Adamw

You can change the Link CAN gauge to 500Kbit, I dont have one handy but from memory in the same list you select Link ecu, there should be a Link ecu 500K option. If not you may have to update its firmware.

email [email protected] and they should be able to help. They will need a bit of info about where it came from etc and may take a day or 2 to get it ok'd.

Trigger mode should be set to multitooth/missing for a missing tooth wheel, you currently have it set to multitooth. And there is something wrong with you MAP sensor or wiring, it shows a very odd trend, it looks correct initially around 100kpa, then drops down to about 70 and spikes up to 150kpa a couple of times? The fuel pressure has odd spikes about the same time. Do you remember if you moved the TPS at all? TPS shows zero the whole time but im wondering if there is some crossed wires somewhere and TPS is affecting MAP and fuel press maybe?

Did you try the starter fluid that I suggested earlier yet? When you do an ignition test do you have a spark coming out of both coil leads? If you manually turn it to TDC#1, is your rotor pointing to the number 1 post? And is the lead on that post going to cyl 1? Then do the same check for all of the other TDC's in firing order.

In that case this engine would work with the generic multitooth/missing mode using the cam level sync mode. Will need to see a triggerscope once wired to decide on the sync tooth setting but otherwise it is supported. Looks similar to the K24Z3 I think.

You could use the knock tps/MAP/RPM deltas as they have user configurable time based filters. You might need to turn normalised knock mode on the see them. The rich drift when you initially lift off is some of the fuel puddle evaporating, oem's have very complex strategies to reduce this effect since to meet emissions targets they need to be as close to lambda 1 as much as possible, but in the aftermarket world it really isn't going to be achievable with the typical hardware, budget and intelligence involved. Decel enleanment or "injecting less fuel" is only a very small part of the wall wetting strategy, the problem is the fuel is already in the port clinging to the walls, so pulling fuel out only helps a small amount a few cycles later after the bulk of the puddle has evaporated. OEM's will have the fuel injector spray pattern and injection timing well optimised to minimise the puddle size in the first place, they will have many other tricks to keep the MAP and puddle as stable as possible such as slow the throttle movement down, move the camshafts and use EGR etc.

I do have firmware for this version. Do you have a PCAN or Kvaser tool?

Does it have a crank wheel as well? We have some notes for a R18A will work with the K20 trigger mode but I think this one maybe different.

Yes, Meatpi or OBDlink MX+ is what you want. The ecumaster device is only designed for their fixed CAN stream and their own app.

This scope looks quite normal, so it would be good to try to get a couple more that capture just the first couple of revolutions as you start to crank. This is a little trickier to do but try clicking the capture button about the same time or just a fraction of a second before you turn the key to start position.

Try connecting a relay or light bulb etc to the aux and confirm voltage again, I think some Atoms didnt have pull-ups on the auxes.

If you have a G4X then it is already in the software, if you have a G4+ then I doubt even basic CAN integration would be reliably possible.

It will tell you the fault code description in red at the top of your screen. Code 76 is TPS sub/main tracking, so that suggests you havent calibrated the throttle position sensors.

No, the throttle moves because the RPM drops to 0 when there is a trigger error, your throttle target for <800RPM and 100% APS is 24%, so the throttle tries to quickly close to 24% when the trigger error occurs. The throttle motor will draw about 6A from the relatively small ecu power supply wire so you will see a small voltage drop.

Looking at your map again I noticed the CAN errors being reported were transmit errors, not receive errors as you would expect. I loaded your map into a live ecu on the bench and got the same transmit errors. The only logic that I could fit to that would be "Lambda 1" has seperate receive and transmit runtimes so perhaps you manually selected the lambda 1 transmit runtime rather than just loading the AEM .lcs template which has the correct receive runtime? Anyway, by deleting that frame and loading the AEM template again your map is not reporting CAN errors for me now. So try loading the attached updated map in. Startup tune 240513 CAN reset up.pclx

The blip in the motorsport gear shift function uses a fixed throttle opening and then cuts are used to achieve the target shaft speed matching if enabled. So not really appropriate for a road car type shift. The 2nd e-throttle target should be able to achieve what you need with the appropriate axes and possibly a timer etc.

Yeah I dont see any obvious cause in that log. As you say the eff PW at idle at the end of the log is giving about ~15-20% less fuel, which seems to fit with about what I'd expect for the small difference in MAP and charge temp - yet the measured lambda is 15-20% richer. There arent too many "mechanical issues" that would cause it to run richer though - leaking injector maybe? What injectors are they?

Do the aux 3 & 3 statuses show as inactive in the software when you are measuring them at 0V? Is there any device/load connected when you are measuring? Is it a G4, G4+ or G4X atom?

The triggers like fine. The "oddness" of the waveform is only because the crank rpm increases suddenly by 2 or 300% when the one cyl fires, then it drops back to slow for the other 7. As far as the ecu is concerned it looks quite acceptable.

Yes that one is photographed upside down compared to how I normally see them for whatever reason, but that is the coil im talking about. But I would go for a name brand like Bosch, NGK, Beru, Vemu or similar, that one is not a brand I recognise and I have seen some pretty poor quality junk from many of those generic black label brands. Also, be careful that the one you go for does actually show the Aluminium heatsink part included (this is the ignitor), I have seen some companies selling the same coil with same part number but it is missing the ignitor. I dont know any of these companies, but just for reference, here are a couple of Bosch ones for about the same money: https://www.autodoc.co.uk/bosch/757956 https://www.sparepartstore24.co.uk/757956-bosch

Whilst I cant be 100% sure as we used to buy the probes with the fitting as part of the kit, Im 99% sure this is just a standard swagelok compression fitting that is quite common in the industrial world so you should be able to find locally. I reckon the complete fitting would be part number SS-400-1-2. If you are just after the nut and ferrule then have a look for SS-400-NFSET

Yes it is a dumb coil. Im pretty sure most of the DTA's - at least the older ones I have used - had an internal coil driver(s) that could be turned on via software, so it can drive a dumb coil directly. My ign coil catalog shows a primary resistance of 0.7ohm, whereas it would state "NA" or "--" for a smart coil as primary resistance cant be measured. The common VW golf one might be a good option to swap in rather than add an ignitor and change wiring. They are a 4 post wasted spark coil with internal ignitor, good powerful spark and cheap as chips. I think they have the same 4mm terminal so leads will probably fit too. A common part number is 032905106b

The G4+ pinout used to only cover pins that were used and configurable, the G4X pinout is more complete and has all connections shown. So you can look in the G4X help file in PC link or the PDF manual that is on the ecu's webpage. But as a quick reply, you will find most of the pins in this list are "NC" which means not connected. Our ecu doesnt support the autotrans and consult port so they are not needed, 115 is the ground for the O2 heater, 16 is the main ECCS relay control.

Go to your CAN setup, change the Link CAN Lambda channel to "Receive User Stream **", and change ID to 688. So it will look something like below. Then go to the Streams tab, click on the stream number that you have chosen above, then click load stream, load the .lcs file attached to this post. It should look something like below with the stream file loaded. Apply those changes, do a store and cycle ign off/on then have a look if lambda 1 & 2 are reporting anything. If not have a look at CAN AN10 to see if the diagnostic code gives any clues. I have a vague feeling they may need an RPM signal from the ecu to start up, but dont have any info on that. Haltech WB2A Use ID 688.lcs