Adamw
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Posts posted by Adamw
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It would be best to attach your current map that is used to generate the log, then we have the both parts of the "cause and effect". Randomly swapping maps without trying to diagnose what is wrong in the first place usually isnt the fastest way to a solution.
7 minutes ago, Shawneboy said:pic won't attach says the file is too large
upload to a picture host such as https://imgur.com/ and paste the link here.
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3 hours ago, Murg_e30 said:
2.I want to use Latched Launch RPM and 3D Launch RPM Table. Can you recommend how to do it.
The only way you can do this is use the launch control function for the latched launch, and use a GP limit table for the 3D launch table. The Power management function could probably be used to achieve the 3D launch also.
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Not if you want CAN comunication between the PDM and ECU. There is no CAN receive in the G4 and the CAN transmit was quite limited, it only has a couple of fixed pre-configured streams that are designed for dash displays so dont have any channels that are required for a PDM.
Of course you could still use it standalone with the ECU auxes connected to AIDO's to trigger fuel pumps, fans etc.
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You havent attached a trigger scope or your map. You have attached 2 logs, one with nothing in it and one with the engine running so its obviously got a trigger signal.
2 hours ago, Shawneboy said:Backed it off to 10 btdc calibrated computer at 10 btdc. results slow cranking like timing is way off and mixed trigger signal.
It is not clear what you are doing, trigger calibration is described in the help file. If you have the engine running and the "set base timing screen" open, with the first box "lock timing to" set to 10BTDC, then you adjust the offset up or down until your timing light shows the 10deg mark lined up. Be aware you need to hit enter every time you change the offset if you are typing it in manually.
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The crank sensor is wired back to front, this will likely cause a trigger errors, difficult starting and large timing drift. Swap the +/- wires at the crank sensor plug and set base timing again.
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Attach the trigger scope and a copy of your tune. If Trig 1 signal says "no" but you see a waveform that means the waveform is not meeting what has been defined as a valid signal. Most likely either not crossing zero or not reaching the arming threshold or both. But a bit hard to guess with no data.
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You had 20ms of pw in the cranking log so the ecu is commanding enough fuel to at least show some signs of life. That doesnt mean there is fuel pressure etc though.
A squirt of starter fluid will confirm if you have a fuel issue or not.
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I think the physical connection would be the easy bit, you would have all the CAN bus stuff to reverse engineer first to allow this to work, as well as I think nearly all W211's are auto trans so there would need to be a lot of reverse engineering of the trans control system too.
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We generally try to keep backwards compatibility in our firmware updates, but in this case the control logic needed such large changes and deeper integration with limiters, throttle control etc, so it was not possible.
You should still be able to duplicate the same shift strategy with the new system though. If you attach your old and new map Im happy to set it up for you.
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Did you change any settings between those two logs?
In that trigger scope it doesnt look happy at all, you can see from the trigger 1 state runtime the ecu started looking for the the missing tooth at about tooth#56 (instead of 58), that would mean either the settings were wrong at that time or it had seen 2 "extra teeth" such as spikes of electrical noise due to some other wiring issue. The cam sensor is not working at all in the trigger scope either.
But in the cranking log the trigger looks like it was ok, happy with the tooth count and trigger 2 says it has a signal too.
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Is there still a mechanical regulator in these systems or does this injector do all the press control? Do you know if they usually only vary duty cycle or frequency as well?
So electrically it will work with a ballast as you have found, but with a ballast those will be very slow to open and that opening time will vary a lot based on voltage on the other side of the injector, but the closing time will be similar or faster than it would be with a P&H driver. Deadtime is opening time - closing time, so with a ballast the deadtime will be very long and quite variable. I dont know what duty cycle these would typically operate at, but as duty cycles get small or frequency gets big they are going to give poor control. So for example your fuel pressure will change a lot when electrical load changes such as a fan or headlights turn on.
My initial thought was it would be best to run this device using the closed loop fuel pressure control function (rather than as an injector) so you then have a 3D feedfoward table, a PID control loop for very quick and stable response, and a 3d fuel pressure target table. You could have CLL correction on one axis of the target table so you have lambda feedback. This function uses a fixed frequency, so that means you could choose a relatively low frequency so that the deadtime was a smaller proportion of the pulse width required therefore having less influence on the result.
But if you needed to vary the frequency for some reason (I dont know if these were normally timed to any mechanical event) then you would probably have to run it as an injector (using the normal fuel table etc), which would effectively only give proportional only control and im less confident that would give what I consider acceptable control.
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If you have a 3 wire oil pressure sensor, then 5V to one pin, sensor ground to the other, signal pin connected to any spare analog input. The tacho to any spare aux output. The water temp gauge would usually have its own sensor, not connected to the ecu. Oil press gauge maybe able to spare the sensor with the ecu but it will depend on the type of gauge.
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Whats the resistance of the injector? From memory the K-jet runs around 6bar pressure and with a ballast resistor added I would have some doubt that the old style ev1 which is designed for P&H drivers would open reliably or predictably at that pressure.
For the ignition you would really want to lock the distributor and have all advance done by the ecu. A spot of MIG on the advance mechanism locks them pretty quick.
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Again your logs have no data so you are doing something wrong there.
But it looks like you havent adjusted the master fuel. If you have stock or smallish injectors then that will need to be much bigger than it is now.
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The offset is usually around 40 on the M52 but I would still try -331 as well if there is no signs of life. I assume you have fitted the M50TU cam sensor?
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53 minutes ago, Victorgaragesmg said:
So injection mode is always banked when no home is present ?
The ECU will still allow you to set the injection mode to sequential, but without a cam signal the ecu doesnt know whether it is on intake stroke or power stroke so the injection event will sometimes be correct and will sometimes be 360deg out.
57 minutes ago, Victorgaragesmg said:Semi seq need home ?
Yes, sequential or semi-sequential means the injection event is synchronous to the engine cycle, the fuel will be injected at the same point in regards to engine cycle every time. You need a cam sensor to determine position in a cycle that is 720 degrees.
1 hour ago, Victorgaragesmg said:If i use the home signal. How should i wire the injectors then ?
Like firing order pair ?
The 1UZ doesnt have a great firing order for true semi-sequential, but it still gives an improvement over multipoint group. Explained in the help file with an example for a 1UZ:
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The signal in those just comes from a sensor (or possibly reed switch) in the back of the speedo. So provided the stock dash is still there and the speedo is working it may suggest either a wire has broken somewhere or the sensor in the speedo has failed.
A lot of Nissans and Toyotas from that era had reed switches which have a finite life so a lot of those are failing now.
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It wont matter. Most of the BEAN converters that I have seen arent even CAN, they just connect to regular analog sensors, so it may not even need CAN.
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-40deg C charge temp is adding about a further 25% fuel enrichment. If the sensor is not connected you should set your error value to something more realistic.
I just looked closer at your APS issue, if that is coming from the HTG you have something set up very wrong there, ANV 10 & 11 only step between 2 voltages, either both 0 or straight the WOT voltage. APS sub is calibrated with the open voltage at 0.45V and the closed voltage at 0.45V so thats why it is randomly dancing around.
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This car would originally have had a factory "boost solenoid" already wired to the ecu, usually you would just replace it with the aftermarket one using the wiring that is already there.
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If you only have a crank trigger and no cam sensor then you cant run semi-sequential, you will need to use multipoint group (injectors will fire in two groups alternatively). If using multipoint then wire 2 injectors of 1 bank to inj 1 and the other 2 injectors on the same bank to inj 2. Then on bank 2, 2 injectors to Inj 3, 2 injectors to Inj 4.
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A couple of extra things I noticed:
- IAT is faulted and reading -40°C
- APS sub wiring or sensor is flaky and signal disappears regularly.
- Throttle action looks a bit weird - was it actually your foot commanding WOT everytime you crank or a wiring issue?
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I dont think the knock excition will be related. It looks like the cam input is seeing extra pulses for some reason. This is really going to need a proper scope to see what is going on, it may just be a noise issue or it could be something random like a bump or void in the cam casting or similar.
On 1/28/2023 at 2:47 AM, MGV101 said:I don't have an oscilloscope YET but is strongly considering getting one. I really don't trust those super cheap no name brands but getting anything from a reputable brand is very expensive.
A picoscope 2204A can be had for ~USD150, these are very good and probably the best option around that money. If you want something cheaper then the Owon VDS1022 is about the best option. Avoid the cheap Hanteks, they have no capture memory and the triggering sucks. As well as the scope, for automotive testing you will want a few accessories, the Hantek accesories are reasonably priced and easy to get. Here is my suggestion that will give you a good useful diagnostic tool:
- At least one 20:1 attenuator (HT201), you need this to reduce the high voltage spike that you get when testing something like an injector or primary ign down to a level that a scope can handle.
- Two BNC to banana leads. There are automotive specific ones like HT30A which are handy due to the 3M length. Or you can get generic 1M length ones that will still do the job for a bit cheaper.
- A set of backprobes. Something like HT307, get the thin pin like ones not the threaded ones.
- At least two banana alligator clips. A couple of different sizes is good, you want something that will clip on a battery terminal and maybe something that can clip on a small wire or connector terminal. I have a couple of HT18A and something like P2007.
ez30d wont start
in G4x
Posted
Your triggerscope shows the crank sensor is wired back to front. Swap the +/- wires at the crank sensor plug and re-set the base timing and you will be one step closer.
I dont personally have a known working EZ30 map to give you - or even one that I have made up and may be close enough to work.
Obviously a different map isnt going to fix the wiring problem, and its a whole lot of work to reconfigure all the IO assignments and sensor calibrations in someone elses map to match your wiring, but if you did really want to change the map, a quick search for "ez30" using the search box at the top of the G4X forum found two from running engines, one here: https://forums.linkecu.com/topic/14250-ez30-subaru-vtec-problem/?do=findComment&comment=91488
And another here: https://forums.linkecu.com/topic/15483-subaru-fuel-pump-control/