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Strange problems with fuse on my R33


DjDecibel

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Hello, i own a '97 R33 GTS-T with RB25 engine,
it had a 23710 21U00 ecu replaced with a GTRLink (pcb rev V1.7)

the cars starts and runs but not fine, it is a lot rich of fuel and does a lot of black smoke from the exhaust.
also the power is not enough.

checking the fuses i found that the fuse number 8 (which should be the engine management fuse) keeps blowing..
and now here start my question:
is it normal as the ecu is not original or there's a short somewhere in the sensors or harness? or is it a normal thing?


Thank you!

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It sounds like you are going to have to investigate the wiring a bit to determine the cause of the blown fuse.  Fuse 8 supplies 12V to ECU pins 49/59 & 58, Our ecu doesnt have pin 109 connected.  There is not a lot of wiring between the ECCS relay and the ecu so I think it is less likely to be in this area.  Fuse 8 also feeds a supply out to the engine bay for the oxy probe, idle valve, boost solenoid and VTC solenoid if fitted, so I think it is probably more likely in this part of the loom. 

One test you can do to rule out a short in the ecu case or similar - Unplug the ecu, replace fuse 8, switch on Ign, connect pin 16 in the ecu loom plug to ground with a scrap piece of wire or similar, this will switch on the ECCE relay.  If your fuse blows with that test then look at the wiring after the ecu.  If the fuse no longer blows with ecu unplugged then I will try to come up with some further suggestions of what to check next.    

sg1MbWZ.png

 

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On 4/27/2023 at 4:18 AM, Adamw said:

It sounds like you are going to have to investigate the wiring a bit to determine the cause of the blown fuse.  Fuse 8 supplies 12V to ECU pins 49/59 & 58, Our ecu doesnt have pin 109 connected.  There is not a lot of wiring between the ECCS relay and the ecu so I think it is less likely to be in this area.  Fuse 8 also feeds a supply out to the engine bay for the oxy probe, idle valve, boost solenoid and VTC solenoid if fitted, so I think it is probably more likely in this part of the loom. 

One test you can do to rule out a short in the ecu case or similar - Unplug the ecu, replace fuse 8, switch on Ign, connect pin 16 in the ecu loom plug to ground with a scrap piece of wire or similar, this will switch on the ECCE relay.  If your fuse blows with that test then look at the wiring after the ecu.  If the fuse no longer blows with ecu unplugged then I will try to come up with some further suggestions of what to check next.    

sg1MbWZ.png

 

I did the testing you said.

removing the ecu and Grounding the pin16 the fuse does NOT blow

i then opened the ecu and I saw a burn diode

What can I do?

D6E42BF0-1557-4B5D-8AEA-975A5FCD68BF.jpeg

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That diode is only the flywheel diode for the idle valve, it is hugely overrated and when the engine is off it doesnt even have any current flowing through it - let alone enough current to make it explode like that.  The most likely scenario that could cause that would be reverse polarity = i.e the battery has been connected backwards at some stage or jumper leads backwards etc. I think also the fact you still have a short when you plug the ecu in now would suggest that big mosfet behind the diode is fried too.   

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