Adamw
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Posts posted by Adamw
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I would say you have something funny going on with the main power supply to the ECU (pin A5), possibly missing altogether or maybe just delayed (ie goes live sometime after the idle valve power supply). The buzzing is due to having 12V on the idle valve coil when the ecu is not powered up - the ecu is only powering up due to 12V flowing into aux 8 from the idle valve supply. When the buzzing stops is likely when the ecu is actually getting its proper power supply on A5.
So you need to look at that A5 supply circuit, I guess it could be a delay setting on the PDM output, or there is something weird about the wiring to pin A5.
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The duty cycle error is just something in your tune. But you didnt share that map and Im not going to try to guess.
It will get leaner once we see the tune to find what is giving you the large PW.
Your RPM limit is set quite low also, you are hitting that in one of the logs.
You will be able to get a small amount of idle control using idle ignition control, usually not enough for fast idle/cold start. But you would usually do idle control last, you need to get it running well first.
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2 hours ago, Sean S said:
I have the correct 3 bar sensor
It doesnt look like it from your data above - unless it has failed. Can you attach a picture of the sensor.
2 hours ago, Sean S said:I noticed in the Link diagnostics that Cyl/Sync error 3. Does this mean theres 3 errors or that cylinder 3 has an issue. And its still hunting around the 2000rpm mark
3 trigger errors means there have been 3 occasions where the ecu received a signal from the triggers that did not match the expected pattern. Most likely just during starting or stopping so likely nothing to worry about.
As mentioned earlier your hunting issue is most likely a tune issue or a problem with the idle valve. I would lean more towards it being a tune issue based on the cluster fuc* fuel table in the background of your pic above. Its got larger fuel numbers at a 750RPM idle than it does at 7250RPM & 25psi boost...
If it ran ok like this before then it suggests it was probably tuned with some fundamental setting wrong in the first place (such as wrong MAP sensor setting). It really needs tuning from scratch.
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Then your engine has the factory sensor so "Factory" is the correct setting. If you want to use the 3Bar setting then you will have to fit the correct 3 bar sensor (I suspect it is for the V9 sensor)
Edit:
I just read the manual, the 3bar setting is for the common GM 3bar sensor: https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/cPath/129_143/products_id/1584
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The ecu can control dual vanos but the E36 plug-in does not have enough inputs and outputs available to do that along with all the other engine requirements.
We have no CAN info for the E60.
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12 hours ago, caleb9 said:
with a voltmeter and in PCLink, the voltage didn't drop from cranking
Most digital voltmeters average over about a 500ms time period, so way too slow to see the short spikes of low voltage that occur during cranking.
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No that ecu will not be suitable for that model. None of the CAN bus stuff will work - instruments, ABS, climate control etc, and the ecu doesnt have enough outputs for the dual vanos and e-throttle.
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What sensor do you actually have? Most likely that error high value is set too low, but you also need to confirm the calibration matches your sensor curve too.
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Files attached. When the PDM software tells you the configuration contains a layout choose yes so you will see my memo explaining the logic.
In the ECU virtual aux 2 controls your fuel pump and virtual aux 3 controls the water pump.
BCM_HRC_ProX_55_Gas_senecafalls V1.1.pclr HRC2 Forum V1.1.pdmc
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It is a plug-in ecu, it is designed to work with the factory wiring, you dont need to change anything. The only recommended change would be to add an air temp sensor if your car doesnt have one from factory.
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You cant use a keypad directly with a G4+, you will need something such as a PDM to handle the button logic and control the LED's etc. The cheapest option i know of is micropdm.com
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Its not quite as simple as just turning it on, you would generally want to do some controlled validation using audio knock gear to make sure it does actually detect knock and it doesnt detect events that arent knock.
But basic settings below will be a starting point. Set retard limit to zero while you are getting it dialed in so it is not taking any action - just giving you data. Adjust the main Gain channel so you have an average knock level of around 100-300 at medium RPM/medium load. Adjust the individual cyl knock level gains so the average knock level on each cylinder is about the same.
Initially set the knock target table up as just a basic 2D table with RPM on the axis. Put values in here based on the typical noise levels you are seeing in logs at each RPM breakpoint. Your knock target would typically be set about 20-30% higher than the normal noise level for that RPM.
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Whats the voltage on the TPS sub pin for open and closed?
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2 hours ago, Kenneth Yu said:
Its saying 212F. Its just completely not reading correctly. Any idea how to troubleshoot the sensor?
Start by doing a log and looking at the voltage reported on the AN Volt pin that it is wired too and that will give you a clue.
2 hours ago, Kenneth Yu said:I guess the question is it wont do anything to the leveler or fuel pump hat if i put a voltage on it is what i mean
How has the fuel level sensor go anything to do with the fuel pump?
2 hours ago, Kenneth Yu said:Also i am still using the fuel level guage in my stock dash as welll so not sure puttimg coltage on it will mess up anything?
You likely wont be able to connect the ecu and stock gauge, the ecu can only measure to 5V, the factory gauges usually use a 12V pull-up.
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If you attach your ecu and pdm config and a list of what you want communicated between them we can probably set it up for you.
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Doesnt sound like you have an issue to me. Possibly the arming threshold is a little high when cranking speed is slow.
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59 minutes ago, Kenneth Yu said:
I have an IAT from LinkECU and recently its starting to register out of range throwing an error.
What to you mean by that? What are the error values set to and which one does it exceed?
1 hour ago, Kenneth Yu said:My question is wouldn't that electrify the entire circuit leading to the pump level or it doesn't really do anything?
Yes that is what a pull up does, you are effectively creating a voltage divider with a fixed resistor on one side(100ohm), and a variable one on the other side (the fuel level sensor), so your variable resistance is converted into a variable voltage output.
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2 hours ago, Fraser Simpson said:
I assume you already have the code etc since it was working on the G4+ Fury ?
The G4X firmware was a complete wipe the slate clean and start from scratch, it shares nothing with G4+. Having said that I dont think it would be a particularly big or difficult job to add a compatible serial dash stream to the existing serial port options, but as always it is a matter of priorities and resources.
The next few G4X features are already mapped out well in advance and and some have been in progress for quite some time, the firmware engineers are deep in G5 too. I reckon it could be 6 months or more before anyone would be able to dedicate any resources to this feature.
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1 hour ago, Fraser Simpson said:
so why is there still provision for serial stuff under the configuration section for the ECU then ?
The options are in the drop down. The serial port/s currently can be used for coms to PC Link (instead of USB for radio telemetry etc) and for plug-in specific communications such as the Honda dash and imobaliser.
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G4X doesnt currently have a serial dash broadcast. I believe there is hardware present but there has been little (no) requests to support RS232 dash displays so there is no software/firmware to support it.
You could buy something like a powertune dash for the same cost as a new Vnet module so probably better to consider something like that. The cheapest option to make the racepak work would be the "USM", this gives you 4 hard wired inputs - ie, RPM, coolant etc.
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The MAP sensor setting needs to be set to match the actual sensor that is fitted. You can confirm you have the correct setting by viewing the MAP runtime in the software with the engine off, it should show about 101Kpa assuming you are not too far off sea level if the correct setting is selected.
The idle hunting is likely not related, possibly ignition table, closed loop lambda or idle speed control settings.
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Yep im sure thats the same one i've used. I dont know why they use the term "data link", they arent, one is just a PWM control signal from the ecu that changes the voltage set point (ie they charge at a higher voltage on a cold morning etc), the other is just an electrical load signal from the alternator to the ecu - probably used in part of the OEM idle control strategy.
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Subtract 1.0ms from that whole dwell table that you have in your first post (click in grey cell at top left then type "-1" and hit enter), this would be right on what I would start with. Rarely do these coils need more than about 3.0ms for typical applications, you can go right up to about 9ms when needed (ie 70+psi & methanol) but they are pulling 20A each at that and get very hot fast. Use the minimum dwell you need to prevent misfire, any more is just making more heat and shortening life.
The spark duration setting is irrelevent in most 4cyl applications, it only really comes into play with say a single coil on a v8 where you need to dwell & spark the same coil 8 times every cycle. This setting is used so the ecu can shorten the dwell when there is not enough cycle time left for both full dwell and spark.
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Leave all settings alone, do a trigger scope and attach it here.
Question regarding PINs for Toyota MR2 V2-3 & Celica (ST205)
in G4+
Posted
One of the expansion ports would be the easiest. There is no spare temp input on the expansion connectors though so you will have to use a AN Volt for the temp with a pull-up resistor in the wiring.