Jump to content

Robsevo9

Members
  • Posts

    61
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Robsevo9

  1. 5 hours ago, koracing said:

    How did it show 1.06V before and now shows 0.02v?  Irregardless, hopefully a new sensor solves it.

    I think it was just getting worse which by the sound of AEM something they haven’t seen before. Even I thought I was doing something wrong when I put the multimeter on it while on the car and it running.

  2. Just got off the phone with AEM, the sensor is dead. Was reading 0.02 while on the car something about just 2psi… it’s under warranty so getting a new one. Once I get it I’ll let you guys know if that was really my issue. Thanks everyone 

  3. I triple check the wires and they are correct I followed aem instructions

    1 minute ago, koracing said:

    Do you have the AEM sensors working anywhere else on the car?  It seems like it's pinned ground and signal backward or something?

    This one is straight to the link ecu…. Boost is on one side and oil too all away

    and different wires.

  4. 1 hour ago, koracing said:

    Location should be no issue.  I've done the same thing many times.  I have my chassis dyno extra sensors (all the same AEM stainless sensors for 9+ years now) set up with these type of in-line port adapters for input to the dyno analog inputs for those (many) vehicles that don't come equipped with their own sensors.  I use them to monitor differential fuel pressure (dyno software calculated difference of dyno MAP and FP sensors) most often, and sometimes oil pressure.

     

    19 hours ago, Adamw said:

    That suggests the wiring is ok. 

    How is the sensor attached to the rail or fuel line?  Is it possible the port or flow path to the sensor is being blocked somehow when you thread the sensor all the way in?

    Ok so I tried blowing air into the sensor with a blow gun that has a rubber tip and it didn’t move at all I checked for psi and nothing went up or down volt was the same also it didn’t move.

    https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/785q8duh3xshpmsvfty14/IMG_9514.JPG?rlkey=ucic0lxg1rrjpay1lo4stokz6&dl=0
     

    kpa stood the same. I think the sensor pressure mechanism is messed up.

  5. 54 minutes ago, koracing said:

    If you have an air compressor you can try testing the pressure sensor with compressed air also to see if the voltage changes in the ecu with that.  I've only had 1 AEM stainless sensor failure in the past 10+ years of using them.

    When I get home I’ll try that, I’ll also see if there’s a clearance issue… is the sensor placement ok? It’s on the fuel rail before the injectors. 

  6. 7 minutes ago, Adamw said:

    That suggests the wiring is ok. 

    How is the sensor attached to the rail or fuel line?  Is it possible the port or flow path to the sensor is being blocked somehow when you thread the sensor all the way in?

    It’s directly on the fuel rail. No thread sealant, and I checked inside the sensor and it’s clean. 
     

    https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/1cfojgn64y5u527x5dyli/IMG_9508.PNG?rlkey=3pk4w7089osw3u1kff9b4sxa2&dl=0

    it’s leaning back a bit not straight up 

    11 minutes ago, Adamw said:

    That suggests the wiring is ok. 

    How is the sensor attached to the rail or fuel line?  Is it possible the port or flow path to the sensor is being blocked somehow when you thread the sensor all the way in?

    Ohh I see what you mean..I will check for clearance, it did come with a spacer.  I’ll report back tomorrow afternoon. Thank you for always being so helpful!!!!

  7. 2 hours ago, Adamw said:

    The link to the log works.  What is this log meant to be showing?  The fuel pressure sensor is not working correctly in that log but the engine is running, I thought the claim was the engine wouldnt run when the fuel press sensor was assigned?  I guess that could be the case if they mean when they change the fuel system type to FP sensor which would upset things since the sensor is reading no pressure.  

    You have a constant 0.59V showing on AN Volt 2.  To get that voltage it would likely be the sensor pinned wrong.  Is it definitely an AEM sensor?  If you unplug the sensor does AN Volt 2 then show 0.00-0.02V in PC Link?  With the sensor unplugged, if you short the 5V and signal pins together using a paperclip or similar like below, does AN Volt 2 then show 5.00V?

    dFcjWzj.png

    Yes aem stainless 100psi, only a few months old. This is what the tuner wrote. I will test for that. Also that is how I have it pinned.

    https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/jmayfl78nthv71wggyisi/email1?rlkey=92siszpzq585devg419zgqw4d&dl=0

    https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/62wss0vrxvcscpmxz9rem/email2?rlkey=em5n0zhlbrjrsdhsg4tyht7rk&dl=
     

    i followed these instructions

    https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/qpt0xohcdmyakttbkthhh/aem?rlkey=8cfr8c1kbe0j0bsolkagk8y4e&dl=0

  8. I’m using a aem pressure sensor on the fuel rail….. I wired it to the link expansion harness and it’s reading the same dam thing! And I tried a different sensor and it’s the same! Am I missing something? Does my tuner know what he’s taking about? I tried uploading the files but it says there’s no space and I don’t know how to do it another way

  9. 2 hours ago, koracing said:

    If the voltage is 1.06 - that doesn't seem like a dead sensor.  Does the voltage change on that screen if you unplug and plug the sensor back in?  Does it change if you turn on and off the fuel pump output?  If you can attach a copy of your tune file that may help to figure out why it isn't starting if it's related to the fuel pressure.  Is there a mechanical pressure gauge on the car?  What does it show doing the fuel pump on/off test?  What exact sensor are you using as there are some sensors using the same connector with a different pinout.

    Hey, the fuel pump and gauge all show and act normal. It’s just that one sensor I have connected on the rail. Tuner says it’s not allowing the car to stay on. So he turned it off and the car is now on. It just sounds crazy. I’m going to move it to an expansion wire anvolt11 and see what happens 

  10. im at the point where idk if my tuner is losing it and hes making me think im crazy....the base map he sent me turns the car on, sometimes it takes long... the new one doesnt let me turn th car on at all, he says its cause the link isnt reading fuel pressue

    4 minutes ago, Adamw said:

    The fuel press sensor isnt going to prevent the the car turning on or running.  

     

  11. no maf plug I did ground to chassis, pos via link ecu and signal pin 62 going into the link. Ok let me try sending the file. And yes it shows voltage but tuner says it’s dead that’s why the car isn’t turning on because of that

  12. 54 minutes ago, Adamw said:

    You didnt answer this.  Your pic is very hard to see but it very much looks like AN Volt 2 says Active to me and is showing a voltage. 

    You have used up all your attachment allowance, you can share your files using google drive, onedrive etc.  

    Have you connected all 3 sensor wires via the MAF plug?

     

  13. 25 minutes ago, Adamw said:

    Your pic is too small to see anything, you would be better to attach your tune and a short log.  What do you mean by "dead"? Is PC link showing no voltage on the AN Volt input or is it shorting the 5V output or some other issue? 

    Hey, it’s showing dead I tried but it says the file is too big, anvolt2 is 1.06

  14. hello, i was wondering if anyone has had this issue here, i changed the sensor and still get a dead sensor, wires are correct looking at the sensor with the tab up...ground left, 5v right and signal bottom which i tested for power and it gets none...that signal is wired  to pin 61 on my link.. is there any other wire i can use? or is the wire ok? does is need to have power with the key on?

    1 minute ago, Robsevo9 said:

    hello, i was wondering if anyone has had this issue here, i changed the sensor and still get a dead sensor, wires are correct looking at the sensor with the tab up...ground left, 5v right and signal bottom which i tested for power and it gets none...that signal is wired  to pin 61 on my link.. is there any other wire i can use? or is the wire ok? does is need to have power with the key on?

     

    IMG_9469.jpeg

  15. 26 minutes ago, Adamw said:

    I have never personally had an evo ix one apart but I would imagine this has full oil pressure inside the actuator, even with the solenoid unplugged.  

    Yes it should, I’m just nervous but I checked everything and I think it should be fine. Just going to wait for the mivec cap before I start it.

  16. 19 hours ago, Adamw said:

    You will have to pull the sprocket off to see what is wrong.  The dowel and cyl 2 lobes should be pointing upwards.  It could be a sheared dowel or some other assembly issue.  

    Adam you are a G!!!! From the beginning this issue had me scratching my head… my powder coater friend informed me he did take the mivec apart to sand blast it and pc it.. never did because he was worried the seal was gonna go bad and there isn’t one available to buy, so he put it back together…….. when you mentioned the mivec I knew I didn’t open it but I checked anyway and boom the dowel wasn’t straight up it was towards the back of the engine but the mivec was lined up. My timing was completely off by a quarter turn! Adam thank you very much for your help! Now to put it all back together and see if it will start… I did strip the bolt for the mivec cover. It was on there and wasn’t budging. Thanks everyone for your ideas and help… fingers crossed the car turns on this week

  17. 31 minutes ago, Adamw said:

    The pics are too small to tell, but are you saying these #2 lobes marked below are pointing straight up towards the sky?  They sure dont look like it in this pic.

    mwYr9xE.png  

     

    No they are like 3oclock

    How would I even move that without the cam coming out of timing?

×
×
  • Create New...