Simon Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 Are you NZ based? If so fastest check will be for us to look both the serial link and ECU over on the bench. At least then we can confirm both are good and will know we are working with a fully functioning product. You would be looking at $150+gst to have it fully tested and any minor faults fixed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Kaijser Posted December 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 Yes i live in Hawkes Bay.Im down in Christchurch in a weeks time, so could pop it past.? Asked a guy about a base map, so might get one next week, so will then try it all with that, as still cant quite get it running properly.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 If you are in the area no problem to drop it in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Kaijser Posted December 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2014 Ok, might look at doing that then. Also, the sticker on the unit says its for a 7mgte..Does this actually matter.?Should it be updated to 4age or something.? (Firmware version or something)If so is it possible for me to do this.? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted December 4, 2014 Report Share Posted December 4, 2014 That just indicates the sub-board use. It happens that the triggering is a match across alot of the toyota range. So no need to change any thing ECU wise to work with your application. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Kaijser Posted December 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2014 ok. Another thing. Does the ecu trigger and fire the coil when the rotor passes the pickup, or after it passes does it wait till a certain point or degree.And is this changable.? As when i was trying to get it to run, no #1 was a quarter turn from the VR pickup.(As its a smallport dizzy) So wasnt getting spark out of #1. So that is why i changed the leads over, and ran #1 on the 4th post, which is directly opposite the pickup.. And got better spark, and fired a couple of times. But still not consistintly. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted December 5, 2014 Report Share Posted December 5, 2014 The rotor should be pointing at or just past the HT tower at TDC. So to check put motor at compression TDC#1 and make sure the rotor is just past or pointing at the tower for number 1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Kaijser Posted December 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2014 yes that sounds right, but im running a different dizzy, and the vr sensor/pickup is on the other side than what the original one is. So pointing at #1 is actually #4... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Kaijser Posted December 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2014 Also, should i get the TPS Setup menu on the laptop.?Ive read this in the manual, but i dont get it once ive powered on the link and connect on the laptop...? Any help with this.? THanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted December 8, 2014 Report Share Posted December 8, 2014 If you go to the Options menu and then select TPS setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Kaijser Posted December 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2014 Well thats the issue, that option isnt there once the link is connected..It disappears.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted December 9, 2014 Report Share Posted December 9, 2014 Do you see a TPS hi and  a TPS low figure in the utilities section? If so adjust these to get the TPS to span 10-100 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Kaijser Posted December 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2014 Yes i get both of those. Ok, should i have to run the TPS Setup though.?To change the  tps numbers on the side of the fuel map.? Or are they correct how they are. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Kaijser Posted December 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2014 As you can see in attached pic, no option for TPS Setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Kaijser Posted December 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 Ok,Had a little bit of help understanding some more of the fuel table, and ignition tables.Tidied them up  a bit, and then tried to run the car again..When cranking it doesnt start, but then when i stop cranking it has a surge of spark and fires.. Sometimes.Once it actually fired and started running,It idles nicley, but when reving past 3k it drops all spark (on the timing light) and backfires etc.I then noticed that the Igniter is insanely hot... I take it this is not normal.. So im thinking there is an issue with how the Igniter is wired, or something in the Link..Ig1 is wired to IGt.. And that seems to be correct everywhere i look.. What am i doing wrong.? Am i missing something... Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted December 21, 2014 Report Share Posted December 21, 2014 Make tripple sure you are not wired into ignition 2 output. Check the wire location at the actual header do not rely on the wire colour. Excessive dwell or the wrong spark edge (wired to ign2) Â is what will cause the igniter to get hot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Kaijser Posted December 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2014 Ok, checked and it is on ign 1, ign 2 gives it spark when not cranking.. Ok, but the v4 doesnt have dwell adjustment does it.??? Is there anything i can do to stop it from getting hot.? And or does it matter.? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Kaijser Posted December 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2014 Also the tacho (which is driven of the igniter) is very erratic..It doesnt sit nicely, it floats around a bit.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted December 22, 2014 Report Share Posted December 22, 2014 I think from memory the V4 has either high or lowish. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Kaijser Posted December 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2014 Ok...And is this changable.???? As it must be to high for the standard igniter.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Kaijser Posted January 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2015 Hi All, Happy new Year.!! Been trying again with the link etc, and still cant get it to rev higher than 4k ish..This seems to be beacuse the igniter is getting really hot and cutting all spark so it doesnt explode. Also tried an igniter off a ae101 silvertop, this helped a little to start off with, but after a minute it did the same thing and was getting really hot aswell.. To me it just seems to be that the link is giving to higher dwell to the igniter..Can this be changed at all Simon.???Or is that what the upgrade to v5 is for... Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted January 14, 2015 Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 V5 would give the option to change the dwell. No way to do it in V4. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Kaijser Posted January 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 Hi Simon. Tried today with a misibushi igniter, (as people say they have luck with these) and i still have the same issue. It doesnt spark when cranking, but when i stop there is a surge of spark into the dizzy. Like the coil is holding it till the engine stops cranking.Any idea what would be causing this?? Still getting rpm reading, and have set the  priority to sync, and have tried cyl with no difference.. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Kaijser Posted February 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2015 Im now wondering if this Link has issues... I had it running saturday night with the Mitsi igninter, and it ran resonably well. But then tried it today, and it does the same thing as before, sparks after cranking not during... Is the SUB24NEW maybe got the wrong trig setup or something for my application? (4age) Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted February 2, 2015 Report Share Posted February 2, 2015 As long as you have a distributor or CAS with 24 teeth on trigger 1 and a single tooth on trigger 2 it is a match. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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