Adamw

The calculated frequency isnt all that relevant, it is better than nothing, but all it tells you is the theoretical prominent knock frequency, it doesnt take into account all the other mechanical noise an engine makes. What is most important is the signal-to-noise ratio - i.e there is no point listening for knock at 6KHz, if your mechanical noise is also very prominent at that same frequency. An example frequency analysis below from an EJ205, the calculated knock frequency for it's 92mm bore would be about 6.2KHz (frequency is the Y axis), you can see there is certainly plenty of knock noise at that calculated frequency, but there is also plenty of similar looking noise at that same frequency on the left hand end when it isn't knocking. The best signal to noise ratio (best distinction between knock and no knock) is about 8-8.5KHz on this engine. Looking at your logs, I would try more testing at 8KHz, balance the cyl gains a little better, then make it briefly knock by putting a large advance value in an ign table cell where loads arent huge and that you pass through fairly quickly (say 3000rpm, 120kpa) to confirm you get a spike when knock occurs.

I dont think those spikes in the first log are tune related, all the metrics that indicate air flow are stable and all the metrics that indicate fuel flow are stable, there are no active fuel trims etc. When air flow and fuel flow is stable then naturally you would expect air/fuel ratio should also be stable. The spikes above about 6500RPM could possibly be explained by your injector duty cycle getting too high, many injectors when you hit about 90%DC will just stay open, so you effectively get 100% flow instead of 90%, but the spike at 5500RPM when your IDC is only ~75% wouldnt fit that scenario. I would be most suspicious of the analog lambda input in this case.

Just click capture when it is cranking, dont hold. Keep cranking for a few seconds after you click capture.

Attached is what I use for the 90919-02240 which looks like a similar design. The main thing I found with those is they dont like more than about 2.1ms for very long, they start to overheat and misfire. To use this file, right-click on your dwell table, >import/export>import from file. 90919-02240 dwell.lte

Attach a copy of your tune and a PC log. Have you set base timing and adjusted the master fuel?

The coil supply (86) should be ignition switched +12V for a normal aux. If you have a spare ignition or injector outputs you could move your relay trigger to them as they are ok to have a live feed.

>ECU Controls>Trigger scope. A new scope screen will open, click the capture button when the engine is cranking (not before), when a waveform is drawn in the scope then click the save button.

Link Air Temp 1/8 NPT = LINK NTC1-8 & IAT1-8 Link Coolant NCT12 = LINK NTC12 & IATB Link Temp/Pressure Combined = Bosch NTC 0261 230 340 (temp) and Bosch 10Bar 0261 230 340 (pressure)

No, G4+ Fury does not have any software functions for 2 throttles.

Firstly, your crank sensor is wired incorrect polarity so that needs to be reversed. For the cam sensor, its location doesnt matter, all the ecu does is checks if it saw a cam pulse in the last revolution or not. If you want to confirm if your offset is correct or not then temporarily change ignition mode to direct spark, unplug injectors 3 & 4, then try starting the engine, if it trys to start or runs on 2 cylinders then offset is correct, if it doesnt fire at all or back fires then your offset is 360out. (this is assuming firing order is 1342).

That will work. You may not even need TPS connected as the fuel will come from the MAP sensor. TPS is only needed for accel enrichment and to activate idle control etc. You could just use the error value to fake any throttle position you want to activate idle ignition etc.

You didnt attach a copy of your map. But from the log it looks like your main issue is the MAP sensor isn't seeing any vacuum - so it either isn't connected to the plenum, the hose is split, or the sensor has failed.

If you set the 4D activation to always on then it will always be applied. It is added to the total commanded advance so will work regardless of what other table or trim is active.

The fuel map will likely end up a different shape in some areas but I suspect it will likely run pretty well with not much changes at all. Change mode to traditional make sure open loop correction is enabled, turn off charge temp correction, start with th e master fuel at about 15-20ms then just adjust it up or down until it runs similar to before.

Not G4+, only G4X Fury. Only the Thunder had 2 x e-throttle control available in G4+ range.

Can you give more detail about the history - Im assuming it has been tuned and was previously running correctly?

The lambda sensor is just the measuring device, it is not going to make it run rich. Please attach a log and a copy of the tune.

Use the 4D or 5D ign table.

I would first at least half the main gain and also try 7 & 8KHz frequency before jumping to the conclusion it is a wiring issue. Your input is saturated and you may just be listening to a particularly noisy frequency.

Sounds more like a sync issue if you are getting a pop or backfire. Please do a triggerscope when cranking.

That scope just shows a stationary engine. You need to click the capture button when you are cranking the engine, not before.

You can contact [email protected] and they can likely help.

This just means you are hitting the set minimum effective PW. The effective PW recorded in the log doesnt include the SPWA or any individual cyl trims so the SPWA will be causing you to hit the set 0.2ms. Note this is not a warning or error, it is just informational, it is there to make the tuner aware that he wont be able to adjust the fuel mixture any leaner in that particular operating area. You can see where it occurs in the log by looking at the "Fuel Calculation" runtime.

Can you attach your map. Is it still using the stock coil and ignitor in the distributor?

Hard to tell without the map, but it looks like you might be hitting the error high value at WOT. Set it to 5.0 to confirm. You can test with an ohm meter as described below to determine the pinout.