Knox
-
Posts
137 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Knox
-
-
1 hour ago, Adamw said:
Be aware that most injectors are wide open by ~90%, so this means you are asking for 15% more fuel than the injector can actually deliver. I would be very concerned running like that.
Thank you for warning. Great support as always. Its 0.8bar boost with 11.3-11.5 afr with conservative timing + boost cut set to 1bar. Thats why I’m not concerned much.
-
8 hours ago, Adamw said:
Ok some options:
If the "Injector DC fault value" (fuel main settings) is set to something low, then you can just increase this value. If however it is already set to 100% then it cant be set any higher. It means the ecu is calculating you need more fuel than what the injectors are capable of supplying. This would mean either injectors are too small, fuel pressure is too low, or you have some trigger error or other problem. Any of these are potentially dangerous for the engine so you may not just want to ignore that warning.
If you do understand the risk and just want to ignore it then you can mask this fault from the CE light function by setting as below.
Thank you for fast reply. Duty cycle see only 104-105% and afr is still good, I informed the customer and used a map limit for prevent lean condition but everytime at wot gives injector error thats why I just want to ignore it until owner buy bigger injectors.
-
Hello, can I block to give ecu fault code 122 (maximum injector duty cycle reached)? Or can I just block to ecu turn on check engine light for code122?
-
-
3 hours ago, koracing said:
If the engine does stop as you say it does sometimes, does the ecu still have power even in those situations?
To be honest, I didn’t check voltage when it stoped. But when engine didn’t stop, I checked voltage drop to 3-5v first shut off after increase to 7-8v and engine continous to run.
After adamw’s advices, I found that the turbo recirculation valve backfeed the ecu.
-
1 hour ago, Adamw said:
That almost sounds like a backfeed through an aux output. Have any of the devices connected to aux outputs been changed, or perhaps any power supply changes to aux devices? Standard aux devices for this ecu are as follows:
- Tacho
- Turbo re-circ
- Wastegate
- NC
- Fuel pump relay
- Purge Canister
- CE light
Thank you for fast reply. No addirional aux used right now.
-If I just disable and try all standart aux’s can I find which one is backfeed or I need to take out sockets one by one ?- what is NC aux? I saw nc on manual and I tought it is “not connected”
- Let’s say I find which aux backfeed the ecu, how can I solve this issue?
-
On 7/14/2020 at 6:50 PM, TechDave said:
This should work according to our data.
Hello, today I installed audi ttx ecu to 2005 model seat leon fr with auq engine. Everything looks good, gauges works, wheel speeds work with can bus etc. Only issue I have is when I turn of the switch engine continous to work, voltage drop to 5-6volts but everything (coils, injectors) continoue to work. Sometimes engine stops but sometimes not. Where I need to check. First I tought there is issue with key switch but it looks like switch is not the issue.
-
1 hour ago, Adamw said:
Oh ok, it is a G4X, you were posting in a the G4 section so I couldnt understand why you were having a problem.
The trick to assigning a DI to more than one function in G4X is when it pops up with the question "*** is already connected to DI3. Would you like to disconnect ***?", just choose no.
Your pull-up and active state settings etc will then show up in >Digital Inputs>Input pins, and in here you can also hit the "connection list" button to see what functions are assigned to DI3.
Thank you, I just make a search and when I find this topic so I tought its the best topic to ask, I didn't think its g4 section sorry. On g4+ how I can make, just assign same DI and no pop up menu comes, am I correct?
-
8 hours ago, Adamw said:
The google drive link is restricted. You will have to go back to the sharing settings and change it to something like "anyone with link can edit"
I'm sorry, I don't use google drive usually. I changed it and here is the link again.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Uu7lnA07VkxHueRK4BQsbNmDMwraTnon/view?usp=sharing -
I can't attached here because of size. Here is the google drive link. My DI3 and DI5 is not used, so you can use that inputs.https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Uu7lnA07VkxHueRK4BQsbNmDMwraTnon/view?usp=sharing
-
On 1/7/2013 at 9:38 AM, Adamw said:
Yes, there are a few ways you can do this with a G4 but the easiest way is to use the 'dual fuel table'.
Under 'fuel corrections>dual fuel table', set the table mode to 'dual table'. In this screen you also select what input is used to activate the second map. There are many options here - you can use a digital input if for instance you just want a basic on/off switch on your dash for the map changeover, or if you want to do something more complex you can even use a virtual aux - for instance if you want to add some other conditions such as 'second map can only be selected when air temp is below 30°C' or whatever else you might want. After you have turned on the dual fuel table you will see a new fuel map 'fuel table 2' in the ECU settings tree.
You will then also need to go through the same process to set up the 'dual ign table'
Hello, I want to ask how can I use same on/off switch to swtich fuel, ign and wastegate maps to second map? I try DI but I can not use same DI for change 3 of them together.
-
13 hours ago, tbase said:
@Adamw Sorry to dig this thread but I just found I have pretty much the same ALS effect as this guy had. When ALS active with throttle lift, boost has been built, but the rev stuck and doesn't drop down unless you have to take a hard brake on to un-activate ALS. There are no big bangs on the way down, it has sound like stable launch control active. I have tried to make change on retard between -10 and -30, same effect.
Is there anything wrong on this tune?Hello, your trigger setup is for EVO 1-6. Both car sensors are optical so it works but why it did not be the correct setting. For the ALS may 50% cut is not enough.
-
Hello, while I'm upgrading the firmware my customer's evo8+ plugin ecu stuck at boot mode. When I try to reinstall firmware, after installing writing comes on "switch off the ignition and on again and push OK" I make it but this error comes to the screen. When I press enter laptop and ecu connection lost completely. After I disconnect all sockets from ecu and connect again, laptop connects to ecu but writing comes on says ecu is in boot mode, reinstall firmware and same thing happens again.
Thanks in advance.
-
Hello, yesterday night I'm when on the dyno tuning an evo8 with plugin ecu. While I'm tuning something interesting happened. I noticed that car's door, my laptops serial port and my knock box's earphone have electric shock when I touch to them. And while I'm looking why is that I lost usb connection between laptop and ecu. Car starts and works fine so first I thought may be my laptops usb port burned but after that I tried another laptop and result is same no connection between laptop and ecu. After that I tried my laptop (which I use while this issue happen) with an other evo with Link plugin ecu and it connects to that ecu. So it looks like this ecu is works but can not connect to any laptop because of some electrical issue on the car. Is there any way to fix it ? Or someone have same issue before? If I can not fix this ecu here in Cyprus can I ship this to Link Ecu support department?
-
On 8/25/2021 at 12:09 AM, Adamw said:
Triggerscope looks fine at a quick glance. It would be better to get a scope capture when the misfire is occurring to be sure though. Can you give a log of it cranking?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/15JPJnAcxlOa8sttvu1wybPov9ri0Iprv/view?usp=sharing
Hello this is the link for cranking datalog. I turned of fuel while cranking because of engine bogs and ecu goes to offline.
-
Hello, I tuned this car several months ago,(350z with Link plugin ecu) yesterday engine starts to have issue. Issue is when start the engine, engine stops or misfires and did not respond good when open throttle it misfires or bogs etc. There is signal for trig1 and trig2, everything seems to work, fuel pressure is ok (3bar). Is there anything on the trigger scope? I captured this scope when engine cranks (injectors off).
-
S2K plugin
in G4x
Hello, I check Link website but couldn't find the plugin s2000 ecu .pdf file for free inputs and output pinouts. May be there is but I couldn't find, can someone please send me link for s2000 .pdf file.
Thank you.
-
On 2/21/2017 at 7:22 AM, Adamw said:
Hi Cederstrom96,
I wouldn't be too worried in this case. It looks like your volvo curve has most error at low temps and above about 40°C the resistance is very close to the Bosch curve. So at normal operating temps you should see very little error. The 5°C error at low temps shouldnt hacve any noticeable effect.
Note you can do custom calibration curves if you want it better.
Hello Adamw, can I ask about honda coolant sensors. Today I’m tuning my friend’s honda b18c type r engine with g4x plugin. What I notice is when ecu see 93-94 degree celcius coolant temp, hoses are nor that hot, I mean feels like 60-70 degree celcius. After some time ecu see 98-102 but hoses are feel normal I mean when engine in operating temp hose's temp and ecu temp is much closer. So I checked the calibration and ect sensor calibrated as std bosch ntc on link's base map but on link software there is also honda k20 and honda type a sensors (I don't know if these sensor calibration's for honda iat or honda etc). When select honda k20 3-5 degree less coolant temp ecu see compared with std bosch ntc and when select honda type a ecu see 7-8 degree less coolant temp than std bosch ntc. Can I ask honda typa a sensor is from which honda engine ? Because when select honda type a sensor ecu temp is much realistic and also this honda calibrations are for honda iat or honda ect sensor calibrations.
-
9 hours ago, Adamw said:
Basically the straightest most vertical edge should fall through zero. Sometimes it is not easy to spot on multitooth wheels with very closely spaced teeth but it is definitely clear in the pictures above.
Wiring info from the help file below showing example of correct and incorrect polarity.
This is on honda b18c engine with t1r cam gear sensor kit. There is dual pole one sensor (hall). Engine start and works but I think one of the sensor I wired wrong (+/-) because both uses falling edge on calibration but on trigger scope trig1 signal rise and fall and cam sensor is opposite it fall and rise on triggerscope. May be it is because of dual pole one sensor and I wired correct but I can not be sure thats why I asked.
-
On 9/24/2019 at 8:09 AM, Adamw said:
Both cam and crank are incorrect polarity, you will need to swap +/- wires. Post another scope once they are swapped because your wave form is quite distorted which suggests there may be some other wiring problem too. It may come right once swapped though.
Hello Ademw, how can I understand if the signal wires polarity +/- wires are incorrect or correct? Because of I forgot to take my notebook with me I can not attach a trigger scope but may be you can explain it to me with using the above triggerscope pictures. Thank you.
-
13 hours ago, Adamw said:
Seems to work as expected for me. Example below 6613RPM/150.8kph= 43.85 = close enough to 43.83RPM/kph gear ratio calc reported.
Adamw, this is much easier for me, thank you. Can I ask why when using gear calibration numbers are different with when enter manunally? For ex: 1st gear is 2.69 on my g4+ calibration (ecu calculated at that time) and on my g4x manually entered number is 105.5 ? And also when I use "ecu calculated" am I must "off" normalise ratio table ?
-
41 minutes ago, Adamw said:
Are you on the latest firmware? The calibration tolerance was opened up a lot in recent firmware. Otherwise I would like to see a log, possibly have a noisy speed source. You can also just look at the "Gear Ratio Calc." parameter from a logged drive and provided they are reasonably stable enter those numbers directly into the ratio table.
Yes I’m on 6.19.105 latest firmware. Just enter what is written at gear ratio calc for every gear and write manually without change or calculate something? Becase rpm/speed gives an other number,
-
On 2/27/2021 at 11:50 PM, koracing said:
Have you tried just entering the values manually from the G4+? I believe they use the same ratios. I've also had a car that seemed to fluctuate too much for the automatic method so I entered what I observed the average values to be (running car on dyno makes this easier to watch) and that worked as well. Perhaps you can create a match channel to average RPM/Speed for each gear? Maybe just an average speed math channel would make the math easier to manually enter.
Actually I did not think that at that time. I will try on monday and also I calculate speed/rpm number (which is completely different like 1. gear 2.69 when ecu calculated and when rpm/speed 1.st gear is 105.55). I will try manually entering these numbers also(ecu calculated on g4+ and rpm/speed).
-
Hello, I tried to calibrate my gear position using "Gear Detection" -> "Gear Calibration". When I try to calibrate on "Misc" tab Gear Ratio Status writes Error - try again, and what I noticed is on Misc tab "Acceleration (km/h/s) fluctuates and sometimes goes to red and also shows "- amounts". On the same car with G4+ I calibrated before, now I'm using G4X and I can not calibrate. On factory cluster speed works and also ecu reads speed sensor when I'm driving. How can I solve this issue ? and also can I enter manually G4+ gear ratio numbers (which I calibrate before) to G4X, are they using same calibration process? Thank you in advance.
Ecumaster display
in G4+
Posted
Hello Adamw, I don't understand how exactly I connect to ecumaster adu to link ecu with can bus. I need to wire Can L with 120 ohm resistor to adu Can L pin and also Can H with 120 ohm resistor to adu Can H pin ?