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Greg W

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Everything posted by Greg W

  1. Greg W

    Wastegate issues

    +1 on the merge angle Had a bike come here with same problem, it would actually make 10 psi with the wastegate removed , dragging air into the turbo rather than letting exhaust out If you dont want to replace the housing i would cut the pipe off the housing and remake in same position with an angle cut outlet to compliment flow
  2. Try removing a couple of degrees timing at cranking rpm
  3. Are plugs in cranking trying to fire or is that turned off ? If we have had problems like that on the Suzukis and Kawasaki, they were so small not to notice Upgrade cable size ??
  4. Greg W


    Yes 4 bikes running these with either Link or Vipec
  5. Greg W


    Looks like the same hall effect sensor we have on the later gsxr Suzuki's
  6. We use the link on turbo bikes, dual injectors , big cams , low compression , ITB, Using MAP/BAP X over base setting with TPS/rpm fuel table , staged secondary injectors and MAP based secondary staging table would this do what your wanting ?
  7. I would add an extra condition so you dont bump the shift at the wrong time (like key on not running) and bend the shift fork , something like rpm or speed related
  8. Greg W

    G4+ mount plate wanted

    Done Thanks Brad
  9. Greg W

    G4+ mount plate wanted

    Northern Victoria Aussie I dont mind shipping if you dont , it will fit in a small flat rate box
  10. Header says it all, needing a mount plate for a Fury, and pretty sure all the larger body G4+ ecu will be similar Mounting the Fury under the gauges on a motorcycle 60 deg from fully upside down , not easy to mount without the original piece which i dont have
  11. I brought 1 about 18 months ago and many months later got it out to test, DOA Pulled the covers off to see if it was anything obvious, nothing to see there The interface box is just an adaptor between there sensor connectors and the DB9 , you could supply direct to the dash Adam your video gives me hope to try again if i needed a basic display For now i replaced it with a Link Dash2
  12. Serial 9141 PCB rev 1.2 Be nice if it is , the current V88 were using on the US based LSR bike is a waterproof version and we were about to fit an AIM MXL using serial
  13. Adam do the upgraded ecu's have CAN printed on the serial number tag ? A recently removed the mounting plate from my spare V88 and it has that on the tag
  14. Greg W

    Dash it

    Thanks Adam Looked all through the forum and neglected the help file
  15. Greg W

    Dash it

    Another dash setup help needed guys, can i hear the groans from here Fury with AIM MXL pro 5 on connector B CAN2 Aim has Link G4 config Gone over the other dash and can related threads and used the generic dash config, may have the transmit rate too low at 1 hz (just looking to the latest post below) pics of the AIM and fury screens , welcome suggestions
  16. We had an alternator fault on one of the Salt racebikes this year , loosing voltage over the whole run and ride back to the pits it shut off and log cutout at 6.8v at the ecu
  17. I fitted one of these last week, found a large offset comparing the AEM gauge to Atom it was on , corrected the offset in the calibrations (cal 4 for me ) Much prefer the non gauge controller with signal gnd
  18. Early 14 with the 330 injectors ? , too small for a turbo , you will probably run out of injector before 250hp good option is H2 injectors, 650cc at 50 psi and guys are taking them out to replace with 1150's What fuel pump and regulator ? Stock coils will not work with the Link without a coil driver or coils with internal ignitors , the file below is setup for smart coils , LS2 (D585) coils with short leeds, You will need to calibrate trigger 2 base timing , Shouldn't loose a heap of oil at once if you remove the cover, or get a sacrificial cover and drill it with something like 25mm to get a good window at the timing mark and stay mostly dry file below should get you going once base timing is set , its from my busa done in traditional fuel mode , with the H2 base timing , and 240cc primary injectors (i switched of the staged injectors )so it may be a little rich initially and fuel maps will be way off once you start making a few psi boost , play with the master fuel or master fuel % trim once started to get it running smooth you will need to setup and test all your AN inputs and outputs etc before starting zx 14 starter.pclr
  19. Havent forgotten you one of the files i was going to reference is not opening on my current Vipec or G4+ versions and i will run it through an ecu to update it and adapt a few things to suit your setup EG single injectors instead of my staged Also what coil driver are you planning , if your looking at smart Coil on plug i can leave the R35 coil setup in the mix You will need to access the timing to setup properly , can you remove the radiator and give it an alternate coolant supply short term
  20. Couple of H2's on here and another local to me with turbo ZX10 all with Link G4+ I am set to 245 deg , so is the zx10, Andys is similar but -360 from there Thought the 14 has the same inspection hole in the alternator cover to check timing with , need an adjustable timing light though . If no one comes up with more specific maps for the 14 i can send you something that will likely need a lot of tweaking , but should get you running
  21. Greg W

    Possible trigger issue?

    When i have been chasing my tail and getting nowhere like this i do a quick sanity check to see if its spark or fuel related Dont laugh ,. but i disconnect the injectors (or turn them off ) and use fly spray in the inlet (at the throttlebody not before the intercooler etc )while cranking , it has enough hydrocarbon to run a motor without knocking bad like ether based starting fluids
  22. Are you sure your switched 12v is actually switched
  23. If you are reading absolute on both fuel pressure and map yes
  24. OEM pink wire is pull up resistored 5v same as diagram in Adams link , the diagram differs from OEM in the N circuit , its not supplied from the resistored wire, but from the N light and start solenoid N wire would read 12v, its coming from the gauge light and start solenoid good diagram here https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwiTuP7qoLbhAhXUR30KHShfANYQjRx6BAgBEAU&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.hayabusa.org%2Fforum%2Fthreads%2Fhow-does-the-gear-sensor-work.101674%2F&psig=AOvVaw0kq8sY_fHJc9DY01ReCZeB&ust=1554461055687227
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