SpAdam Posted May 10 Report Share Posted May 10 Looking at buying a new-in-box CAN Lambda from a private seller. Is there anything I need to look for in versions/generations, or are they relatively all the same? Part # CAN LAMBDA PCB REV V1.2 Serial 47389 Appreciate the input! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted May 11 Report Share Posted May 11 The V1.2 would be about 2 years old, the current version is V1.3. The main difference is 1.3 had some updates to the power supply to give it better immunity to electrical noise. With V1.2 occasionally if connected to a noisy power supply it could report false errors. Usually moving to a power source closer to the battery or fitting a capacitor was needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpAdam Posted May 13 Author Report Share Posted May 13 Just realizing I should have put this in the G4X section since I'm on an S2000X. Oops. Thanks for the detailed reply. Now I just need to decide if it's worth saving $100 or going for a later version. When I built my loom I wired the CAN bus to share power with the ecu & PLX wideband controller. Plan is to run the CAN Lambda on CAN2, it will be easy enough to rework the CAN bus wiring while I'm making a few changes to the ecu loom to suit the Link. Is it recommended to power the CAN Lambda directly from the the CAN2 3A power, or would it be better to power the bus from closer to the battery as you describe? Seems counterintuitive, I'd think having it on the same plane as the ecu would be the most stable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rossobianconero Posted May 13 Report Share Posted May 13 With the old v1.2, sometimes we couldn't even share the power source to the ecu, sometimes the can lambda work, sometimes it would not. Since the 1.3 we haven't seen that problem, but every car is different so could be just the different stock wiring on the cars not necessarily the can lambda. With the v1.2 we try everything, capacitors, etc. The only thing that actually fix it was a very good power source. Sometimes the one that normally should work... well it did not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpAdam Posted May 13 Author Report Share Posted May 13 Copy that, thanks. I’ll be passing on the 1.2 and just getting a newer one then. Not worth building in a potential headache. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rossobianconero Posted May 14 Report Share Posted May 14 9 hours ago, SpAdam said: Copy that, thanks. I’ll be passing on the 1.2 and just getting a newer one then. Not worth building in a potential headache. and that's exactly what we choice here to, no more v1.2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mapper Posted May 16 Report Share Posted May 16 On 5/11/2024 at 11:40 AM, Adamw said: The V1.2 would be about 2 years old, the current version is V1.3. The main difference is 1.3 had some updates to the power supply to give it better immunity to electrical noise. With V1.2 occasionally if connected to a noisy power supply it could report false errors. Usually moving to a power source closer to the battery or fitting a capacitor was needed. So fitting capacitor on 1.3 is defenitively not needed anymore? We add one on all our installation up until now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rossobianconero Posted May 17 Report Share Posted May 17 7 hours ago, mapper said: So fitting capacitor on 1.3 is defenitively not needed anymore? We add one on all our installation up until now. We haven't use them, and we haven't encountered any problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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