Adamw
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Posts posted by Adamw
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Do you have any errors showing in the CAN tab of the runtimes screen when that happens? What else is connected on the same bus and what bit rate are you running? I vaguely remember seeing this before in our car but I dont remember what it was.
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Yeah that's a bit of an unusual one, nothing too obvious there. Can you try changing the orange cells in your ignition table to match the example below as a test. This will probably make it feel a bit lazy but I just want to see if it is torque related or misfire related.
And the other thing I would try is making it a lot richer in that area - like change the target to say 0.9lambda as a test. It maybe that one or two cylinders are leaner than the rest and start to misfire when trying to target stoich.
Can you try turning the purge output off as a test as well.
How come it is running wasted spark?
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When does this disconnection happen? Only under load? Do you still have a beams engine or is it an engine swap application?
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Most analog tachos are very inaccurate. Some have significant lag also, so they are less accurate under heavy acceleration than they are at lower acceleration. There is a multiplier in the tacho settings that you can use to adjust its span but I would say your 300Rpm error at redline is probably already better than most.
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Yes of course you will need a PC to set up the ecu. You will ideally want coils with built in ignitors such as K20 or 1NZ toyota etc, connect the ground wires to the cylinder head, install a ignition switched relay to supply 12V to the coils, and run the trigger wires back to the ecu. The coil on cyl#1 connects to Ign 1, cyl#2 to ign 2, etc. In the ecu you will need to change ignition mode to direct spark, set up the dwell table appropriate for the coils and reset base timing and ignition delay.
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I dont think any of your issues are related to the bootloader, the ecu is obviously booting up if PC Link is connecting and you can record a log. I see two potential problems in your log:
- For the first and second start attempt it took a long time before dwell was commanded, this suggests maybe an issue with the trigger. Also, just at the beginning of cranking on the second start attempt the RPM dropped to zero briefly and the trigger error counter clocked up a few counts. However the battery voltage jumped up at the same time so maybe this was something like the driver slipping off the ign switch or starter button? Please do a trigger scope while cranking so we can look if there are any clues in there.
- Considering your temperature is quite cold, you have very little (no) extra fuel going in during cranking. When your engine starts on the third try, it is idling with an injector pulse width of 4.3ms, and that is giving a lambda leaner than target. However when cranking you only have 3.7ms! At cold temperatures most engines need a lot more fuel to get started - it is more typical to see 100-300% extra when cranking. So I would expect your engine would want more like 10ms pulse width when cranking. This may explain some of your symptoms as every time you power cycle the ignition you would get a new dose of "pre-crank prime" which after a few goes may give you enough fuel to start.
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If D14 has 12V but D16 is not being grounded by the ecu, that would suggest the main relay control FET on the bottom board has been fried. The ECU will need to come back to Link for repair. Contact [email protected] for instructions.
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Those injectors would be pretty small, I would guess probably ~300cc. Change the master fuel to 25ms to see if giving it more fuel gives any more signs of life.
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Set bit rate to 250K and ID to 394 then go to can devices and try Find devices, if it is found then click on it and "send default Coms".
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It looks like the ecu is happy with the trigger now, although cranking RPM is a bit slower than expected. Can you give a bit of detail about the engine - what size injectors etc.
1 hour ago, felare said:Could you tell me how you knew that the cam sensor was wired wrong? Something about the shape of the waveform?
Have a look t the help file page >Wiring Information > Input Signal Wiring > Trigger Inputs > Reluctor/Magnetic Sensors. The waveform should first rise as the tooth approaches the sensor, then sharply fall through zero (zero crossing is the exact center of the tooth), then negative voltage as the tooth moves away from the sensor. If you look at the single tooth on your cam it will be most obvious that yours goes negative first, then rises across zero.
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I will PM you some info.
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Can you attach a copy of your tune, a short log of it cranking and a trigger scope capture when cranking.
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He was talking about CAN 2 on the ADU, not the ecu. The ECU has termination resistors builtin on both CAN ports.
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The Y axis of the pressure compensation table is not lambda, it is the % change in measured current that was required to drive the ion pump, often designated "pump current" or "Ip". Ip is related to lambda, but not directly. You need both the sensor temperature and the Ip passed through a lookup table to derive Lambda. The relationship of temperature and Ip to lambda is not linear or even close to linear - a 5% change in Ip is not a 5% change in lambda.
FYI that datasheet you have is also for an ADV sensor, not the 4.9. The 4.9 is actually much less sensitive to pressure, it has a max Ip difference of about 15% at 2.5Bar.
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There are actually quite a few idle related settings I dont like in your map. I would copy the following list of settings out of our WRX V11 base map as much better starting points (FYI, you can open 2 instances of PC Link up side by side to copy settings across more easily): APS/TPS lockout, RPM Lockout above target, all settings in idle ign control menu, Dashpot offset/hold/decay (dashpot can be quite different engine to engine), Deadband & Integral gain.
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CAN Keypad functionality was added a few months ago. Any Blink CANOpen version should work, avoid the J1939 ones as they take a bit more work to reprogram.
https://linkecu.com/new-features-available-for-g4x-products/
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In >analog inputs>lambda 1, do you have the control set to Link CAN? If that is not it you will need to attach your tune and a log.
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It could be 20 different things. Will need to see the log and tune.
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The cam sensor is wired incorrect polarity. You need to swap the +/- wires at the cam sensor plug.
Your trigger voltage is quite low also, so I would lower the arming thresholds a little to this example:
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Is it a CAN open version? Have you set the bit rate to match what the keypad was supplied with?
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If no cam sensor, your injector wiring is ok, you will just have to set injection mode to multipoint group. The ignition coils will have to be rewired in pairs to Ign drives 1 & 2 and ignition mode will have to be set to wasted spark.
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What im suggesting is to set up logging now before it fails so you can see if there are any clues in there - ie you may find the heaters are constantly resetting due to an inadequate or intermittent power supply, or the probe temp is running away due to an exhaust restriction etc. .
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11 hours ago, [email protected] said:
I run ITB throttles on the beams 3sge. That is why I have tuned the mainfuel table with Throttle Position as the main axis and not MAP. When you say "because you have the Fuel equation load source set to BAP" and "you must use MAP as the equation load source" are you saying I should charge my main fuel map axis to map and not throttle position or are you speaking of another table for example a cold start table?
No, just change the setting "Equation load source" from BAP to MAP.
11 hours ago, [email protected] said:Is there a way I can use the air bypass valve and control it by time. For example for the first 2 mins that the engine is running idle at 1200 and then after that close and I could have the idle bypass screw that is part of the pwm valve set to a base idle of 850 rpm?
Is there a better way to do the cold start warmup idle with ITBs than useing a air bypass valve?
You dont need to reinvent the wheel, just change the load source to MAP so the fuel equation can automatically compensate for air that is bypassing the throttle. We use this method on all ITB engines with idle valves and it generally works well, GTR's, GTiR's, many BMW's etc all use this strategy.
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Connect to ecu. Go to >ecu controls>trigger scope. Crank the engine, click the capture button in the triggerscope screen while the engine is cranking. Save the trigger scope file, attach here.
any way to add a 5th temp input on thunder?
in G4+
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