Adamw
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Posts posted by Adamw
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There doesnt appear to be a signal at all. Both Trigger 1 & 2 signals are sitting at 0.9V which would suggest a pinout issue I think. Usually with a hall sensor it would be either close to 0V or close to 4V, never at some random in between voltage like this.
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Can you give us a pic of the oscilloscope capture? Mostly interested in what voltage it is reaching.
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The waveform and edge pattern looks pretty good in that scope. I assume that was done at idle, can you do us another scope up at around 5000Rpm.
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can you attach a copy of your tune.
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In that log it doesnt look like it dies when you hit the throttle, it dies on return to idle after a blip. That looks like the idle valve or throttle stop is not open enough. You have an idle target of 11-1300 and it is idling at 550-600rpm.
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19 hours ago, Evo94g63 said:
I thought there was a setting in the ecu that let's u do the full sweep when u turn the ignition to on position
There is, but for that to work the tacho needs to be connected to the ecu.
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I would probably go for a StormX, this would be the lowest cost ecu to be able to do sequential injection and direct spark on a 6cyl.
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What trigger setting? The trigger was working fine in your last map and log.
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Can you share your tune as well.
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Im not sure how to make it any clearer - It is pointless trying missing tooth mode, you are just wasting time.
Getting a log and a trigger scope when the issue is happening is going to give you something that is much more useful for diagnosis.
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The idle control mostly looks like it is doing the right things now.
I suspect your stall issue is possibly fuel related. Your normal warm idle injector PW is about 0.75-0.9ms in areas of the log where it is idling well. In all the places the engine stalled the PW dropped down under 0.5ms just on entry to idle - in a couple of places as low as 0.3ms. I suspect some of your injectors may not even open down at that sort of PW. In some cases that very short PW was due to reaching very high vacuum in overrun, in others it was the CLL pulling fuel out the whole way down towards idle.
Try the changes in orange below to see if that improves the stalling problem.
The rev hang is due to excessive offset and base position. For normal warm idle your TP sits at about 1.7%. In the places with the rev hangs the throttle is sitting at 3.6%. It looks like the base position for 80°C and above needs to come down to about 1.8%, possibly some of the offsets need to come down a bit too.
But, lets not change to much at once, try the changes for the stalling issue first before messing with the hang.
- jqvp, Tim M and DenisAlmos
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No the settings look ok.
What confuses me is your comment above that says with Aux6 in test mode, with active state set to low the pump stops (which is correct behavior). The aux would be outputting a ground with this test setting. The "Three speed PWM module" mode with active state high would also be outputting a ground when the engine is not running - so why a different result...
Can you do that test again.
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On all K series alternators that I have seen, no ecu control is needed.
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Yeah, unfortunately that is a common problem with the old AEM controllers. 2 Problems: Firstly, the analog output is not very repeatable or accurate. Secondly, there is no seperate analog ground wire, so the ecu will be referencing a different ground than the sensor controller. You will also find when electrical loads such as cooling fans or head lights turn on the lambda will change.
The best you can do is run the black wire to the engine block and adjust the calibration table to acheive the best match between gauge and ECU.
What does your calibration table look like now?
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Missing tooth mode will be difficult to make work reliably with the 3 cam teeth. You would need to use the cam window sync method which is an advanced topic for experienced users. There is no point changing to missing tooth mode, it will give no difference to the 3SGE trigger mode.
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Yeah your trigger waveform still looks terrible.
Im still pretty sure it is a wiring issue as you have spikes of random voltage in your scope, but I would also suggest you check your trigger wheel is running true, I have had a couple of cases now where they havent been machined right and dont sit flat on the sproket.
Example of the problem here:
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In the stock setup you cant with the evo 9 ecu, the tacho is driven directly by the crank sensor.
You could try moving the tacho wire from pin 45 to either ign 5 or 6 on pin 3 or 4 then set that to tacho. It may or may not work depending if the ign drive pull-up is strong enough. If it didnt work then you would just need to add an extra pull-up resistor.
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If the engine has an idle valve then you must have a MAP sensor, if using TPS only the ecu has no way to measure or compensate for the variable air mass that is flowing into the manifold through the idle valve. This is unlikely your issue causing 2 cylinders to be dead, but you still need to get the basic fundamentals right.
Multitooth missing mode works no different that the 3SGE trigger mode, just a different sync count due to 3 teeth on the camshaft.
Can you do a log that shows these trigger errors occurring.
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Why do you want to use 3 fan functions for a single fan? What are you trying to achieve?
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41 minutes ago, eric0122 said:
I'm thinking abot the vvti can effect starting engine or not?
No, VVT is not needed or used during start up. The solenoids are disabled.
Why do you have the MAP sensor turned off?
44 minutes ago, eric0122 said:This log is the happy log because it have no trigger error when the engine is running but only around 10 second. I
If you are saying you have trigger errors then it would be best to give us a log and scope when the errors are occuring. There is no sign of trigger issues in your previous log.
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It all looks happy in the log. The ecu is not preventing any cylinders from running from what I can see.
You will need to connect your MAP sensor and turn it on in the software. Have you checked base timing? Have you checked fuel pressure?
Subaru Sti EJ20 trigger error/stalls at around 4000-5000 rpm
in G4x
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That scope looks all good too. Possibly there is some noise issue interfering at higher loads or something. Does boost level have any influence on the trigger error? Can you give a bit more detail about the car, does it have resistor spark plugs?