Adamw
-
Posts
20,581 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1,321
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Adamw
-
-
The pull-up should be on. The DI connects to the reed switch in the speedo, the other side of the reed switch just connects to ground. If it always reads 0 with the pull-up on then you have a problem with the sensor or wiring.
-
Are you sure you attached the correct map? There is not even any idle valve assigned in that map and idle ign is turned off, so you have no idle control working at all.
What model is this? a V4?
-
The oil pressure gauge and ecu would likely be able to share the same sensor assuming it is a 3 wire sensor.
-
Im pretty sure it is just your warmup enrichment a bit on the low side.
Try something like this:
-
If the fuel and oil pressure use 3 wire sensors then they are ok to share the signal. I wouldnt waste my time if they use the old 2 wire VDO style sensors. Oil temp would be ok if you connect to an AN Volt input (not temp input). The wideband gauge should have a dedicated 0-5V output that is designed to be connected to the ecu.
-
Have you got your MAP sensor working? Have you checked base timing? These are the most important and very first things you need right.
2 hours ago, Aram said:does the trigger scope attached look normal to you? I applied filtering from level1 to 4 with no impact.
Yes it is fine. Filtering should be on level 1 for a 60-2 wheel.
On 2/5/2023 at 9:19 AM, Aram said:does it use Celcius or F?
Display units are your choice, hotkey "U" will quickly swap between unit sets, or go to >options>units>options for more specific settings.
-
350z lambda
in G4x
4 hours ago, kevin p said:How do you clear your attachments files on the forum?
It is nicer if you dont. If anyone is looking for help on the same topic in future and find old related posts, they are a lot less helpful when all the relevant files have been deleted.
-
As a general comment yes, if you are willing to put in the time to experiment with frequency and build a PWM table to match the gauge calibration. But an Atom only has 4 aux outputs so they are usually a fairly precious resource (tacho, fuel pump and fan have taken 3 already). Aftermarket temp gauges generally come with a sensor that the gauge is already configured for so in my opinion its a bit of a waste of time calibrating it all yourself and a waste of an output just to save a single extra wire. Personally I would rather use the output for something more important like a combined driver warning lamp/shift light or similar.
-
Set it to 6KHz narrow initially and if you get lots of random knock level spikes that arent related to knock then try something different.
The calculated frequency is not always useful.
-
The flare after startup is most likely the start-up step too high. Try halving that to see if it helps.
For the rev hang coming to a stop - yes a lot of that should improve if you lift the idle ign RPM lockout up to around 1700, and the speed lockout up to about 20kmh.
I would probably change idle control over to closed loop also, your open loop stuff all looks pretty good so it shouldnt need much extra work to get closed loop working nice.
-
Oil temp sensor is not even connected to the ecu in those as far as I know. ECT looks like it is working to me in your log.
MAP will be most of your issue. The MAP sensor is on the ECU board, have you run a vacuum hose to the ecu?
The MAF doesnt matter.
-
5 hours ago, deltakatsu said:
Another question: Is there a reason I'd have two Lambda inputs? It looks like they're being averaged together to my untrained eye. Or am I seeing it wrong, and I can disregard Lambda 1?
You can have up to 8 lambdas. The Runtime "Lambda Avg" is the average of all connected lambda devices that are working, any that are reading 0 or not set up or reporting errors will not be included in the average calculation. So if you only have Lambda 1 set up and working then the Lambda 1 and Lambda Avg runtimes should read exactly the same, you can use either one.
I agree with essb00, if you really want to stick with an analog controller the spartan 2 would be my pick. AEM X series is usually OK also, probably not quite as reliable as the spartan but generally good. There are others like zeitronix that work well but with no separate analog ground I dont like to recommend them. Innovate was junk in 1998 when it was first released as LC1, the only updates made to the LC2 was the removal of features and cheaper components, firmware and electronics in all their wideband controllers since is just a copy/paste of the LC1. Even if you do get it to read correctly it will only be for a short time since they kill sensors like they are going out of fashion.
-
In that log it is bouncing off the overrun fuel cut which looks like it might be set to around 1400RPM. So that would indicate 2 problems:
- The over-run fuel cut is set too low - I would normally have it up around 17-1800 on a car like this.
- Since it is hitting the over-run fuel cut when its meant to be idling with the throttle closed that means there is enough air entering the engine from somewhere else to acheive more than 1400rpm. This could just be an incorrect idle valve setting or if this problem has just recently developed it could be an air leak or the throttle blade not fully closing.
In the log your idle valve doesnt close more than 25%, so you should still have a little bit of wiggle room to close that valve a bit more. Without your tune it is hard to guess why the valve is not closing any further (assuming it is in closed loop mode). Start by checking the minimum clamp is not set to 25% and the integral gain is not 0. Or attach a copy of your map and I can make some suggestions.
Why is the target idle speed 1200RPM when hot? - that seems a bit extreme unless it is some fairly wild engine?
-
Yes, but that is not a 24-1 in your pic, that is just a plain 24T wheel. This would use multitooth trigger mode. You will need a single pulse from a cam sensor as well for this trigger to work.
-
40 minutes ago, Deklan said:
is taking the signal to volt 6 or di 5/6 of my xs harness going to do the trick?
No, a solenoid needs an aux output, there are none spare on the expansion connector on that ecu.
41 minutes ago, Deklan said:Ill also be wiring in a flex fuel sensor for the future. Am I correct in powering it from 12v switched, the ecu ground and either di 5 or 6 output from xs harness?
Yes.
41 minutes ago, Deklan said:And the fuel pressure sensor signal can be wired to whatever is left over in the xs harness?
The FP signal would go to AN Volt 6 on the expansion, or you could use AN Volt 4 which is in the MAF plug, or AN Volt 1 which is in the O2 sensor plug.
-
Have you tried TPS as the load axis on your trim limit tables? I would have thought if you zeroed at something like <1% TP when above say 2000RPM would take care of all overrun conditions.
-
Cant really tell much from the pic above, it doesnt even have TPS or TPS delta on it so you cant see where the throttle is moving. If you needed more accel fuel for smaller movements without making larger movements too rich then the general idea would be to increase sens and hold and reduce clamp.
-
10 hours ago, Aram said:
once you press capture is activated and capture 1-2 sec and deactivates, is that correct?
Yes, just like single shot mode on an oscilloscope. Again you have a finite memory just like a real scope, you can only capture a short time period at a high sample rate.
10 hours ago, Aram said:re base map, do you know why link has multitooth . I guess based on what you explained earlier m52 won't work but then it makes me wonder why link has m52 when they don't make any plug in ecu's for it
I already explained that in my post above. The M52 has continuously variable vanos so needs a dedicated trigger mode. The M50TU is a simple on/off vanos that doesnt need any cam control. Both engines will start and run with either the Multitooth/missing mode as per our M50 base map, or in M52 mode. The trigger offsets will likely be different between both modes which is why I asked if you have checked the base timing.
10 hours ago, Aram said:other question is do you have any thought on whether i should select rising, falling or all for the sensor?
Which sensor? If you are using a M50 crank sensor then this is a reluctor so you dont even have a choice which edge to use. For trigger 2 edge, this should be set to All for the M52 trigger mode or if you are using multitooth/missing mode then set exactly like out base map.
-
350z lambda
in G4x
No, you will need to fit your own wideband controller and sensor.
-
The ecu looks happy with the trigger now in that scope.
21 minutes ago, Shawneboy said:one more file ......tried to add a log file program says it too big what to do?
Each user gets a storage allowance when they join the forum to make it easy for them to get started. Forum hosts charge a lot for storage though and we have 14000 members here so we keep the allowance fairly conservative. If you are getting an error that the file is too large then you have probably used up all (or most) of your allowance.
The best option is to upload your files to google drive, onedrive, dropbox, wetransfer, or any similar file sharing service and paste a share link to it here.
-
5 minutes ago, Aram said:
the sensors look identical so does the wheel,
If the wheel is the same it should be ok. It is not an engine I know well, but generally from most manufacturers a wheel designed for a hall effect sensor will have flat/wide teeth and a full depth cutout for the missing teeth, whereas a reluctor wheel will have sharper/pointy teeth and a half depth cutout for the missing tooth gap.
8 minutes ago, Aram said:is trigger scope generally unresponsive? Seems very slow
Im not really sure what you mean by that, it works just like any other oscilloscope, the bit you see is only a display, the waveform capture is all done by high speed RAM in the ecu, the scope will try to capture at least 720deg of engine cycle, so that could be a second or 2, after the capture then PC Link will pull the data out of the ecu memory to display it. But it should all happen fairly quickly, I would expect the capture to show on screen within a couple of seconds of clicking capture for most common triggers.
17 minutes ago, Aram said:if i crank but don't click capture, will it still show the graph?
No.
-
1 hour ago, Aram said:
I swapped the loom, water temp sensor from M50 block, Crank and Camshaft sensor from M50 block and car won't start.
The loom is from a M50TUB right? ie OBD1 Vanos? It should be for a M3.3.1. The M50 non vanos uses a M3.1 which has a different pinout again.
Im not sure if the M50 crank sensor will actually work on the M52 crank wheel which is designed for a hall effect sensor but it may. The trigger scope will confirm that.
37 minutes ago, Aram said:should you start cranking and then press capture?
For the triggerscope you need to click capture when the engine is cranking.
1 hour ago, Aram said:I have loaded the base map for G4x and can see it selects the multitooth for trigger and doesn't have anything for M50, very strange as they have one for M52!
M52 has a dedicated trigger mode as it has fully variable Vanos but only a single "tooth" on the cam so it needs some special tricks to get enough resolution of cam position for acceptable cam control. The M50TU only has on/off vanos, no position control so doesnt need a special trigger mode. An M52 would still start and run with either mode though, just vanos control would be poor.
42 minutes ago, Aram said:fuel pump, any thoughts?
Most likely a wiring issue. When you set aux 8 to test mode it would ground pin 1 which is the pump control relay. So trace back from there.
I suggest you attach a log and your tune so we have something info to work from.
Have you checked base timing?
-
8 hours ago, Mikeonabike94 said:
I am having an absolute nightmare with this car.
Hence the note on our web page "This ECU only works with the Engine Code M50TUB25". In the correct application this would plug straight in and start. It is not easy trying to diagnose users wiring and config issues on a application we have no info on.
The ecu is commanding fuel and dwell in the log so that is all that should be needed to run - or at least give some signs of life if fueling or timing are a long way off. The starter fluid test really eliminates fuel concerns so assuming the engine is a known runner, then you really need to look closer at spark. Timing is off, 360 out, spark is disappearing under cylinder pressure due to some wiring issue, or something along those lines.
-
The gear shift is not even set up in your map. It is all zeros? Zero cut, zero time, zero retard. Did you attach the wrong map?
E36 Link ECU G4X won't start
in G4x
Posted