Adamw

You need to use the original TPS wire for TP Main as that signal is also used by the diff controller. But an E-throttle has 2 TPS sensors so you will still need to run a further AN Volt and aux 9 & 10 to the throttle. Yes you can splice the 5V and ground to as many sensors as you like.

This will need to be set up by the tuner and verified with audio knock equipment after the engine is tuned.

So did you change the pinout?

The Storm doesnt have traction control, only the Xtreme and above.

Yes. That sounds like correct behaviour according to this:

The Haltech device uses a different pinout to the Link cable so that is possibly the cause of the short. You cant measure resistance of any live circuit so you cant tell anything from the resistance test.

Im not very familiar with this device, but having a quick poke around I would say you would use the enumeration widget for non-numeric gears. Something like below, with the enumeration check ? field set to: 0#1#2#3#4#5#6#7#8#P#R#N I've had a go at adding Ethanol to your map and TRI below. Eth added.TRI R32GTR1.1 Eth added.pclr

Sorry, a bit of a brain fart in that last example. Try below.

Nothing special needed in terms of processing power for either of those ECU's. The only thing I cant confirm is if the M84 software works in win 11, I remember it had some issues when win 10 first came out that has since be solved. Make sure screen res is at least 1366 x 768, preferably 1920 x 1080 as it allows you to make much more useful layout pages. Solidstate drives are pretty much standard nowadays but make sure the options you are considering do have one. My usual advice is to base the decision more on factors such as battery life, screen size & resolution, screen visibility in sunlight and the types of ports available and their location. Most cars I tune are right hand drive for example, so a laptop that only has USB ports on the RH side would be a major pain in the ass for me. The arrow and PgUp/Dn keys get a lot of use in PC Link so their location and size is always a consideration I make, I especially dislike when those are combined with other keys. A number pad is nice but typically only available on >15.6 sizes, I prefer the size/portabilty balance of 14" now. No idea of your budget etc, but for the last year or so I have been using an Asus UM425QA, and this ticks a lot of boxes for me. Nice and thin/light and the best battery life I have ever had, they quote 15hrs which is probably a stretch but I get about 8-10hrs tuning with the screen brightness near max and the video card settings in performance mode. It is not particularly sturdy so may not be a good choice for everyone.

In E46 BMW's I have had the MK60 ABS working fine with no CAN at all and wheel speeds work fine using either the mini stream or a custom stream. So it sounds like you are missing something else. Does the ABS actually work when you lock a wheel?

Go to >Chassis & Body>AC Clutch control, change the AC Request source to DI5, choose yes when it asks if you want to disconnect GP Input 1. Set the DI5 pull-up and active state to suit your switch wiring.

Your post doesnt make a lot of sense to me, can you give more detail; What plug-in ecu do you have? What Haltech device do you have? How are they connected? What problem do you have and what is "switching to ground"?

Yeah, use MAP (or MGP if you prefer vacuum = negative values) on the Ign table. Up to atmospheric pressure the advance values will be very similar to a NA ign table, above atmosphere you can use a rough rule of thumb like -1.5deg/psi which will usually result in something fairly conservative assuming compression and fuel are suitable for boost.

The only difference between those two sensors is the length of the cable.

Not quite sure of the question here. I assume the message about an update means you were trying to connect an old version of PC Link to an ecu with newer firmware? PC Link wont have any influence on how the gauge works. You will have to give more info about the layout issue, possibly it has been overwritten when you done the update if it was still using the default name. If the gauge isn't reading reading ethanol my first thought would be you probably dont have the extra stream enabled, instructions from the help file below:

You still have all the idle control settings based on a solenoid type valve. It is commanding more than 30% idle position but you have the max clamp at 30% so that's where your 30% is coming from. None of your idle settings are appropriate for DBW, I would suggest copying the basic set-up out of the WRX11 base map as a better starting point. In your E-throttle settings the min and max clamp are at +/-30%. -90 & +90% would be more appropriate starting points.

Your existing 30/35deg pattern wont work for anything but distributor Ignition. If you had capability to make something then 12-1 would be my suggestion. It could be turned out of solid or pressed/folded. You could make the "teeth" much smaller to avoid the need for them to be curved OD if it made folding easier. 4mm or so wide would be fine.

Will need a log.

I dont have much experience with fuel cut apart from some brief testing in a not-really-suitable road car when we first added it. I think the general idea is generally just to add enough fuel cut to keep EGT under control, and I suspect likely will need a lot more throttle/air also.

The old V series does not have a built-in trigger scope so you are probably going to have to connect a standalone scope to see what it is not happy about. Can you give us a picture of the cam sensor chopper disc. Moved post to the V series forum.

No, there is no CAN receive in the old G4. CAN based lambda controllers didnt come along until after that ecu was out of production.

I just had a quick look at your log, you have way more fuel being dumped in than I would expect, assuming the fuel is petrol. You have 11ms pulse width in the first cranking attempt, then 16ms in the 2nd. Comparing to a log of a cold start from our FD, that only briefly reaches a max of 8ms during cold cranking and that only has 850cc primaries from memory. So you have at least twice as much fuel going in as our car. Normal idle PW is about 1ms for reference. You have accel fuel adding extra fuel while cranking due to incorrect set up, so turn that off for now or copy the settings from our S6 base map. Fix the exaggerated fuel table numbers that you have around 100Kpa, <1000RPM where it will be working during cranking and drop the master fuel to about 7ms. See if there are any signs of life with less fuel. Rotaries can be pretty fussy to start when the tune is a long way off, a squirt of ether often helps.

My suggestion to change the trig 2 sync to cam level was based on your earlier comment that the cam wheel was a "half moon". But in your scope it appears that is not the case, it is a much shorter pulse. If you leave trig 2 sync mode set to cam level but change the trig 1 sync tooth to 35 it should then sync successfully. Your trigger offset may still need to be changed by 360 if no signs of life after changing that. So basic trigger setup will look like below.

So many posts here so I might be asking the same questions that has already been answered. Have you tried changing the trigger offset by 360? Can you do 2 new trigger scopes, one with the vvt solenoids unplugged and another with the solenoids plugged in but with the auxes active state set to high in the vvt settings.