DenisAlmos
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Posts posted by DenisAlmos
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I want to get back to this subject because I've tried the accel enrichment in the G4X base map but I don't think it works well. The AFR is going very high for a short time like 18 during 1s.
I've tiring several things to improve but I now have too much fuel at acceleration and engine slow down for a few cycles.
In the G4+ base map I've notice the numbers are veri different, does the base map of G4+ is good? How can I translate it to my G4X? Does anyone else have the same problem?
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Hey everybody,
I'm using traditional fuel calculation on my Subaru Impreza GC8 WRX EJ205 (the classic one with no TGV).
As it's advised to use an intake air temperature sensor, I bought an AEM 30-2014 sensor and I was planning to set it instead of PCV valve an add a catch can. To do so, I bought an adaptor from 1/4NPT et 1/8NPT (I found in an other forum the PCV valve is 1/4BSP), I hope the NPT will fit the BSP... stupide imperial units but anyway.
The problem is the adaptor as a smaller inside dimeter after the 1/8 thread and the sensor as a cylinder in this area so it doesn't fit. Has anyone ever had the problem? Where did you put the sensor? Did you found an adaptor that fit with the cylindre?
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Ok, it's what I've understood, thanks
And what if my engine is tuned with Open Loop Lambda On and I want to set it off but my values in the fuel table are up to 96% for a 9ms master fuel?
I see in my logs the pulse width going up to 26ms sometimes but the Duty cycle is just at 100%. Can you explain why?
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Thanks @Vaughan for the formulas, it's much clearer now.
What I was try to say is, if you have the Open Loop Lambda Connection on and you set 1 in all lambda target table cells, you should end up with lambda 1 for real? It is the purpose of this mode to be able to change AFR without searching for the corresponding PW?
So for some like me, who tried to switch it off to see the difference, we are supposed to have lambda 1 for all driving situations?
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Does it mean the values in the fuel table should be at lambda 1 if Open Loop Lambda Correction is off?
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Well I've started investigate some mechanical issue, I've installed a fuel pressure sensor and will add an ACT sensor soon. What relevant info should I log in addition?
The AFR sensor is a few mounts old and it's an AEM X-series gauge wired in analogic. For the calibration, I've tested the preset one but I could see some differences from what I read on the gauge and what the ECU reads so I inserted the calibration written on the instruction manual and it's works fine.
I used the DI5 to switch from 98 Octane fuel to E85 but I only use E85 as it's half the price of 98 and I don't need knock witch I don't know how to set.
Therefore, the news is, I've found the origin of the problem: I switched off the Lambda Open Loop Correction a while ago because I thought it wasn't doing anything. I turned it back on yesterday an I went to work with the car today to test it [lockdown at 6pm here :-( ] and my 11.5 AFR was back!
Can you explain what does the Lambda Open Loop Correction and why is it so important?
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It's been a few months I'm learning how to tune and tryng to improve my mapping but I'm facing a problem with AFR values:
6 months ago, my engine builder mapped the car and under boost, I had 11.5 as he wanted to. That was in summer at 35°C outside. It was a quick map as I wanted to learn how to do it myself and didn’t wanted to pay much money.
2 mounts ago, I updated the fuel values because they were too poor. At that time I thought it was because of the colder air of winter (around 0°C0) and the fact I don't have an IAT or ACT sensor. With 96% injection duration, I had sub 12 AFR at 1.3 bar of boost.
Now I see the AFR going to 14 or more under boost using the same values (around 13°C outside). Fuel pressure is 3.2bar at idle and 4.7bar under boost.
Do you think I have an injector stocked open?
If not, what could be wrong?
Have a look at the logs here: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1CWP1k4VQQF5FD45FL8KzAsv78EikZdIC?usp=sharing
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I tried to listen the engine but I dont hear anything...
Volume in PC Link and the computer where at maximum.
Do you have any idea of things I can check?
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Is there any way to make the EVAP work with the G4X WRX6X?
Or what should I do to remove the system if I can't control it easy?
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Ok thanks
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Hi all,
I've been watching HP academy courses on Link G4 ECUs but I've notice I don't have the same parameters then what I seen no the video. Is it normal or is there a problem?
HP Academy display:
My display:
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Well, I tried the fonction again today and it worked. I remember it didn't worked when I installed the ECU. I don't know why it works now but it works, problem solved!
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Thanks @Adamw,
I understood that Acceleration correction is a multiplication factor, I thought it was an additional value. Maybe it will be useful explain that it's a factor in the help section. It works much better now.
I'll have a look to update the firmware.
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Hi community,
I've been using my G4X in my Subaru WRX V6 on E85 only so I didn't used the knock sensor yet but now I would like to make it work. If I'm right, the plugin G4X isn't compatible with the original sensor.
What should I do to connect the factory sensor to the ECU?
Do you have any tips for the calibration?
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I've found a bit of time to check the wiring and it was faulty. I mistakenly connected the ground of the gauge to an analogic input of the ECU.
With the ground to the ground it works. The default calibration for AEM EUGO wasn't correct so I created one.
Thank you @Adamw,
It's probably going to help so people. Maybe I'll use the CAN bus if I have more CAN devices in the future upgrades.
I've already notice a lean short moment after acceleration. I can now show it to you in a log. Please found it and my actual mapping in this Google Drive: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/12Modu01QtKC_UO-0wqdYfWSMMtq7TGtH?usp=sharing
Do you have any recommendation?
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Yes I connected the brown wire of the gauge to the brown wire of the extension loom and I connected the white wire of the gauge to the yellow of the extension loom. The pin of the yellow wire is named "temp2" but I assume it's a 0-5V input?
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I still can't found why the analogic doesn't work so I've looked at the CAN more on details. I saw the CAN bus needs a 120 ohms resistor at both ends.
Does the CANPCB and CANF you mention needs resistors or is it integrated in the cable?
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@Adamw sorry I juste realized I named the colons wrong in the previous poste. This is correct:
Volts AFR Gauge AFR ECU 1.35 13.5 11.3 1.30 14.5 11.2 1.00 15.3 10.7 But the calibration is not ok, I agree.
I'm plug it by CAN as you described previously.
This the tune I'm using now, It's possible I did some changes since I did the compare.
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Thanks a lot @Adamw,
I finally connected the gauge with analogic output, but what I was afraid of happened. I don’t have the same numbers on the gauge and in the ECU.
I’ve first use the calibration saved in the ECU, when I realized the values were not correct, I created a calibration table with the scaling written on the instruction manual. Didn’t worked either. With the AEM scaling, I’ve noticed the voltage the ECU is receiving is not the voltage it is supported to receive.
For an AFR of 11.3 I'm supposed to have around 1.75V and for an AFR of 10.7 around 1.5V.
What I have is:
Volts
ECU AFR
Display
1.35
13.5
11.3
1.3
14.5
11.2
1
15.3
10.7
What I'm supposed to have is:
Found the full instruction manual here: https://www.aemelectronics.com/files/instructions/30-0300.pdf
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Thanks @Adamw, my setting was 0s so I'll try with 10s to see if there is any difference.
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I don't know what do you mean by homing but when the engine is not running, the stepper goes to Base Position + Startup Offset. In the log it is 30 of Base Position and 8 of Startup Offset.
My hold power is set to 30% but I'm to sure to understand 30% of witch value?
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Alright, I'll try with some more pre-crank prime enrichment
My problem with open loop is every time I think I have good numbers, it doesn't work the following time. For example, with afternoon I did this log. With the stepper motor at 30% and engine at operation temperature. It worked well. I stopped the car and started it again and then the engine was very on RPM at idle for the same conditions of stepper position, MAP and temperature. However, as it was lower on RPM the ignition advance was lower, following to the Base Map ignition.
I tried to hit the throttle to see if changes something but didn’t.
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Thanks for the tip, I added enrichment and it's much better, perfect in some cases and a bit longer under 10°C. I'm waiting for colder than 10° weather to confirm my settings works.
I'm using the stock 440cc WRX V6 injectors.
Sometimes the check engine light comes because the injection have reached 102% injector duty cycle but I think I'll just decrease the boost to do not have to change the injectors.
I'm more focusing on Idle settings now and it's horrible now it can work properly one day and don't on the following one...
If you have any tip for Idle Control with a stepper motor, I'll be please to read you!
There the Cold Start values i'm using now:
Accel enrichement parameters
in G4x
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Ok I don't have the async injection on so I'll try this settings tomorrow and let you know. Yes I'm using traditional fuel.
So can you explain why in the G4+ the cold correction is from 7 at cold to 1 at warm and in the G4X all are 1?
Think you for the quick answer