Ducie54

Too lock the timing you need to hit enter. If you press F12 and in the run time tab the ignition value should stay at the locked figure when rpm is increase. I personally would have ignition timing at 15 deg at idle as it allows room for idle ignition movement. Start with the offset at -107 mine was around there on my old gtir. The gtir is known for the balancer ring to slip on the rubber so double check tdc marks line up when pistion is up. Once the offset is adjusted so the locked number matches the balancer timing then adjust the iscv value to increase or decrease the idle rpm.

Do a trigger scope at idle. Also which coils are you using?

Post an engine bay pic where u have it. I have mine mounted just before the throttle body. No reason why you can't have it mounted on the outlet side of the intercooler.

Can you post your map

I sent you a file it was using stock turbo and 700cc sard injectors. Let us know how u go.

I have a few. But they are all for G4 traditional setups. Send me an email at [email protected] and I'll give you a starting point. May need tweaking as they had big injectors.

On my Samsung earbuds I had the cable tie the button down.

I would set both the same at 5000rpm as a start point. You ideally need to tune this on the dyno watching the torque the power. I noticed if you switch them too early the lambda goes rich and you need a low VE number to fix it. Mine leans out at 5000rpm. I needed another cell at 5150

That is opposite to what HPA teaches and the help file.

A few question in regards to your map Your dead time table has a Y axis of MAP and adding more at higher load? Your battery voltage from the log looks like it takes 10 sec to reach normal voltage. Your AFR changes a bit during this.

I had the same issue on my ASUS G55VW laptop . I manually found the Nvidia LAPTOP driver and haven't had a issue since.

Sounds like the ecu has hold function active from new. Try fused power to C2. Ground to c34.

Make sure your using 12v from an ignition source and not constant battery 12v

HPA have alot of good webinars on this subject. https://www.hpacademy.com

Black goes to ground White goes to ECU Green/yellow goes to coil Gti-r Igniters are renound for causing issues when hot, A common mod is to removed it from the head bracket and add a PC heat sink to it. Plus the normal dissy cap and rotor button wear

If it is interpolation during mapping doesn't that mean your not in the center of the cell.

You could also included a purge valve in the vacuum line. That's if u had some spare outputs, plus u could add conditions.

I would start by using a 2D boost table so you get a start point. Start at low DC% say 20 then work up. If you have a 1 bar wastegate spring you may find it spikes over 1 Bar when the cams switch, just watch that. I run KPA on the ignition table, I would also strongly suggest you have some sort of knock detection as this is a cropped version of mine, and my setup is slightly different. But you get the idea of the shape sr20vet ignition sample.lte

Post your map and some details like fuel, turbo ect.

Anything is possible Adam

So your trying to find out why you cant get more than 205 KPA when you have set you boost target to 180 KPA and using closed loop boost control?

What motor and does it have hydraulic lifters. Being new to tuning I would get the basics right first before playing with motorsport features

The msd HVC coil wiring dia shows a ground strap from one of the coil body bolts. Not sure if that would help.

I'm at work on my phone so I can't check ur file, but I'd make sure you have the latest firmware. When you say it's wrong how far out is it?