to correct the enumerations that the dash is using.  

However, you could use the math block below to generate the -1=R, 0=N, 1=1 etc, then swap your transmit stream to a user stream, load the configurable dash stream and swap the gear parameter with math block 1.  There is probably a less cumbersome equation to do the same thing but this is what I came up with and it works:

0lZXkWa.png

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Thanks for that.

For some reason i couldn't enter a formula as long as the one above. So i had to do it in two parts.  Checked the values going through the gears and it seem to work.

Then i changed the the CAN to channel transmit user stream 1. Then on then loaded generic dash stream  onto stream 1. That allowed me to change the frame 3, 1st parameter gear (status) and substitute that with the maths channel. It works, now we have "R" and "N". 

Changing the CAN stream should now allow me to send what i want to the dash just by altering/substituting/swapping the CAN parameter on frame. 

link gear.png

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