Adamw

If you unplug the sensor, then short the 5V pin to the signal pin with a paperclip or similar, do you then have 5.0V showing in PC Link?

There is no point using high side drive mode as this ecu doesnt even have high-side drive hardware fitted. Change it back to low side drive. With the solenoid unplugged/disconnected, if you then set aux 8 test to PWM, does the aux status still show a fault? Or only with the valve connected?

After you power cycle the ecu does PC Link then connect and behave as normal, or is it stuck in boot mode? What version firmware is the ecu currently running?

Your TPS was reading 4% when you saved that map, assuming it used to read 0% when closed, could this suggest it is now more open? Or has the sensor since been moved or something? The difference when you open the set base timing screen is the timing is locked to whatever reference you have set (currently 0 in your map) rather than using the normal advance from the ignition table. So you could achieve the same by putting less advance in the main ignition table, but before suggesting that it would be good to understand what has changed. Have you had the engine apart or something? What's happened between 2021 and now? If its ITB's you really want to change both the fuel and ignition tables to use TPS for the load axis anyway so I can create a better starting map once I know more of the story. Does it have a vacuum manifold or anything similar for a brake booster or idle valve connection? Any chance of a vacuum leak here? Have you checked for leaks by spraying water around the manifold and injectors etc when its running? Are the ITB's all individually linked or are they in pairs like IDF style?

If the gauge current requirement is very small, there may be just enough current through the pull-up resistor on the boost aux to keep it alive (1.5K to 12V), but if the main MPI relay is off then the pull-up supply should also be off. Since all aux pull-ups are connected to the same rail, Im suspicious perhaps one of the other auxes is back-feeding. The most likely would be the AC relay on aux 4 or the EGR on Aux 2, can you try it with those unplugged?

Based on the calibration number you have in that map I would say you are well beyond the frequency capability of the G4+ digital inputs. They were quoted as 500Hz max but they would often work up to around 1500 depending how many other interrupts were working. 4-10pulses per rev would be more typical.

Ok, your crank signal now looks good and your voltage on trig 2 is more like what I expect - but the cam sensor is still not showing any "tooth". Is your "chopper disc" steel/magnetic? According to the note on the drawing above you should have a low voltage when there is no metal in front of the sensor and a high voltage when there is metal in front of the sensor (this actually opposite of how most similar sensors work so it might be wrong). But to help diagnose, you can use the trigger scope just like a voltmeter without the engine turning. If you pull your cam sensor off (but leave it plugged in) then do a scope capture you should see either ~3.5V or ~0V on trig 2 in the scope. Then if you place a piece of metal in between the magnet and sensor then do another scope capture you should see the opposite high/low voltage.

Did you attach the correct log? I dont see any throttle oscillation or the "massive RPM spike" in that one?

No, there are no high side drives are fitted in that ecu. Can you do a sketch of how things are wired.

It is not flat if you zoom in more. Your TPS delta lockout is currently set to 1.5%/20ms, which is way too low, some cars will have this much TPS noise just at steady state idle. A typical transient event would be more like 20 or 30%/20ms. Usually for knock control I just leave the TPS delta lockout set to zero unless I have a car that gives a big false knock event when you lift off at high speed.

Yeah this ecu has plenty of IO so will do that fine, you will just need to shuffle a few wires around to free up appropriate IO for the AVCS. The "quad AVCS" engine doesnt have the front cam sensor for trigger 2 so I would move the bank 2 intake sensor wire from pin E9 to pin B1 trigger 2. That will free up DI2 which can then be used for one of the exhaust cams, for the other exhaust cam I would use DI4 which is normally not connected in USDM cars (IC spray switch on JDM cars). For the AVCS solenoids you need to use Aux 1-8 as these are flywheeled, the intake solenoids are already wired to aux 1&2, for the exhaust solenoids you could use aux 8 (narrow band o2 heater) for one and for the other the easiest option would probably be to move the CE light to one of the ign auxes on the expansion to free up aux 5.

The USB chip in early G4 Atoms from memory were sensitive to static discharge but I dont think that applied to G4's in general. It can certainly be inspected and repaired but there will likely be a cost involved. The G4 had a 1 year warranty so it is well beyond that now. Email [email protected] for a service request form if you wish to have it inspected.

You will need a seriallink or hand controller to tune that ecu, neither items are available from link, so the only option is to find a used one.

What is the triggerscope for, you only mentioned a throttle issue above? How to share a file:

The oil pressure is broadcast from the ECU with a resolution of 1kPa, if you are seeing less resolution at the haltech end then you will need to get advice from Haltech.

Although I still think it is quite unlikely there is anything wrong with AN Temp 1, I guess it is not impossible that it has failed sometime after our testing. If you are 100% sure the pull-up resistor is turned on in the software and there is no 5V on pin 18 then I think the ecu should be returned for inspection. You can return to Link Japan or contact [email protected] for return instructions.

I have no experience with that specific valve, but never noticed any polarity requirement when using other similar looking 5.0 ford valves. Can you back probe the aux pin and measure the voltage on it when in "test ON" mode.

What voltage is showing on the AN Temp input in PC Linck?

What ECU do you have?

Attach a copy of your tune.

TPS (main) runtime is filtered and clamped, you should be looking at the "TPS Delta" runtime.

Hard to tell anything without a log, but it sounds like the motor is wired backwards. Swap the +/- wires on the motor and try again. If no joy with that then do a log of the TPS cal process.

Please attach a copy of the map from your ECU and a PC log of a start attempt. You have attached an ecu log with almost no data recorded. Please follow the video if you dont know how to save the map or record the log: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

Roughly 270deg or 75% duty. Typically the idea with porting a wankel is similar to fitting a performance camshaft in a piston engine, you open the ports earlier and close them later to give it more "duration" - the ports are open for longer. Some of this extra duration adds more overlap so the SOI needs to be moved later to avoid this, however the intake port will also close later so your available injection window will usually work out roughly the same (very roughly).