jonnyenglish Posted April 26, 2018 Report Share Posted April 26, 2018 Hi Guys, I have the Link G4+ ecu specifically for the mini cooper s.... I havent yet fitted my ECU but when i do i would like to install a wideband sensor at the same time so that i can get it tuned. Which one would you recommend (was looking at this https://shopbhp.com/products/bosch-lsu-4-9-wideband-sensor-plug-for-link-ecus-long-90cm or this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3844-Innovate-MTX-L-Air-Fuel-Ratio-Wideband-Gauge-Kit-AFR-w-O-Sensor-LSU-4-9-/232726626839, and what additional looms will I require if any? Secondly, how do i got about wiring the the sensor to the ECU i.e. what wire goes where. really would like to get this setup asap if possible! Thanks for your help, Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patches Posted April 26, 2018 Report Share Posted April 26, 2018 Hi Jon, I wouldn't recommend the innovate mtx-l, I had one myself and it just gave up one day. Seems to be a really common overheating fault, I found a lot of online posts about it. Also the first option is only a sensor, I'm 90% sure you will need a controller as well to connect to the ECU. I could be wrong here, someone from Link can correct me. I went with the Link CAN Lambda myself and its been great. It uses CAN so wont take up an input you could use for something else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Posted April 26, 2018 Report Share Posted April 26, 2018 I use the MTX-L with the MiniLink G4+ on my 2003 R53. RED wire to switched 12V BLACK & WHITE wires to GND YELLOW to Pin 9 (AN Volt 7) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClintBHP Posted April 26, 2018 Report Share Posted April 26, 2018 I would not mess about with analogue inputs anymore, use a CAN based device like the CANLambda that way there is only digital communication from the controller to the ECU and no chance of any discrepancy of calibration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Narvarr Posted April 27, 2018 Report Share Posted April 27, 2018 11 hours ago, Alan said: I use the MTX-L with the MiniLink G4+ on my 2003 R53. RED wire to switched 12V BLACK & WHITE wires to GND YELLOW to Pin 9 (AN Volt 7) And make sure to ground the controller at the same grounding point as the ECU. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonnyenglish Posted April 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2018 Tis annoying because the can lambda is so expensive in comparison. would love it but its double the price. also the fact that it is can how does it get wired in? my other concern is my obd port doesn't work, and im not sure if this is down to dodgy can connections or not.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1320MINI Posted April 28, 2018 Report Share Posted April 28, 2018 I would use Link CAN Lambda or AEM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted April 29, 2018 Report Share Posted April 29, 2018 The OBD port is not wired for CAN from factory so you would have to manually wire this up if you want the OBD function. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lutz Posted September 2, 2021 Report Share Posted September 2, 2021 Hello Alan, ....coming back to Your 3 yrs old advice on how to connect the gauge/controller cables of the MTX-L device : what´s about the BROWN cable ( cable No.5 ) ? Did You reconnect it to the cable of the original O2 - sensor ? And did You You completely remove or disconnect the 2nd O2-sensor ( means the post-CAT ) ?? Would You pls. share such details ?? Thanks in advance_Lutz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Posted September 2, 2021 Report Share Posted September 2, 2021 Lutz, I removed both the OEM narrow-band O2 sensors. The wideband O2 sensor replaces the pre-cat narrow-band O2 sensor, and a plug replaces the post-cat narrow-band O2 sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lutz Posted September 3, 2021 Report Share Posted September 3, 2021 Thanks Alan ...for swift replay ! And sorry for still bothering .... when You have removed both original O2 sensors - how did You handle both "lost" sensor connectors incl. their cables ? Did You just leave them in place ? If so - do such signalless inputs to ECU not create error/failures ? Looking to G4X pin manual there is pin position 9 for sensor No.1 ( as You have informed ...) and pin position No.43 ... for O2 sensor No.2 ( postCat ) ... Can it just stay as it is ( with the lost signal from postCat sensor No.2 ?? Thanks again ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Posted September 3, 2021 Report Share Posted September 3, 2021 I cut and capped the cables at a convenient spot, and unassigned the inputs in the MiniLink. Latest tune here:https://forums.linkecu.com/topic/9439-2003-mini-cooper-s-gts-race-car/?do=findComment&comment=94397 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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