two idle profiles

[loinseye]

i just picked up this toyota altezza and seems to be running fine besides some minor hiccups here and there. after cleaning the throttle body it started to run really well but i did notice a higher idle than before from 1000 to 1200 and also it starts to idle higher when i start moving to 1900 making gear changing a bit of an annoyance. was wondering if there was a way to get rid of that setting. new to the link platform thats why i couldnt find it. any help would be greatly appreciated. 

my altezza ecu.pclr

[Vaughan]

Take a PC Log of the issue and attach it here please

[loinseye]

log files is here. i another question would be is how would i go about adjusting my idle RPM as well.

log file idle issue.llg

[Vaughan]

Has the E-Throttle been removed and replaced with purely cable throttle? If so has any form of idle bypass solenoid been added?

[loinseye]

I’m not 100% sure as I am the 4th owner. I did notice a lot of the aps and tp sensors to be turned off. I traced the cable back to into the firewall so it could be a cable throttle with a solenoid somewhere but not sure for certain. If you wanted to change the idle RPM how would you go about it ? 

[Vaughan]

So the Altezza has a throttle cable to throttle body with the aps sensors on the throttle body end of the cable setup and it then has a motor for moving the throttle plate and two tps sensors on the throttle plate position. From factory if you turn off the motor control you still get some control of the throttle plate just from moving the cable as a kind of limp mode but you don't get control of the full throttle range.

That looks like a factory throttle body and I can't see anything that would say it has been modified and so you will most likely need to setup all of the E-Throttle stuff (have a look at the sample map that comes with PCLink as a comparison).

To control idle speed you need to control either air flow into the engine, ignition timing or a combination of the two. Most cable throttle vehicles use some form of air bypass solenoid and most E-Throttle vehicles just open or close the throttle body. In your case you won't have an air bypass solenoid and so you will need to regain control of the throttle plate. Using Ignition timing to control can be really effective especially when used in conjunction with air flow control but you need to be in the right ballpark of air flow to start with.

@Adamw might be able to offer further advice on your setup.

[loinseye]

32 minutes ago, Vaughan said:

So the Altezza has a throttle cable to throttle body with the aps sensors on the throttle body end of the cable setup and it then has a motor for moving the throttle plate and two tps sensors on the throttle plate position. From factory if you turn off the motor control you still get some control of the throttle plate just from moving the cable as a kind of limp mode but you don't get control of the full throttle range.

That looks like a factory throttle body and I can't see anything that would say it has been modified and so you will most likely need to setup all of the E-Throttle stuff (have a look at the sample map that comes with PCLink as a comparison).

To control idle speed you need to control either air flow into the engine, ignition timing or a combination of the two. Most cable throttle vehicles use some form of air bypass solenoid and most E-Throttle vehicles just open or close the throttle body. In your case you won't have an air bypass solenoid and so you will need to regain control of the throttle plate. Using Ignition timing to control can be really effective especially when used in conjunction with air flow control but you need to be in the right ballpark of air flow to start with.

@Adamw might be able to offer further advice on your setup.

Great help I’ll look into calibrating everything as if I got if brand new. Thanks Vaughan for the help I’ll look into why it increases rpm after moving. 

[loinseye]

So after turning on the e-throttle car went into limp mode. I do get readings from the aps and tps sub and main if any ideas would be great. 

[Vaughan]

You'll need to setup the AP and TP inputs as well and calibrate them, inputs are setup in the Analog folder

using File -> Compare and then selecting the altezza sample map will show all differences between the two

You'll also need to setup the E-Throttle relay in the Auxiliary outputs folder

[loinseye]

5 minutes ago, Vaughan said:

You'll need to setup the AP and TP inputs as well and calibrate them, inputs are setup in the Analog folder

using File -> Compare and then selecting the altezza sample map will show all differences between the two

You'll also need to setup the E-Throttle relay in the Auxiliary outputs folder

Awesome will do that thanks again. 

[Adamw]

Before you get too deep into setting it up, could you unplug the 4pin square plug on the throttle body, connect up a laptop, press the throttle pedal to the floor and report what voltages show on AN 3 and AN 6 in the runtimes screen.  Its possible that someone has fitted one of the "DBW delete" kits in place of the internal linkage.  We should be able to tell from what voltage is reported on AN 6 when the pedal is on the floor.  

[loinseye]

16 hours ago, Adamw said:

Before you get too deep into setting it up, could you unplug the 4pin square plug on the throttle body, connect up a laptop, press the throttle pedal to the floor and report what voltages show on AN 3 and AN 6 in the runtimes screen.  Its possible that someone has fitted one of the "DBW delete" kits in place of the internal linkage.  We should be able to tell from what voltage is reported on AN 6 when the pedal is on the floor.  

Sorry for the late reply. But first one is not compressed second is Floored after unplugging the grey plug

[Adamw]

Hmm, not as black and white as I was hoping to see, but Im pretty sure that probably does already have a DBW delete kit in it.  Looking at a map I have from a working throttle the TPS main moved about 3.45V from full closed to full open, yours shows about 3.2V.  From what I remember if they arent powered and dont have the delete kit, they only move less than half the normal range.  Perhaps you can throw a brick on the pedal and have a look if the blade is fully open or not.  

[loinseye]

19 hours ago, Adamw said:

Hmm, not as black and white as I was hoping to see, but Im pretty sure that probably does already have a DBW delete kit in it.  Looking at a map I have from a working throttle the TPS main moved about 3.45V from full closed to full open, yours shows about 3.2V.  From what I remember if they arent powered and dont have the delete kit, they only move less than half the normal range.  Perhaps you can throw a brick on the pedal and have a look if the blade is fully open or not.  

It’s as flat as it can be, took a picture but wouldn’t let me upload but it seems it has the DBW delete on. So can I get the E-throttle to work with the DBW delete? or should I take it out and try to dial it in like that?

[Adamw]

I believe there are a couple of different types, the most basic kits just have a washer type thing that fits on the cable pedal side and locks the cable barrel part direct to the throttle shaft.  With this type you cant use the E-throttle.  

There is another type which has a new quadrant gear that allows the e-throttle to still do idle control but the main movement comes from the pedal.

[loinseye]

6 hours ago, Adamw said:

I believe there are a couple of different types, the most basic kits just have a washer type thing that fits on the cable pedal side and locks the cable barrel part direct to the throttle shaft.  With this type you cant use the E-throttle.  

There is another type which has a new quadrant gear that allows the e-throttle to still do idle control but the main movement comes from the pedal.

Sounds good I appreciate the help thanks a bunch. I’ll most likely take it off to use the e throttle. Thanks again