Fikemoster Posted March 14, 2018 Report Share Posted March 14, 2018 Hi guys I'm new to the forum but have had my link ecu for quite some time but have been in the process of wiring it in and doing some other bits and pieces to the car. I have a link g4 xtreme silver box and the engine is a rb25 s2. Right the questions. The other day I thought as I'd only like to wire the car once I would take advantage of the features and change over to a trigger setup now. I am going to build my own brackets to house the sensors and make my own trigger wheels etc but what I'd like to know well I'm after opinions on what is recommended. I know there are hall sensors which seem to be quite popular and I have been recommended over on the sau forum by a perticular member to use the Bosch motorsport hall sensor. Looking through the link manuals the wiring seems to be pre wired for a reluctor sensor and I see that on the link website the sensor you sell are reluctor sensors and various information online seemed to rate reluctor sensors as being the better choice but if I'm honest I have no idea. And myself building the brackets and triggers the choice of sensor will effect how I build these so I'd like to get it right first time. So any help will be fantastic Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted March 14, 2018 Report Share Posted March 14, 2018 Its really a 50/50 call from our end. What is critical is that the trigger wheel matches the spec the sensor requires. Most issues we see are due to the trigger wheel design not being within the specs recomended by the sensor. Or the mounting brackets bing to light and allowing sensor movement relative to the trigger wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fikemoster Posted March 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2018 Ok thanks for that information. I was also recommended this sensor: http://www.nzefi.com/product/crankshaft-reluctor-trigger-sensor/ And I have delt with nzefi before and have always been happy but wanted to make sure the sensor would work with my specific plan. I saw a guy use the harmonic balancer (via cutting teeth into it) as the trigger wheel itself. But he was using the honeywell gt sensor Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 15, 2018 Report Share Posted March 15, 2018 The reluctor sensor you link to would be a good choice provided there is room to mount it etc. Tooth size is important with reluctor sensors so take a look at the trigger wheels NZEFI links to on that same page for an idea of size. Your teeth want to be no longer than about 4mm. 24-1 or 36-2 are usually what I go for but also 12 or 24 equally spaced teeth would do fine too. You will also need a single tooth on the cam (or an aftermarket disc in the original CAS will give you that). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fikemoster Posted March 15, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2018 Hi thanks for the information I think I have narrowed it down to two sensors the other being: http://www.bosch-motorsport.de/en/de/produkte/catalog_products_1_797239.php I'm leaning towards the Bosch sensor now where as before I was abit unsure as it was a three wire and I associated three wires with hall sensors but looking at the spec sheet it appears the third wire is a shield can anybody confirm that? The main reason being it seemed easier to wire in a 2 wire sensor to the link wiring than a 3 wire. I was planning on using either a 24 - 1 or 36 - 2 on the crank and a single tooth on the cam but before I committed I just wanted to make sure as im using a slightly older generation of link ecu (silver box) it could keep up with the higher tooth count Thanks again mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 15, 2018 Report Share Posted March 15, 2018 Yep, that is a 911 Porsche sensor, they are VR, and you are correct that the 3rd pin is the shield. You will find the same sensor just with different length cable and different connectors on many European cars. There is a common VW sensor that is very similar but quite a bit cheaper that might be worth looking at, search 0261210147. Also, 0261210128 is a similar sensor with a more common JPT connector. The old G4 will work well with 36-2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fikemoster Posted March 15, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2018 Ok thanks for the very useful information again. You have been a great help. Im pretty much set to go now. Just need to design my brackets. One last question. On the spec sheet for the bosch sensor it gives the dimensions for trigger wheel and size and it specifies a 60 - 2 wheel. I presume the sensor will be ok reading a 36 - 2? Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 16, 2018 Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 5 hours ago, Fikemoster said: I presume the sensor will be ok reading a 36 - 2? Yep, follow their suggested tooth size and all will be well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fikemoster Posted March 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 Wicked I can now put this project in to progress thanks for all the help. If I may can I ask one last question. On what will be my two trigger wheels the sync wheel on the cam and the ref on the crank. The spec sheet for the bosch sensor doesn't specify the location that the missing toot/teeth will be is this dependant on engine or how is it calculated. As you know I'll be using 36 - 2 on the ref and I was going to use a wheel with a single tooth on the cam/sync. Something like this (attached image) Thanks again sorry for the n00b questions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 17, 2018 Report Share Posted March 17, 2018 The position of the crank wheel missing teeth is not critical. Somewhere around 90deg before or after TDC#1 is a good option. This makes it easy to guess a trigger offset for first start up and is also a good location in terms of no pistons at TDC so crank acceleration is reasonably flat. For the cam tooth again it is not critical but the main rule is you dont want it to pass its sensor at the same time as the "gap" on the crank passes it's sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fikemoster Posted March 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2018 Lovely thankyou again for your help Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MagicMike Posted March 19, 2018 Report Share Posted March 19, 2018 I use that same cam sync trigger. Works well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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