Varinn Posted June 8, 2023 Report Share Posted June 8, 2023 Finally getting started on the wire-in of my Link Fury G4+ ecu into a 1990 325i that I've engine swapped with a 1997 S52B32. Bought a few years ago and put off the project for too long. Current engine management is a modified MS41.1 Siemens to remove non-essential code. This is my first go at standalone management. When I ordered the Fury I didn't realize that ignition drivers were not the same as igniters, or that I'd need to put something in to take the place of my stock ECU function for this. I read from Haltech that the BMW coils do not have igniters built in. Should I be looking at adding an external igniter module like one from a 2JZ or Haltech or am I better off swapping coils to something different? I'm not looking at forced induction or higher than stock RPM's so I don't feel like I need any of the big power parts. Cost effectiveness for fixing this screwup is a top goal. I'm also curious if anyone has a base map for a nearly stock S52B32 (m50 manifold) I could insert to get it up and running. I'm aware I'd need to adjust sensors/pinouts etc, just looking for a head start on the fuel/ignition tables that would hopefully be closer than the M50TUB25 map from the P&P Link ecu. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted June 8, 2023 Report Share Posted June 8, 2023 The "R8" coils fit those engines quite well so would be a reasonably cost effective option. I cant say for sure whether the coil cover will fit on. Search 0221604800 (bosch) or 48728 (NGK) on something like rockauto, you should be able to get them for about 20-25USD each and those are both reliable coil brands. If you wanted to stick with the stock coils and use an external ignitor then the 2JZ ignitor isn't very good so avoid that one. The haltech ones are quite good but way too expensive. Most common would be 2 x 3 channel such as Bosch 0227100203 - avoid the generic unbranded ones, stick to Bremi, Bosch, Huco (Hitatchi). Try IGC8403 on rockauto. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Varinn Posted June 8, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2023 Thanks Adam, I'm going to look into these. Both options seem viable, the igniter is probably the more cost effective one but it looks like there's a few guys on these boards running the r8 coils with some minor modifications to fit them. I'll see if I can track down connector PN's and everything else needed to get a a full cost on each. I appreciate the heads up on the 2JZ ignitor as I had a friend guiding me down that path, and I agree that the Haltech unit is too damn costly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Varinn Posted June 18, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2023 On 6/8/2023 at 3:51 PM, Adamw said: The "R8" coils fit those engines quite well so would be a reasonably cost effective option. I cant say for sure whether the coil cover will fit on. Search 0221604800 (bosch) or 48728 (NGK) on something like rockauto, you should be able to get them for about 20-25USD each and those are both reliable coil brands. If you wanted to stick with the stock coils and use an external ignitor then the 2JZ ignitor isn't very good so avoid that one. The haltech ones are quite good but way too expensive. Most common would be 2 x 3 channel such as Bosch 0227100203 - avoid the generic unbranded ones, stick to Bremi, Bosch, Huco (Hitatchi). Try IGC8403 on rockauto. Got tied up with work for the last bit and made no progress on the harness, trying to get things ordered but struggling to find connectors for the ignitors. Any idea where to buy the connectors for the IGC8403 in North America? Looks like PN F02U.B00.252-01 (Bosch Jetronic 7 pole) but I can only find AU vendors Other questions I came across along the way - I'm thinking of using the GM 1 bar MAP sensor (039 code). How long can the tube connection be before I start to see issues on an N/A motor. I want to get it as close as I can, but nice to have a limit in mind. Unless you can suggest an M12x1.5 MAP in which case I could thread it directly into my intake manifold near the TB. - Should I plan to keep at least one narrow band o2 sensor in service even after the tuning is done or can I safely remove + delete them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koracing Posted June 18, 2023 Report Share Posted June 18, 2023 https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/products_id/4353 - this may be the connector you're looking for. Autometer 2277 is an M12x1.5 thread adapter that has male metric threads and female 1/8 NPT on the other side. You could then use an AEM stainless steel MAP sensor or Honeywell or similar thread in unit for MAP. No need for the narrow band sensor in my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.