the_mechanic Posted March 28, 2023 Report Share Posted March 28, 2023 Hey guys I got a link gx4 ecu just installed on my rx7 I got the unlock code and everything now I am trying to work on the basic tuning so I can get the car started but i got stuck when it was time to enter the injector size.....so what should I do can anyone help me with the process because I really want to get my car started Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 28, 2023 Report Share Posted March 28, 2023 Is it one of our FD plug-in ECU's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_mechanic Posted March 29, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2023 Yes it is a plug _ in ecu The car will only crank and nothing and not start......idk if its because i didnt enter the injector cc but I wasnt getting the option to do so Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 30, 2023 Report Share Posted March 30, 2023 Did you follow all the pre-start checks in the manual - check sensor calibrations, base timing etc? Has the ecu been unlocked? What size injectors do you have? Are you getting realistic RPM displayed in PC Link when cranking? Can you attach a copy of your map and a short log of it cranking. Please keep all your related discussion and questions in this one thread please, asking the same stuff several times in each forum is only going to make it more difficult to follow instructions etc. I have deleted all your other posts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_mechanic Posted March 30, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2023 Yes the ecu has been unlocked and yes I followed all the pre-start steps the base timing i think it has been checked in am not sure what it should look like.i am running 1700 cc injectors I was not able to input the injector sizes because I am not sure where to do so.....i am basically looking for someone who can help me get the job done so i was wondering if there is somewhere else I can contact u other than d is forum so I could get more real time answers But basically I just took the ecu outta the box plugged it in unlocked it and I thought that was all I had to do to get the car started I am not sure how to check the rpm display link while cranking. Also would u be able to get my car started if I just have u remote access to my ecu and if it could be done that way would Dr be a price? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 30, 2023 Report Share Posted March 30, 2023 For the injector size you adjust the master fuel value, a smaller value gives less fuel, a larger value gives more. For 1700cc primary injectors I would set the master fuel value to about 7ms as a starting point. Do a short log of it cranking and attach it here. How to do a log: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_mechanic Posted March 30, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2023 Ok I will try to get the log done as soon as I get to work Where exactly do I go to adjust the master fuel value Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_mechanic Posted March 30, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2023 Hey Adams I got the car started by adjusting the master fuel value to 3ms it was originally 20 ms I also came across a room where you gave a guy adjustments in followed those Idk if doing that was a good or a bad idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_mechanic Posted March 30, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2023 PC Datalog - 2023-03-30 11;05;19 am Idle Log.llgx Here is the log you requested Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 30, 2023 Report Share Posted March 30, 2023 In your log you've got an engine protection limiter kicking in at 2000RPM because the oil metering pump is not following the commanded position. Do you still have the pump fitted? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_mechanic Posted March 30, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2023 Yes I still have the pumps fitted on so do you have an idea as to why the pumps isn't following the commanded position also is there anything else u noticed wrong in my log? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_mechanic Posted March 31, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2023 Hey adamw you still haven't gotten back to me with a reply as yet I am not saying you forgot but ik you are a busy guy so I am just reminding you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 31, 2023 Report Share Posted March 31, 2023 I would start by confirming that it actually works. Go to the CL Stepper Ctrl function as below and set the calibration to "fully open", check if the AN Volt 3 voltage changes, then try "fully closed" while watching AN Volt 3 voltage. It should move through a range of about 1.0V to 4.6V. If it doesnt move then you have a wiring issue or the pump/motor is dead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_mechanic Posted March 31, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2023 Ok thanks I will check those out when I get to work and give you and update so lets just say i check those stuff and its working what should be done after is there anything else in the log you saw that I need to check out...ohh and Idk if I mentioned before but that's the first time the car started since 2016 so Idk if that has anything to do with the situation of the oil metering pump not working as it should Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted April 1, 2023 Report Share Posted April 1, 2023 The only other issue I have spotted is your coolant temp is showing -40°C, which likely means the sensor is unplugged or dead, or there is a bad connection to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_mechanic Posted April 1, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2023 Ok well I will get that checked out I also have an updated log to send to you...also when we started the car the the fans came on and never went off so would that be because of the tune Also I would l am trying to hook up my AFR to one of the auxiliary outputs on the ecu but I dont know which wire it goes to ...also I would like to know what would be the best boost controller to run with your ecu because I was told that I can no longer use a manual boost controller because now its the tuner who sets boost so I have to wire up a boost controller to the cars original boost controller set up so it can be monitored by the tuner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koracing Posted April 1, 2023 Report Share Posted April 1, 2023 You can run a manual boost controller - I personally always have one with me on any tuning trips just in case there's some issue with the electronic boost control setup on a vehicle as it has allowed me to complete dyno tuning when necessary without spending too much time on a rented dyno, and then we just revisit the electronic boost control later. For a good solenoid the Link one is a genuine MAC solenoid setup and is a good choice. As long as you source a genuine MAC solenoid (usually 3 port) you should have no problems controlling boost with the ecu. Be careful, there are a LOT of counterfeit MAC solenoids out there. It does require a 12v switched power source and one wire run to an auxiliary output on the ecu (Aux 1 through 8 work well for this). For your wideband input you want to run the analog output wire from your wideband and the ground reference wire from the wideband to one of the AN Volt inputs on the expansion or any unused AN Volt inputs on the main ecu header and the ground reference output wire from your AFR gauge/controller to the expansion ground or the same ground point as the ecu. If your AFR gauge does not have a ground reference, it's highly recommended to upgrade to a newer wideband setup (like the Link CAN Lambda, or AEM X-series, or 14point7 Spartan). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_mechanic Posted April 2, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2023 Ok thanks i will get to that asap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_mechanic Posted April 5, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2023 This is one of 2 logs I did while setting up the ecu could you please take are look at it to see if everything is all good so I could begin tuning because my idle will sometime go low and high so I am not sure if I did everything correct with the ecu set up TriggerScopeLog.llgx This is the second one so could you please review it to let me know if the ecu set up is complete so I could begin tuning PC Datalog - 2023-03-31 5;17;42 pm reving.llgx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koracing Posted April 6, 2023 Report Share Posted April 6, 2023 Can you post a copy of your tune? The trigger scope looks clean, but I have no idea about some of the stuff I'm seeing in your log. Your idle control is not activating due to MAP threshold. Your coolant temp is pegged at full cold and never changes (like it's not connected). Your hitting a rev limiter at 4000ish rpm. You have no lambda signal. Your fuel pressure is off or seems to be off - but that would depend on the fuel model/strategy you're using whether or not that's really an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_mechanic Posted April 6, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2023 I have for cooling fans so that could be the reason for the coolant temperature being fully cold The issue with the idle control could it be a mechanical problem or with the tune Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koracing Posted April 6, 2023 Report Share Posted April 6, 2023 I doubt that your cooling fans are lowering the coolant temperature to -40°F when your air temp is close to 100°F unless you have a refrigerated cooling system. There are definitely some tune related issues with your idle (as in the ecu isn't entering idle control mode in your log), but it's hard to be 100% certain on the extent of possible issues without seeing a copy of the tune and how it is set up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_mechanic Posted April 6, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2023 Ok so I will get you a copy of the tune Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_mechanic Posted April 6, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2023 Also I forgot to mention that currently i am still running off the base map that came with the ecu from like I haven't done any tuning as I had to get the cars started first because for some reason the base map they sent with the ecu wasn't starting the cars i eventually got it started with the help of Adamw but haven't done any tuning as yet I just wanted to mention that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koracing Posted April 6, 2023 Report Share Posted April 6, 2023 Your post above is confusing "I am still running off the base map that came with the ecu" and "for some reason the base map they sent with the ecu wasn't starting the car". So it's the base map that link has in the software for the ecu and you reduced the master fuel to 3ms? You mentioned making changes you found in another thread? Attaching the tune or posting a link to the tune on dropbox, google drive, etc. is the best bet. Which exact version RX7 ecu do you have? Is it the grey connector or white connector on the Link? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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