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rjdrifts

G4 Expansion Loom CAN PORT?

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I bought a G4+ PNP for my E36 as well as a wideband Lambda sensor for it. Then went ahead and purchased  the expansion loom as in the link webpage is says that its used to wire an external wideband AFR/ LAMBDA. 

The LAMBDA instructions say to wire in the wires to 12v, Ground, CAN H & CAN L  however the expansion loom does not have CAN H and CAN L...  where do I wire these in in the loom?! Help please. 

Thank you. 

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what lambda sensor and gauge do you use?

you may want to use the analog output of your gauge to plug it on the expansion loom.

however if you can make it through CAN its as good if not better, you simply need to plug it on the CAN specific loom that also attaches to the lower pcb of the ecu (just another plug)

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For a CAN lambda you will need a different cable, you need a CANPCB and the mating plug CANF.  

Something like this:

rbgucts.png

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I followed those instructions but I can't connect to the ecu when the CAN 1 cable is connected. I get an error saying to check ecu power, and COM port. When I disconnect the CAN 1 cable, I can connect to the ecu. I have the G4 350Z PnP. 

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59 minutes ago, Cnote0ne said:

I followed those instructions but I can't connect to the ecu when the CAN 1 cable is connected. I get an error saying to check ecu power, and COM port. When I disconnect the CAN 1 cable, I can connect to the ecu. I have the G4 350Z PnP. 

That sounds like you must be using the CANDASH cable instead of the CANF as shown above.  The CANDASH cable connects the two serial wires so that will upset PC Comms.

A quick fix would be to open up the ECU case again and either snip or depin the yellow and grey wires from the white plug on the CANPCB cable.

4fAWjEh.png

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On 6/4/2020 at 3:55 AM, Adamw said:

For a CAN lambda you will need a different cable, you need a CANPCB and the mating plug CANF.  

Something like this:

15 minutes ago, Adamw said:

That sounds like you must be using the CANDASH cable instead of the CANF as shown above.  The CANDASH cable connects the two serial wires so that will upset PC Comms.

A quick fix would be to open up the ECU case again and either snip or depin the yellow and grey wires from the white plug on the CANPCB cable.

4fAWjEh.png

That is the cable I have. I snipped the yellow and grey wire like you said and all is good. Thank you for your help.

 

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Still waiting for my CANPCB to arrive. i got the CANF in the mail this week. 

I have another question though, I also purchased the AIM/LINK MXS Strada dash which also requires to be connected to CANL and CANH.. can i tie in both the LINK lanmbda CAN H & L and the screen's CAN H & L through through the same CANPCB CAN H & L? Will there be any signal interference if i do?

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Proper CAN bus structure is easiest to describe as a "daisy chain".  So you start at one device, go to the next, then from the 2nd device to the next, etc.  The first and the last device have to have terminating resistors.  The ECU has a permanent terminating resistor built-in and the dash has a terminating resistor built-in that can be turned on/off in the software, so it is easiest to have one of these at each end of the bus and the Lambda in the middle.

So two wires from ECU down to the lambda, then another two wires from the lambda back to the dash.  If you use small wires you can just crimp two wires into a single pin at the lambda connector to save having to do a splice or whatever.

Sorry for the rough drawing but hopefully gives you the idea:

bPVQcbJ.png

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I'm not getting any AFR/Lambda numbers. Using Link Can-Lambda wideband controller on CAN 1. CAN 1 shows all green in Runtime Values but when I do a find in CAN Devices, no devices found. Shouldn't the wideband controller show up considering I have no error codes. 

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On 6/20/2020 at 1:32 AM, Adamw said:

Proper CAN bus structure is easiest to describe as a "daisy chain".  So you start at one device, go to the next, then from the 2nd device to the next, etc.  The first and the last device have to have terminating resistors.  The ECU has a permanent terminating resistor built-in and the dash has a terminating resistor built-in that can be turned on/off in the software, so it is easiest to have one of these at each end of the bus and the Lambda in the middle.

So two wires from ECU down to the lambda, then another two wires from the lambda back to the dash.  If you use small wires you can just crimp two wires into a single pin at the lambda connector to save having to do a splice or whatever.

Sorry for the rough drawing but hopefully gives you the idea:

bPVQcbJ.png

This is exactly the info that i was looking for and it makes perfect sense. Thank you! What resistor would you recommend? 

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3 hours ago, rjdrifts said:

What resistor would you recommend? 

As per my note the ECU and dash already have one built-in, so provided you have those at each end of the bus you dont need to add one.

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