Stevieturbo

I guess if for whatever reason you believe you must run a CDI system...then maybe opt for something proven like M&W, and get rid of the junk MSD.

So you have a wiring or alternator issue ? Just exactly how much current do you think the OEM coils pull ? Because it is an insignificant amount in general and in no way the cause of any problems. Are you making 4 figure power or lots more to really necessitate stronger coils ? If so, IGN1A's are the obvious choice. Bottom line, CDI is not necessary, no benefit and almost always more hassle than they are worth. OEM Subaru coils are very powerful and will easily cope with 800hp. If you;'re having problems at much lower than that, then the problem is not the coils themselves. and a good crimp is always preferable to solder. You'll rarely see solder in aerospace, milspec stuff. if you really must solder, ensure the wire is well supported so it cannot fatigue and fracture over time

Easiest....2 wire sensors should be dedicated to a single ecu. ie fit a new one for the Link. Most 3 wire powered sensors, their output can be shared ok. I know what Adam is doing by connecting to inputs with no pullup resistor, but there is still a chance this can skew readings to both units giving incorrect readings. And if the crank/cam triggers are VR, 2 wire...not sure how easy these will be to share between two devices ?

Clint at BHP has done these, he's on the forum too so maybe he'll pop up.

It would be nice if these base tables could self populate whilst performing a known "safe" run to fill in the base tables with a background noise level. Then simply add the 10-20% to those values the table could average over a few pulls if need be.

Make life simple.....CDI Box, in the bin. 2001+ OEM Subaru COP's will easily take you to 800hp with zero issues. And not sure what trying to measure frequency from the ecu outputs is supposed to tell you. There will only be a frequency reading...as and when it is trying to charge/fire the coil, which of course will be a variable relating to rpm. To test the output proper you really need a scope...although you are happy now the ecu side of things is ok. But really...CDI boxes are more hassle then they are worth, and for pretty much anything these days are in no way needed.

runs can in what respect ? There is GEMS/Simtek which is good value...although the software is certainly an acquired taste. No idea on Link though As to how well any aftermarket solution will fully integrate with all OEM functions...is another matter entirely....few if any will.

Volvo's use this 3 way tee with a vacuum switch on it to drive the electric pump ( via a relay of course ) Connect intake vac, elec pump and then to servo and the switch will operate to maintain vacuum in the servo. Many modern cars use a little electric pump now, think it's those with that stop/start nonsense but loads of them use the exact same pump, although they might control it differently. http://2cb6df.39.ekmpowershop.net/volvo-v70-s60-s80-power-brake-vacuum-control-switch--part-no-30645493-10453-p.asp

remove power from the DBW motor and manually move the blade to see if the input signals are making sense going from closed to open. Sounds like it's just wired wrong. Do not attempt this if the blade motor has power....just in case you lose a finger.

Configure as per a DBW 2.5 05+ car ( UK/JDM anyway, US went that way a bit earlier I think ) although are you saying you're using a quad AVCS engine, or just a 4Cam engine with intake AVCS and a sensor on each intake cam ?

Duty cycle is calculated same as it would anywhere for any thing.. It's simply a ratio of time active vs time available.. Time available being a full engine cycle. And there is no reason for DC to randomly "drastically increase" unless you've given the ecu a wide range of closed loop control to allow it to increase fuel pulse duration. Obviously Lambda/AFR is ultimately what you need to be correct....and is the end result of all the rest of the items being correct, so would be the easiest for a safety feature, even if it needs to be DIY implemented as there are no proper engine protection features for this. Ideally you'd have safety features for fuel pressure too though.

Not sure exactly which year although obviously it'd need to be 05-07 in the UK Subaru pedal, metal arm....plastic/rubber pedal. So possibly not an STI pedal. Looking into pedal, clip on top ( These were wiring colours on the plug that was cut from loom ) Left =1 1- Dark Blue = Signal 2- Orange = Sensor Ground 3- Blue/Red = 5v 4- White/Blue = Signal 5- White/Red = Sensor Ground 6- Light Blue = 5v Both are 0-5v tracks upwards But with a 5v supply it's pretty easy to work through them and test yourself. I did buy another pedal for a spare that I think came from a Legacy, different wire colours, same plug, and testing showed same pinouts.

The instructions do seem a little unclear. The printed text above ( which is downloadable ) does mention the resistor...but it does also state that the G4+ already has this onboard which would imply the user does not need to add one and it has worked for me without one.

There may be legal/inspection matters that require the factory ecu to be in place ?

Surely as long as crank/cam are present it still knows which cylinder is active at any given time despite wasted spark so it should be able to trim on a per cylinder basis ? Or is it just a Link software thing ?

If by WRX you mean a Subaru, firing order is 1324.. Pair 1+2 and 3+4 But what exactly are you pairing and why ?

Because the ecu was always validating both crank and cam...the signal was just erratic, so any loss caused the engine to cut out. So I wouldnt say the actual trigger point was the issue....just that it was unreliable. The trigger point should have a wide window of being ok anyway given all it is doing. But of course all the ecu needs in order to start and run would be a single reference to ID cyl 1 and thereafter as long as crank signal is good with all the teeth etc it expect and no errors it can very happily ignore the cam trigger. ( But again some ecu's allow you to do this, some dont. Not sure if Link does ) So whilst it didnt give me a perfect signal, it would still have been a good enough signal to do the above....except my ecu at the time wouldnt allow it. I did change to a different ecu later on and ran with that same trigger for a few months, until I was able to make use of the OEM trigger setup but that required a lot of work as I'd rendered it inaccessible with other work. But if you had a little room on the end of the camshaft to screw in a small M6 capscrew you could very easily use that and it would give you a good signal directly via the camshaft rather than trying to use a lobe or rocker.

I did this a few years ago with another ecu brand although I used a generic threaded hall sensor pointed at the steel roller tip of a rocker. Whilst it did work to a degree, it proved a little unreliable. However that ecu insisted on the cam sensor being validated full time. If the ecu allows you to ignore the cam signal once in 720sync then that would not be a problem but mine didnt at that time.. Some ecu's allow that, some dont, and some crank triggers lend themselves a little better to this than others ( ie those with an index/missing tooth etc ) Although if there is room...screwing say a small cap screw into the end of the camshaft..or somewhere along its length ( but the dead end is most sensible ) would give you a valid tooth to use. Does the engine you are using not already have some sort of phase trigger ?

There are definitely a few variations of pedal pinout depending on which pedal and model. When i did mine I found a few online and none matched the STI Pedal I used ( same main plastic body but with a steel arm for the pedal ). And my pinout is different than listed above. Best way to find out is to get a power supply or battery or similar and test it before hooking up to the ecu

you sure as hell better get some better flywheel retention if you want to pull 10k !!!! Otherwise it's going to be very messy.

I wouldnt even worry about an idle speed control valve, unless you really do see huge temperature swings that might make very cold starts a little more difficult.

The OEM sensors work fine from an unregulated 12v supply, they'd probably work fine off 5v too. They're just a hall sensor there is no need for a regulated supply. LS coils have built in ignitors. 5v/hi to charge, 0v/low to fire the coil. If firing wasted spark, 1+6, 8+5, 7+4 and 2+3 as pairs

If your tuner cannot avoid detonation, find a new tuner. Plain and simple. Any "meter" is only as reliable as the person using and configuring it.

Not quite getting the question. Are you just looking for a new crank sensor ? Â What's the reference to a 1 tooth cog ? Â The ecu would not be able to detect a fault with the coils on the "misfire" wire the OEM ecu uses. Just ground it along with the main power ground for the coils.

There are base maps for the V10 included with the Link software.