Adamw

The CAN connector is a JST XA series.

The relay should be fine. Something like below would cover your logic. I assigned virtual aux 1 to the engine fan function, so you would still set your activation temp and hysteresis etc in the main engine fan settings panel and this will also take care of the speed lockout and engine running lockout. For the DC table, Im not familiar with that relay but you may need to invert these numbers - ie "0%" may be maximum fan speed, not minimum. I would suggest you dont command less than say 15/20%DC in the DC table as most motors will become quite unhappy below that. I would experiment with frequency to see what it likes, start lower, it will likely be ok at 100Hz. Lower frequency will keep the relay cooler.

What @team claymore states is correct. "+14V AUX9/10" or "V Ethrottle" is the power supply (an input) to the E-throttle controller, this comes from the dedicated "e-throttle" relay which is controlled by an aux output. The purpose is so the ecu can shut off power to the throttle in the case of failed hardware, a short in the wiring, or tuning issue etc that causes the motor to not follow commands. The pins labelled Aux 9 & 10 are the outputs that drive the motor.

If it used to idle at a normal RPM then the throttle must have closed more before. Your would have to have idle target up around 1500 and the ORFC deactivation around 2000 to get it stable with the current throttle set-up.

At the beginning of your log the MAP sensor looks a bit wrong, it is sitting at 50kPa then slowly rises to normal atmosphere, like the hose was kinked or something. It looks more realistic later in the log but keep an eye on that to make sure it is ok. Looking at your map and log it appears to have all the basics working, I suspect just not enough fuel, I would expect a master fuel around 8-10ms for 1000cc injectors so try it more at that level. Im assuming you have already confirmed the spark timing is somewhere in the ballpark with a timing light?

Just grounding the sensor to the head or block with a separate wire usually works ok for converting from single-wire knock sensors in my experience.

The idle bouncing is over-run fuel cut turning on and off as your RPM is above the deactivation RPM, as well as your idle ignition control is bouncing on and off because the RPM is above the idle lockout. You need to close the throttle more to bring the RPM down to the target idle speed.

The link .llg log file would be more useful to me than a .csv. I would leave CLL off until it is tuned. You also still have the fuel table setup using MGP which I suggested is not suitable for ITB's earlier so you are wasting your time tuning with it set up like that.

I dont know of any STI that didnt have a MAF from factory? Depends which AEM you have, many dont have an analog ground. The IAT would need temp 4 on one exp and sensor ground on the other exp, which is why I suggested the MAF plug would be the better option.

The sensor is common, but it still needs a controller to control it and generate a useable lambda measurement from it. The controller will need to be something that the evoscan software and the VCI dongle/connection both have support for. I know Openport 2.0 supports some serial wideband controllers, its been a long time since I used it though. Whatever you do, dont get an Innovate device.

Your google file share has restricted access, you need to set the sharing setting to something like "anyone with link".

We added a deadband, a feedforward table and increased derivative range since this post. Since your issue isn't around the natural spring point I would say you will probably get away without adjusting feedforward, but set the deadband to 0.1% and the derivative up around 65-80 usually solves the jerky movement due to high stiction.

More likely to be something like the fuel pressure has changed. I would start by confirming that.

IAT is generally easiest to connect to the MAF plug in the engine bay as it already has AN Temp 2 and sensor ground available there. The wideband signal can be connected to any spare AN Volt input.

Log and tune required. How would the o2 sensor make it spit fuel out of the exhaust? There would have to be no combustion occurring for that to happen?

Yes that will be fine provided the AEM gauge is getting its power supply from elsewhere. Only the two CAN wires are needed. Either connector on the back of the gauge can be used.

Your trigger settings match the pattern received, but I think your issue is there is a small spike of noise being interpreted as an extra tooth on trigger 2 as you can see the trigger state resets when this occurs. Try changing these two below to see if that masks the effect.

Aux 1&2 or 3&4 will require an external E-throttle module, only aux 9&10 can do E-throttle directly, and yes you need both TPS sensors.

Ok, I just found that label in the quick start guide and havent spotted that before. This is a typo I would say, I suspect it was probably meant to say "+14V E-throttle", although even that doesnt match the rest of our documentation well so I will look into getting that fixed up so it is more consistent in future. This pin is the 14V supply for the E-throttle driver, it is labelled "+14V Aux9/10" in the drawing I attached above and the same in most of our other documentation. The pinout from the help file attached below so it matches the drawing above better.

The cam sensor is only used for phase, it has no effect on timing or offset. If the cam tooth is in the wrong place then the worst that would happen is the spark would be on the wrong phase, firing at TDC exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke so the engine wouldnt start.

What ECU do you have and what is the pin actually labelled?

TPS calibration for a cable throttle is done in the >Analog Inputs>Throttle Position Sensor menu or alternatively in >ECU Controls>TPS Setup. E-throttle should be turned off as I said earlier.

Yeah its a battery voltage issue, it actually drops to 5.8V in that log which is a bit extreme, even the ecu is getting close to shutting off at that point, injectors wont work for pre-crank prime etc, so it might pay to try to improve that. At present no, it is possibly something we could investigate adding in a future update if it was possible.

I dont see anything out of place in the log. Is this a new problem? Has it previously been tuned and the AFR normally runs close to target? Moving this to the G4 forum.

You dont need any link product, I think if you disconnect the wire that goes to pin 3 of the thermofan switch and connect this to any spare ecu output and assign that as FAN it should work.