Adamw
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Posts posted by Adamw
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The first 2 you must have clicked capture before you started cranking the engine so you have just captured the stationary engine. You need to click capture when the engine is cranking.
The 3rd scope with the engine running shows the cam sensor is wired backwards. Swap the +/- wires at the sensor plug to correct this. I doubt that is causing your start issue though, but fix that first then do us another scope while cranking.
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If its not doing the LED dance on power up then that really does sound like it is dead. Very odd. Contact [email protected] to discuss.
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I will PM you guys both some instructions. If you want it done by Link you can contact [email protected] to get more info.
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No, still no signal on trigger 1.
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Did you confirm pinout for the jumper setting as below? If that looks correct then attach a short PC log and your tune.
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Yeah sounds like it is not happy with the signal, perhaps it is not always crossing zero or something. You would really need a scope on it to understand what the problem is. You could possibly use the trigger scope by looping your speedo signal into trig 1 pin as well, not something I have tried but should work in theory.
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I can give some info if you are well experienced with PCB soldering, ESD practices and have a reasonably powerful soldering iron - say 60W or so. The stubs that you need to solder to are highly conductive copper/gold and set in plastic so you need to get the heat in and out fast before things go soggy.
Note modifying the ecu may void its lifetime warranty.
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There is no built in way to do that. The only work around I can think of would be to set the colour of the range you dont want to see to the same colour as the chart background.
Have you tried the mixture map function? That is a bit more flexible with filters.
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There is something wrong with your CAS or the wiring to it.
There should be 2 signals coming from the CAS, trigger 1 should have 4 evenly spaced teeth every CAS revolution (some would call this the "crank signal", then trigger 2 should show two different sized teeth - 1 long, 1 short per rev (some would call this the "cam signal").
So your trig 2 signal looks good/normal, but your trig 1 signal is just a flat line sitting at 3.7V the whole time. 3.7V is about the normal pull-up voltage so this is what you would see if the sensor was disconnected or open circuit.
Here is yours:
Here is how it should look:
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Can you attach a log.
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It should use the Falcon CHT calibration.
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You have an xtreme so the 4 choice frequency menu is the one you use.
Reducing the Individual Cyl gain values arent going to solve the problem, these are software gains that adjust the already windowed and processed data. The main Gain channel adjustment is a hardware amplifier on the input side of the dsp. If the amplifier is already on its lowest gain (1.0) but the sensor voltage is so high that it is saturating the dsp input (indicated by the global knock level reaching 1000) then the signal has already been messed up by "clipping", just turning the volume down using software gains after the signal has already been distorted isnt going to give you anything useful. You will need to change to a wideband sensor.
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Yeah I have only ever seen the 1 calibration for ford cyl head temp sensors. Coyote oil pressure sensor I have never seen.
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Remove 3 teeth from the top wheel, doesnt matter which 3.
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1 hour ago, IncepTioN said:
I can manually adjust the idle control valve to be closed off more and then see if that helps?
No, it wont make any difference. You you still have undershoot entering idle then you will have to experiment with the dashpot settings.
1 hour ago, IncepTioN said:Also just noticed my map calibration is set to subaru v7-8 instead of subaru v1-6. would changing this help at all?
If MAP reads the same as BAP when the engine isnt running then you have the correct calibration.
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In the RPM limiter settings, turn on advanced mode and you will be able to adjust many variables that control the limiter. Generally a larger control range and lower start cut will make it smoother.
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5 hours ago, marches said:
Is there ANY case where after confirming each injector replies to the Injector Test by reporting a click, that they would not fire in time while turning the motor over?
Probably more possibilities than I could count.
A quicker way for us to help diagnose would be to provide a log of it cranking and your map.
How to set up and do the log:
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Ok I just played around a bit. I was initially getting the same issue as you with the knock toggling off as soon as you enable it. I think the processor needs a reset before enabling to allocate the tables properly.
Here's what I done and it seems to be remaining active now:
- Connect to ecu, load a fresh copy of your map. Do a store.
- Power cycle ignition.
- Connect to ecu, set knock control to internal, do a store.
Let me know if that doesnt work for you.
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I would run 4 new trigger wires from the ecu to the new coils. All of the coil ground wires should be connected to a single clean ground point preferably on the cylinder head. The 12V supply for the original coils should be fine to use for the new coils.
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2 minutes ago, 90awdtsi said:
Ok so no matter the trigger settings in the link, I should still have trigger signal in the scope correct?
The trigger settings do effect some of the scope set-up but if the trigger mode is currently set to one of the evo modes when doing the scope you should see a signal. Make sure you are clicking the capture button only when the engine is cranking - not before. Otherwise you will just capture the stationary engine which could appear like no signal.
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Are you on firmware 4.10.2? I vaguely remember the knock turning off after a reset being a bug in old firmware, something to do with you couldnt have DI5 pull-up and knock enabled at the same time.
If you are on 4.10 software then attach a copy of your map and I will take a look. This wouldnt have caused the high knock levels however.
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No, that would be instead of the crank trigger (not as good since it is still connected to the cam).
This is what you want with the crank trigger: https://www.efisolutions.com.au/hall-sensor-camshaft-home-sync-sr20-s13-180sx-s14
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A couple of changes I would suggest, in Idle Speed Control Setup, reduce the speed lockout to 6kmh. In Idle Actuator settings, try increasing the min clamp to about 30%. Those should hopefully reduce the dip when coming to a stop with the clutch out.
The dip at 0:06 seconds is not clear what caused it but possibly dash pot settings as it was after you blipped the throttle a few times.
Then there are a few near stalls in the log such as at 0:44.5secs where there is really no explanation but the ecu was already doing about as much as it can do, the ecu has the ign advance pegged at max, the idle valve is open more than normal and quickly being opened more, but still RPM is low. You can see the MAP is increased so extra load is coming from somewhere there are no fans or AC active - this looks more like the driver dragging the clutch or something. Possibly a fuel related issue but there is no wideband so we cant say.
Link_NGTR G4+ driving NGK U5014 (VAG coils)
in G4+
Posted
G4+ has no worries driving those coils. They have an impedance of about 330ohm so will pull about 15mA at 5V. Somebody has been very conservative with the 20mA quoted in the help file, I have even done those coils wired in pairs for wasted spark before - so at least 30mA.
Actually out of interest I just done a quick simulation of the G4+ ign drive circuit, it should be capable of about 52mA at 5V per drive, and those coils will trigger right down to about 3V so lots of headroom.