Adamw
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Posts posted by Adamw
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For the temp cal "Std Bosch NTC", for the press cal G4X has a dedicated calibration "Bosch 10Bar 0261 230 340"
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Your trigger 1 voltage is borderline, just barely making 0.2V. Some of that will be because your battery voltage is quite low and it is cranking slow. So just charging the battery will probably be all it needs to get it happy, but ideally you would want to improve that trigger voltage so it can still start in the future next time the battery is low. Trigger 2 looks fine as is. Reducing the air gap between the sensor and toothed wheel will increase the voltage so see if you can do that, I think I remember the 4A had some adjustment on the pick-ups - if not you can often move them a bit by slotting the mounting holes a little or similar. You can go right down to about 0.2mm air gap if needed.
With trig 1 voltage improved you should then have consistent RPM in the software when cranking and you should have a spark, so the next step is to get a timing light on it to confirm timing is in the ballpark. If timing looks close enough but you still have no signs of life then it probably means you are sparking on the exhaust stroke so change the trigger offset by 360deg to correct that..
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Contact [email protected] so they can raise a ticket, they will give you a form to fill out and instructions were to send it etc.
Typically you would only need to return it to your closest Link warehouse and they would do a basic test to confirm the fault then ship back to NZ for repair. Even DHL is taking about 1 week each way at the moment so probably 3 weeks is about what I would expect. If you are in a hurry then you could ship directly to NZ to cut out a couple of steps.
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This is the one I hear of most often: https://all4swap.ru/product/is300
There is another one but I cant remember who does it.
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What is the actual question? It is a plug-in designed for the Altezza, so of course it will run the Altezza hardware.
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20 hours ago, orlando bello said:
You manage to communicate on toyota Can Bean network.? I have a Altezza with a 1jzgte swap going Link fury gx4 to do soon .
You will need to use the Altezza plug-in or one of the 3rd party BEAN converters.
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The modification works out very similar cost wise, possibly a little cheaper depending on shipping. I know some of our europe offices are set up to do this work but I dont think our US office is yet doing this service, check with tech support. The bonus with the modification compared to the external module is you will gain a couple of aux outputs and they will usually add a couple of extra analog inputs at the same time on ECU's that dont have a lot of spares.
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For the starting fuel, can you try the settings below.
For the trigger, your design and engineering looks good, but there is still something going on that the ecu is not happy with sometimes, I think maybe we just havent caught it yet in trigger scopes. Is this engine quite high compression ratio?
Can you do a few more trigger scopes, try clicking the capture button just a tiny amount before cranking so we see the first revolution on the crank.
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This is pretty normal and not much you can do about it. This is due to two factors - 1 is your fuel is injected into the port on the cycle prior to induction. So you have the correct amount of fuel sitting in your intake port for the amount of air that was ingested last cycle, but if you suddenly close the throttle then you have a lot less air going in for the amount of fuel that has already been injected. The second factor is "wall wetting" of "fuel film", there is always a significant volume of fuel "clinging to the ports walls - not being burnt - when you suddenly close the throttle you get higher vacuum in the port which evaporates more of that fuel film that was previously sitting there not being combusted.
Since in both cases the fuel was already sitting in the port, there is not much the ecu can do to correct it. Some ecu's have a "deceleration enleanment" type function (basically opposite of accel enrichment) which can help it "catch up" quicker, but you will always have that initial rich spike.
Having said that, yours looks like it sits rich in overrun for longer than normal though so you probably need smaller values in the overrun area of your fuel table. Possibly add another row at -80kpa to get rid of any interpolation with the -70row which is possibly passed through at light cruise.
The 2 sec delay on ORFC is not unusual.
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What is the engine? Can you attach a photo of the trigger set up?
I still think there maybe 2 different issues here, one is the ecu doesnt appear to be happy about the trigger signal sometimes. The second is there doesnt appear to be enough fuel. In the "starts normally" log there are no trigger errors and inj PW is about 6ms at the start of cranking. In the "bad starting" log there are trigger errors increasing every start attempt, the dwell times are stretched and inj pw is only about 3.8ms.
Your injector dead time is also very short - only about 0.1ms which is very odd. This likely isnt part of your problem but it probably means you are getting even less fuel than what it shows.
Can you attach a copy of your tune also.
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If the press switch is open circuit that would generally mean the pressure is too high or too low. Most commonly too low due to a leak.
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The plug-in ECU's are made up of two main parts; the "top board" which is the the "brains" and has most of important electronics, then the "bottom board" which is basically an adapter to connect all the top board inputs and outputs to the factory connector as well as all the extra electronics that are needed to interface with various circuits that may be unique to the chassis.
So in this case, the top board does actually have all the electronics on it to drive electronic throttle, but the bottom board is one of our older designs that doesnt give the user access to the specific DBW outputs.
So two options: 1. The ecu can be returned to Link to have some flying leads added to make these outputs available. 2. You can wire in the external E-throttle module instead.
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Only the G4X Fury has an onboard Lambda controller, any other ecu will require a external wideband controller. G4 needs a controller that outputs a 0-5V analog output. The sensor is irrelevant to the ecu, you need to use the sensor that your controller is designed for.
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In G4X you do the setup in the function that you want to use rather than on the pin like you did in our older ecu's. So for example if you want aux 5 to control the fuel pump, you dont go to aux 5 and assign fuel pump to that pin - you instead go to the fuel pump function and set aux 5 as the output there. This is to allow things like CAN or math functions etc to be used and inputs and outputs.
For a switched cam this is done as a GP output, so go to Aux outputs>GP output>GP output 1, set your output to inj 6 and your activation conditions.
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What engine is this? Is the trigger system factory? The high dwell means the ecu is receiving large variations in "tooth spacing" from trigger 1.
I think there is currently something wrong with the first crank prime parameter, somebody else reported the other day it is not working.
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Did you turn the pull-up on?
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Ok, I think in this case it will be best to email [email protected]. There is an updated USB cable and possibly your ECU has the older USB circuit that could be updated.
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Yes we have been working on CAN support for the 2015+ STI. I have most of it working, so far I have only tested on 3 local cars 2015-2018 and I think they are all NZDM models. On two of those cars everything seems to work correctly, on the 3rd car the boost gauge seems to read incorrectly sometimes so I still need to go back and do more investigation on that.
I will send you some test software to try for us as it would be nice to confirm that it works in a JDM model. I will just get the software assembled into a more user friendly installer package and will private message you when I have it.
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The Audi TT base map should be close enough.
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Are your spark plugs resistor type? Can you attach a copy of your tune.
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The transmit error counter is most likely because you are still transmitting the dash stream to a device that is not present.
Can you turn both the keypad and dash channels off and try find devices again. Your ecu does have the latest firmware right?
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You cant have any devices running at different bit rates on the same bus so you will need to unplug the dash until you get the keypad re-programmed.
Trigger Offset 3S-GTE
in G4+
Posted
You need to click on the "set base timing" option.