Steven Bicknell Posted December 25, 2019 Report Share Posted December 25, 2019 I have followed the set-up guide for MAP, triggers etc. There are no errors and the engine cranks. but doesn't catch. I've been reading about the Subaru immobiliser setup and it reportedly relies on three elements with matching codes to start the car: Key with chip, ignition barrel with immobiliser and ECU. If one of these does not match, the immobiliser cuts the fuel and power to the spark plugs, which leaves the engine cranking, but not firing. Considering I have good fuel pressure, coils are new, as are the spark plugs I'm fairly confident the issue is somehow related to the immobiliser. There is no reference in any G4 Link instructions to working around an immobiliser which I guess means I'm over looking something simple. The only thought I have at the moment is to switch the WRX/STI jumpers on the board to see if that is the solution. In the manual it says that these may be reversed, depending on the country of origin. Does anyone else have any experience with this issue? Thanks Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil brown Posted December 25, 2019 Report Share Posted December 25, 2019 Is it a new ecu if so did you enter the unlock code as they are shipped locked Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Bicknell Posted December 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2019 Yes, it’s all unlocked and set up to start. MAP, TPS calibrated, triggers function and spike the RPM on cranking. Apparently the immobilizer on these vehicles is separate from the ECU. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil brown Posted December 25, 2019 Report Share Posted December 25, 2019 I have a link storm ecu on my Subaru and have no issues with my immobiliser car runs runs and still have the chip in the key Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted December 25, 2019 Report Share Posted December 25, 2019 Its a bit hard to offer relevent help since you didnt mention what model car/ECU you have. If it is a V5/6 then the STI/WRX jumper swaps the cam and crank signal - if you have this wrong then you will have erratic or no RPM displayed when cranking. If it is a V7/9 then the ECU wont even power up/connect if you have the jumper wrong. The immobilizer will have no effect on either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Bicknell Posted December 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2019 Sorry. It’s a Version 8 Spec C engine. I’ve connected to the ECU, but maybe I’ll try switching the jumpers as a next step. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted December 25, 2019 Report Share Posted December 25, 2019 1 hour ago, Adamw said: If it is a V7/9 then the ECU wont even power up/connect if you have the jumper wrong. If you can connect to the ecu then the jumper is correct. Can you do a log of it cranking and attach a copy of your tune. How to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Bicknell Posted December 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2019 Hey Adam, here's my base map and log file. The thing that stands out to me is that my battery volt is reading 11.80. This is a brand new 12v battery I bought from https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/lightweight-batteries/ody-pc680mjt-odyssey-lightweight-battery-w-metal-jacket-and-terminals others are using this unit successfully, but I wonder if it's not powerful enough for an initial start-up after a build? Cheers Steve Dec26_SB.llg Steve_WRX_STI_V9_1000cc_ME.pclr Update: the battery is reading 13V direct off a multi-meter, so I guess it reads less to the ECU? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted December 27, 2019 Report Share Posted December 27, 2019 It doesnt look like the engine was cranking when you took that log. Can you do another log with the engine cranking. I wouldnt worry about the battery voltage at this stage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Bicknell Posted December 27, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2019 Here you go. I took these earlier in the day. Visibly the crank pulley is attempting to turn. Log 2019-12-26 2;05;31 pm.llg Log 2019-12-26 2;09;58 pm.llg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted December 27, 2019 Report Share Posted December 27, 2019 I think you might want to try a jumper battery, I dont see too much else wrong but it is cranking fairly slow and the batt voltage drops to 9V during cranking so thats not going to make it easy to start when it is not tuned. Also If you dont have an IAT sensor connected you should turn off AN Temp 3 for now so it isnt adding a big correction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Bicknell Posted December 27, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2019 Thanks, Adam. I’ll give that a go. I have turned off AN Temp 3 for now. I appreciate the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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