JMP
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Posts posted by JMP
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fast acting sensor in the stock location
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Mouser part # 523-BD-06BFFA-LL7001
slight correction, the correct plug is an AU series which is smaller than the BD series. AU-06BFFA-LL7001
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you will need an ignitor with the stock coils. I can't help with the settings for the factory ignitor as I've always swapped Denso COP's into JZ's when fitting link/vipec ECU's
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Why not link to the original discussion? https://www.facebook.com/groups/737420992943719/permalink/1530326236986520/
I'm fairly sure there's more to Link's modelled fuel equation than what Andy is talking about for his adap stuff. When you setup a "VE" fuel table with adaptronic it doesn't take into account the fuel type or fuel pressure for instance. Link/Vipec and Adaptronic are the main platforms I work on.
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Hi Neil,
I've got a spare Red G4 Extreme I could be convinced to part with, in Australia though
Jason
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Very nice,
I've grabbed a 4duino board and attempting to redo my code at the moment, it's a bit of a mess so likely going to start from scratch: http://www.4duino.com/
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some cruise switches use two wires and each switch position outputs a different resistance across the two wires
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I think it would work, you might want to swap to one of the solenoid style ISCV's for the 1J that are available now so you save an additional 3x Aux outputs. eg: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Syltech-Idle-Air-Control-Valve-IAC-1JZ-GTE-for-Haltech-Microtech-Link-Standalone-/201726865037?hash=item2ef7dbae8d:g:4pUAAOSwuzRXcijZ
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I'm fairly sure the v4 G4+ plugin doesn't do ethrottle
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you will find most of the factory 2jz wiring diagrams here: http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/browse/#view=ViewFolder¶m=2JZ-GTE%20Engine%20Wiring
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some tablets you can use an "On The Go" adapter cable to charge and have data through the single mini or micro USB
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yep, falling edge and those dwell times will work or you can even run a flat 3ms table
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Yes, it will drive them just fine. I had the same on my 2J.
They will do 600hp ATW no problems, this is with 1zz coils in waste spark with a T51R, BP98 pump fuel:
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8V is low for the ISCV power circuit, should be 12V
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I've got the same ECU/ISCV on my car. For me the ISCV is on Aux 3, setup as "ISC Solenoid" with a frequency of 200hz.
In the Idle Speed Control page, I'm just running open loop control, so the idle speed mode is "Open Loop Sol/Stepper". Stepper Motor Type is "Unipolar (6 Terminal)"
For my setup in the ISC Base Position Table, I've got 49.5% at 0degC and 36% at 90degC.
Have you done a solenoid test to make sure your assigned AUX runs through to the ISCV?
While you're troubleshooting I'd also zero out the idle up step tables
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they look like the generic china copy sensors, I'll bet the temp sensor is NTC and the pressure sensor is 0.5V @ 0psi and 4.5V @ 150psi with the same pinout as all the other pressure sensors with a Packard plug: http://microtechefi.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/0-150.pdf
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if you had v7-9 trigger wheels on the engine it would have run fine... not sure why you're still whinging that the v7-9 plugin doesn't work when it obviously does if you have things mechanically right in the first place.
Your own scope show it was running a mix-match of v1-6 cam wheels and a v7-9 crank wheel. Even an old wire-in v88 wouldn't have worked with that setup when you select the v7-9 trigger mode which expects you to actually be running v7-9 triggers
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add a fuel temp sensor and run the modelled fuel equation
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has worked well for me personally on the vvti 1jzgte, vvti 2jzgte, non vvti 2jzgte, non vvti 1jzgte, 1zzfe, 2zzge, 4age, my old built EJ257 with V6 heads/cams/triggers, the new 257 with v7 triggers and kelford 264's, etc etc. The majority of my cars have been Toyota's and they're all using reluctor triggers so that's my experience
In the other thread, it looked to be a specific issue with the camshaft sync is in the the missing tooth gap, is that the case with your engine?Spamming every Subaru thread on here hoping for an answer is probably the least efficient way to get it sorted, you'll notice that 90% of people don't post the resolution as they identify the simple mistake causing the problem and never return. Would be nice is more did post their resolutions.
Have you got an external scope you can put on the triggers at the ECU end when it's running on the stock ECU? that should give you a clear idea if the shielding/ground is breaking down in the loom allowing excessive noise on the triggers, which I've found to be a common issue on old Subaru looms. The stock ECU can deal with the noise surprisingly well.
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What jumper settings are you using on the board?
I don't work for Link, but do like helping fellow forum users that have issues with their installs. I've been using these ECU's since late 2008 so have a bit of experience.
Build thread for my forester is here: http://ozfoz.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=2621&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&sid=c0226dc16c346db58d9ec99b8eafd3a8&start=100
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my G4+ v7-10 plugin works perfectly on stock reluctor triggers and unmodified trigger wheels, have had it in my daily driver how since the G4+ range was released, replacing the previous vipec v7-9 plugin which also worked perfectly. I've even managed to make the old vipec wrx plugin work on a 1zzfe corolla which uses a 36-2 reluctor trigger on the crank. In my experience across a wide range of motors, Link ECU's work exceptionally well with reluctor triggers.
My trigger settings are almost identical to the set listed in the help file, just with a trigger offset of -2
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the 20V doesn't use VVTi, just a simple on/off VVT.
Wire the VVT solenoid pin 2 to one of your Aux outputs, then ignition switched 12V to pins 1.
In the Aux setup, choose the function of "CAM-Switched" and then setup whatever conditions you want the VVT to be switched on and then off again. An example is attached.
The help file has engine specific setup information that covers the 20V, screenshot of that is also attached.
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g4+plug in st205 AIT sensor preferred location?
in G4+
Posted
something like https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/cPath/129_142/products_id/1597?osCsid=dan4bu5ljd2vkgijgttlmogcr1
Check the thread pitch and depth of your original sensor