Adamw
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Posts posted by Adamw
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If it is set to optical/hall with the pull-ups on then I would expect about 4.5V. If set to reluctor I would expect near zero volts, although with nothing connected it is not a great test as it may float a bit.
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Definitely no trigger 1 signal at all in that scope.
If you unplug the ecu and measure resistance between pin B7 & B27 in the loom ecu plug what do you get?
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5 hours ago, NEO14 said:
It seems to do the same thing with the injection turned off?
You mean ignition right?
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What do you mean by "it still doesnt work"? Do you not have a voltage that varies slowly over a few minutes when you move the float?
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You will need to wire like this:
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Yes you've got random spikes to 0V on both trig 1 & 2. The ecu wont be happy with that.
Do those spikes disappear if you unplug the ign coils or turn off ign in the software?
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The high idle is likely because your idle valve is sitting on the min clamp. You could try reducing the min clamp to 10% to see if it gets to target then. The throttle blade will need to be adjusted more closed if that doesnt get you there. You should also enable idle ign control.
I dont see any evidence of or cause of a misfire in either log
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Can you give more detail about what you are trying to achieve? What do you need fuel level connected to the ecu for? You wont be able to have it connected to the stock gauge and the ecu at the same time.
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If the springs were too heavy and the wastegate wasnt opening the boost would rocket off to the moon until the boost cut caught it.
If you have no/low boost then you have a large leak - either on the boost side of the engine somewhere between turbo and manifold, or the wastgate popet. If you pull the exit pipe off the watsegate you will hear if it is leaking through that.
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The google drive link is restricted. Go back into the file sharing settings and change it to something that is worded like "anyone with link"
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The starting problem is because you have no cam signal. If you want to run direct spark ignition the ecu needs to know engine position within the 720deg 4 stroke cycle, you need a cam sensor for this. A crank wheel alone only covers 360deg of engine position.
So with no cam sensor, syncing to the correct 4 stroke phase will be pure "luck of the draw". Approx 50% of start attempts you will win and the spark will occur on compression stroke, the other 50% of attempts you will lose and will be sparking on exhaust stroke so it wont start.
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What do you mean by "Now i have very little or no boost at all!"? Does that mean your boost runs away to the moon and cant be reduced, or the boost is too low and cant be increased?
Is the wastegate and solenoid plumbed like below?
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No, Pin 77 is AN Temp 3, it is used for fuel temperature on Evo 8.
A fuel level sensor will need a special circuit to "dampen" the signal otherwise the fuel level reading will just be bouncing all over the place as fuel sloshes around. It will possibly need a pull-up resistor also depending if you still have the stock cluster in place.
Do you still has the stock dash connected?
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Can you attach a copy of your tune also.
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Ah good, this triggerscope caught the problem thanks.
What is happening is when the engine first fires the crank rapidly increases in speed (obviously normal), but in this case the large increase in speed occurs right where a missing tooth gap is, I have marked some lines on the plot below, the missing tooth gap (pink line) should normally be about twice as long as a normal tooth spacing (green line), but at this point if you compare the length of the gren line to the length of the pink line they are almost the same.
Let me pass this on to the firmware team to see if this can be solved with some adjustments to the trigger code.
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XAP-05V-1
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The voltage measured at the ecu unlikely has much resemblence of what the voltage is at the pump, you really need to measure voltage at the pump it that is your concern.
Your pressure drops with increasing duty cycle so it is obviously a lack of fuel flow, but that may or may not be caused by pump voltage.
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We need a trigger scope and a copy of your tune.
I would also suggest you improve the battery voltage problem, you only have 6-8V when cranking, the hall effect sensors may drop out when voltage dips that low.
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I think it is still a trigger problem, if you look at battery voltage it is constant in the area where RPM dropped to zero so I think it must still be cranking, just the trigger has lost position so it sets RPM to zero until it re-syncs. Can you do another trigger scope when it is cranking
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Have you confirmed ignition timing? (turn fuel off so it doesnt kick back). Have you tried shifting trigger offset by 360?
Trigger issues on first start up!
in G4x
Posted
Can you give us bit more info about the application - plug-in or wire in? Factory loom or custom? What does it have connected to auxes?