Grant Baker

Probably the best option!

That's odd... It's been in the last few versions as far as I'm aware??

It is a K Series yes, fitted to an MG ZT, with the sensor in the top face of the gearbox, not the rear face. OEM wiring diagrams show both Crank and Cam sensors to have a 12v feed... It's the only MG/Rover to use Hall Sensors for crank AND cam. I'll check the wiring done by the sparky on Monday. Out of interest, do you tend to see these more as rising edge or falling edge? Thanks again!

Sure, I realise that. But just checking 12v sensor is ok, rather than 5v. If so, I can look at the wiring properly.

Hi I assume there is no problem with using a 12v Hall sensor? I'm just finishing an MG ZT Turbo (Rover sensors) and the crank and cam sensors are 3 wires with the OEM wiring diagram showing 12v, signal, earth. I'm getting no signal from the sensors though... Tried with and without pullup. Crank oscilloscope in PC Link shows a flat line and no signal at all. The pattern is a Rover 1L6 style. Any ideas?

And also switch to ignition cut if you want it "different".

There are some 3 and 4 bar GM sensors around that are not "GM"... The 4 bar non genuine one works well and I do have the calibration information for that one at work. The 3 bar non genuine one also works well but I don't recall if I have the calibration details for it. Will look.

Hi I'm trying to produce a GP PWM output that does the following based on a single DI Input: When DI is on, output of the GP PWM to be 75% for 0.4s, then return to 50% When DI is switched off, the output of the GP PWM to be 25% for 0.4s, then return to 50%. So default state of PWM is 50%. It's actually being transmitted via CAN to a JTI Mini Expansion Unit and the MEU is controlling a DC Motor, which is an Exhaust noise regulator. I've been thinking of setting the GP PWM table to have DI State vs Timer 1 and then the output when DI1 "On" from 0-0.4S to be 75%, then 0.5S to 1S to be 50%. And then DI1 "off" from 0-0.4S to be 25%, then 0.5S to 1S to be 50%What would the PWM change to when the timer is stopped though?? Also, what would "reset" the timer as if it's reset when on, it won't also reset and allow 25% for 0.4S... You can reset on "change of state", but you have to specify which change rather than "any" change. Any guidance would be appreciated.

Thanks, I drilled a sensor today and tried it before and after. No difference at all when using a 10-8mm stud and 8mm hole, or using an M10 bolt and drilled sensor. Same knock levels, same background noise etc etc.

Hey, Anybody know of a Bosch Style "donut" Knock Sensor with a 10mm hole in it rather than 8mm? Currently I'm having some step down studs made, but would love to do it with a simple sensor change instead!

Will check first thing tomorrow. Have had it on another ECU a few years ago. Different laptop. This ECU has done it since first install. Had it back recently for a tweak and updated firmware while it was in just in case, but made no difference. Thank you.

Yes. That’s correct

Hi Guys, EVO 4-8 Plugin.... Every time a store is made we get the error "Store Failed". It hasn't failed - ECU has updated pcl in it, but it's really annoying! On latest firmware and software. 5.6.5.3389 Any ideas?

Will test in the morning. Thanks.

Bump... Anybody know anything? Got a really annoying pulsing at idle from time to time. AFR is steady, Ignition is steady, but RPM oscillating up and down. It jumps at least 300 RPM above and below target.

When you say South, do you mean UK?

Just to update this... there is a break in the 12v supply to the solenoid. Although it gets 10.7v, it’s not able to supply much current. A new 12v feed has cured the problem.

Hi, Just a quick one... In the TT Base File, the PID settings etc for the Ethrottle are as follows: P=7.00, I=0.137, D=40.00 The "VDO" Ethrottle PIDs are: P=8.00, I=0.102, D=30.00 Does anybody have some good PID settings for these bodies? Specifically the Audi S4 1.8T 65mm Body.

I have just set up this exact ISCV. Centre pin is 12v, one pin is constant earth, other is PWM (ISCV Solenoid) at ECU. Works really well.

Hi Guys Has anybody played around with the 1NZ-FE (Yaris) VVTi operation? Just playing with a turbo converted one!

Thanks. Resistor is looped around to join the ends of the trunk 30mm past the CAN LAMBDA. Also getting lots of CAN errors. Will check the twisting tomorrow morning but that is correct iirc.

Resistor added. Interesting while setting this up and following the manual for CAN setup, had an issue. In the CAN Devices tab, I selected the CAN Lambda, then tried to update the speed to 1mb/s (from 500mb/s). Then proceeded to "send". It said it failed and to cycle power, which I did by unplugging the connector and reconnecting. Tried it several times but it didn't succeed, so had to alter the main bit rate on the CAN Connection to 500mb/s. Anybody else had this?

Hi Guys, Have searched for this, but not come up with a definitive answer... When installing a CAN Lambda on a wire-in or plug-in ECU, do you need a terminating resistor? It doesn't say in the instructions, but in the help files, it does indicate that it would be needed...

will be tuning a 20VT with a T34 next week...

I hardly ever touch DTA my friend... Just doing one recently with INTER off and the Pot boxes reminded me how good some features are... I always work ahead anyway as well...