ayjayef Posted August 31, 2018 Report Share Posted August 31, 2018 I need to extend the Bosch LSU 4.9 wiring to reach the Link Fury. Is there any reason I can't just remove the Bosch connector (ie: nothing "clever" in the plug?) and then use my own 6 pin plug/sockets. (I searched a lot of posts before posting but didn't find anything) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted August 31, 2018 Report Share Posted August 31, 2018 You cant remove the connector off the sensor, it has a laser trimmed calibration resistor inside that is unique to the sensor. You could extend the ECU side of the wiring, or something like one of these: http://dtec.net.au/Lambda Extension Cable - LSU4.9.htm https://www.ebay.com/itm/LSU4-9-WBO2-Wideband-Sensor-Extension-Cable-5ft-fiberglass-loom-/262585943294 ayjayef 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ayjayef Posted August 31, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2018 Thanks Adam, I had a feeling/distant memory there was something else going on in the connector but couldn't find it. So just extend the wires from the B plug on the ECU and add one of these to the end of it would be okay? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted August 31, 2018 Report Share Posted August 31, 2018 Yes this would be the best option ayjayef 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ayjayef Posted September 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2018 Sourced 2 of those above sockets and a plug. Used one of the sockets at the ECU and made an extension lead to get to the sensor. All looks good and buzzes-out well. Should I see heater temperature and Lambda in PCLink without the engine running? Internal Lambda 1 - Sensor Control = ON, Run When Stalled = Yes Lambda 1 Error - OK Lambda 1 Status - Calibration Lambda 1 Temp (C) - 0-2 It stays like that for 20 seconds then changes to: Lambda 1 Error - 16 Heated Too Long Lambda 1 Status - Diagnostics Lambda 1 Temp (C) - 0-2 It makes sense that after some time of not getting to temperature it would turn the heating off but was expecting that I would see some heating in that first 20 seconds with the ignition on. Is there a way of testing this before engine start? Log 2018-09-8 3;05;17 pm.llg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ducie54 Posted September 8, 2018 Report Share Posted September 8, 2018 I had a similar issue when the voltage to the lambda sensor was too low. Check it's getting 12volts. ayjayef 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ayjayef Posted September 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2018 Nice tip Ducie54. I was pulling the 12v+ from a spare "Power supply to ECU (from Battery)" in the factory loom. The heavy gauge wire showed a good 12v source when ignition was on but as you suggested, under wideband heater load it dropped voltage. Wired it directly into the fusebox and it works a treat. Heats to temperature in 5 seconds odd, giving believable AFR changes with a bit of butane blown past the sensor. I'm a bit surprised that the Link status Lambda 1 Error = OK even if the voltage is low. I tested with the 12v disconnected and it will still show "OK" as the status which is a bit misleading. Good to know the symptoms and how to troubleshoot em. Thanks for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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