Adamw
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Posts posted by Adamw
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There are many limitations such as the fuel level that is already mentioned, only a basic set of ecu channels, no custom CAN, no CAN transmit, icons/indicators cant be controlled by the ecu (only hard wired inputs), and I think only 4 inputs and no outputs.
I would suggest you download their software, then choose "load defaults" and choose the link configuration, then try to set up each screen to do what you want to check if it is actually possible.
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No, the BOV will not have any effect on the idle or stalling with the link ECU since the link doesnt use the MAF. Only the ecu's which use a MAF get affected by an open/vented BOV as that type of system assumes all the air that has been measured by the MAF enters the engine, but with an open BOV some of that air is lost to atmosphere. So you end up to much fuel injected for the amount of air that is entering the engine.
In contrast, with most aftermarket ecus you are using manifold pressure to determine the mass of air entering the engine, since the leaking BOV is before the manifold, it doesnt effect manifold pressure, therefore doesnt cause incorrect determination of the air flow.
So if you want to fix the actual problem that is/was causing the stalling you would be best to do the log that I asked for earlier.
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What ECU do you have?
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Both can be on the same bus. The CAN lambda runs at 1MB/s by default which is actually allowed in the OBD2 standards, but most OBD2 dongles only support 250 or 500Kb/s, so I would suggest reprograming the CAN lambda to run at 500K then both will be happy. Instructions for doing that are in the help file section named "CAN Devices". OBD2 set up is just a matter of selecting the radio button in the CAN set up screen.
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Are you only clicking the capture button when the engine is cranking- not before?
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Not possible to view DI's in the trigger scope in G4+, those pins arent connected to the scope hardware.
If you go to the VVT settings and set cam angle test to LH inlet with the test pulse count set to 4, then watch the 4 absolute cam angles in the runtimes screen while slowly increasing RPM, if they stay reasonably stable (say within +/-1deg) then the polarity is correct, if you get significant drift as RPM increases the polarity in wrong.
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The set up instructions are in the ICC software helpfile, I think it might be labelled as "Link G4" or similar but it is pretty much the same. The only small difference is where they say to choose "transmit displaylink", in G4X you instead choose "Transmit Generic Dash 2".
Last I heard IC7 didnt have a fuel level input but they said they were going to enable it later so that might have happened already, that is really a question to ask them.
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With the old MXL dashes they have a fixed, pre-configured CAN template so make sure it has all the channels you want (basically only a small selection of what is in the generic dash stream). I will see if I can get a pic. Also the old RS2 logging software was fairly capable, but wasnt particularly nice to use for data analysis.
You will only be able to display and log the below list from the ecu, + I think the pro has 8 analog inputs, 4 digital that could be used in the dash (not sent back to ecu):
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First of all please detail exactly what ecu you actually have. We made about 30 different "Link G4 ECU's" so it is important to know what you have.
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Can you try attaching those files again. Are the files showing as .pcl and .llg on your computer?
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You would really want an experienced tuner involved for a function that will easily destroy an engine or turbo if set up wrong.
First of all, do you have a pedal box/no brake booster and pre turbine EGT sensor?
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2 hours ago, Abed.Adham said:
I have an extra USB tuning cable so what I was thing is the following
Get a usb extension cable, connect it to the tuning cable and cut the otherside ' only cause i don't want to damage the tuning cable' so now I have 2 data cables coming out of the CAN port, then I will put 120R Rsistant in parallel between the data wires, then connect it to a bluetooth OD2 and power it with 12 volts direct.
Do you think that will work?
Why dont you just wire directly to CAN2?
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Can you load the attached ecu log set and do a similar test then download the ecu log. The PC log is a bit slow to see enough detail but it appears to show the pedal (APS) only reducing at about the same time as the spike in RPM. This maybe something to do with the weird cable set up that the altezzas have.
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AFR Target
in G4x
I notice you have really large VE numbers at idle and I have seen this before with a couple of other users with ID1050X injectors. So Im suspicious that the ID supplied deadtimes may be a bit off when using Link drivers (they use Motec M1's for their characterisation). So you will probably find more error at idle and it will work better at higher loads.
A couple of things I noticed in your tune which changing will probably help this error a tiny bit:
- Your deadtime table has fuel pressure on the Y axis, it should instead be differential fuel pressure (Pressure across the injector is what affects deadtimes).
- I think the Stoich ratio for E30 should be more like 13.0, that is assuming Eth is 9.0 and petrol is 14.7 and we are using a 30/70 split between those.
I would experiment with increasing the deadtimes a little to see if you can get this open loop target correction working better and more realistic VE numbers around idle. I would typically expect VE of 50-65% at idle, you have 78ish.
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We have a 2UR in house which I suspect is probably similar, but it has a G5 on it so the PID values wont be much good. I could possibly test with a G4+ if you get stuck though.
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8 hours ago, JasonK said:
The distributor was graphed to suit the engine specs.
If the ecu is controlling the ignition the distributor should be locked.
It looks like your coils are GM LS*.
The way you interpret the water pump table is to think of the numbers in there as "Percent max speed". So for example at 1000RPM your water pump will be at 33% speed with a cold engine, until the coolant reaches 60°C, after that it ramps up to 66% by 70°C and from there ramps up to 99% at 90°C. So the pump is doing max speed at 90°C already.
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Note the "A" in the acronym MAP stands for Absolute. 0 absolute pressure is a total vacuum, you cant have negative absolute. The dash2pro stream sends MGP so it is wrong for the original realdash xml to use target ID 31 which is Manifold Absolute Pressure. In my set up I was sending MAP from the ecu rather than MGP so that it matched the ID31 with no "-100" offset.
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Just do a manual calibration. Turn the E-throttle relay off, push the throttle blade fully closed, type in the closed voltages, then push it fully open and type in the open voltages.
What ECU are you working with?
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It will need a lot more than just turning on. Yes you should see knock levels reported once you enable it, and set the appropriate settings, allocate trim tables etc. But that wont tell you anything about knock - Every part of the knock control function will need tuning and validating before you can assume it is working correctly and use it as a safety, this is usually done by an experienced tuner with a dyno and audio knock equipment. This is usually done as one of the last steps when the rest of the ecu tune is optimised.
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The problem is your intake cam is about 20degs more advanced from where it should be, this is causing one of the sync edges to cross over the sync point.
In the pic below, blue is crank, green is cam, the yellow cursor line is the sync point where the ecu starts counting cam teeth. You can see I have put a little pink line on the offending cam edge, notice how close this is to the yellow line. If the cam moves just 1 deg further to the left the ecu will then see less teeth on the right side of that line than it should. That pink line usually has a good 20 deg margin away from the sync point.
Looking at internet pictures of EJ cam sprockets it looks like they have about 48 teeth, so if you move it one tooth backwards (~15deg) that should put the cam timing closer to where it should be and solve the trigger issue.
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The factory sensor is connected to the ecu dedicated knock input pin, you dont need to change any wiring or add any sensors.
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16 minutes ago, JasonK said:
regraphed electronic distributor
What do you mean by regraphed? Does it still have mechanical advance in it? What coils do you have?
Configure Thermo Fan On Off status Output So it can be read by IC7 Dash
in G4x
Posted
Unfortunately the Haltech dash can not do custom CAN, you are stuck with the limited set of fixed channels that they have given you. You could possibly fudge it at the link end by sending aux 3 status in place of the "cyclic idle active" channel or something else that you are not using. Im not sure how the dash lets you display that though.