Adamw

I would connect both ground wires to the engine block since these cheap devices are usually poorly designed, connecting the analog ground to sensor ground will likely just be coupling sensor ground to engine ground and make all other sensors less accurate. Analog voltage sensors should use ECU sensor ground.

Yes, normal. In PWM test mode the output will be pulsing between 0V & 12V at 50% duty cycle, the multimeter isn't fast enough to show this so it will display roughly the average of the two voltages.

Yes, this does sound like there is possibly an issue with the power supply circuit. I suggest removing the ecu from the car and powering the ecu up on the bench with some test leads and a battery. If you dont have any of this equipment then you may have to return it to Link Japan to get them to do it. The easiest connection to power up the ecu is to use the large TVS diode behind the main header, connect +12V to the striped end and ground to the plain end. Then try the firmware update again like this.

If this is with just with one multimeter probe connected to one solenoid wire and the other probe connected to the other solenoid wire, then that solenoid has a dead short inside, it is faulty/rubbish.

Yes the connection like that should be fine. Make sure you initially only connect lambda 2 to the ecu and reprogram it as lambda 2 before plugging in lambda 1.

I think there is an issue with the throttle/throttle position. All of the time points you mention show evidence of the same issue, but the last patch at 20:07 to 20:12 is especially convincing. The log shows the TPS is wide open at 3000RPM, yet the manifold pressure is sitting at only 33-48kPa, there is no way an engine like this would be pulling overrun levels of manifold vacuum if the throttle really was wide open/unrestricted. The MAP appears to be correct as the differential fuel pressure is reasonably flat at the same time, if it was the MAP sensor that was reading low the diff FP would be much higher than normal in that area. Since TPS sub and the throttle error accumulators arent logged its hard to confidently say that it is actually the throttle causing this restriction as there are a few puzzling observations: 1) If it were just the TP main sensor failing then I would have expected the throttle control system to trip into safety mode, it only allows about 2% error for a max of 2 sec. 2)The throttle motor DC is sitting at about 30% in the restricted areas which looks similar to other areas of WOT when it was working correctly, so that kind of suggests TPS was actually in a similar/normal position. I dont know how the TPS is connected to the throttle shaft/butterfly internally, but it is almost like the motor is moving the TPS, but not the throttle butterfly? Broken shaft maybe? Or perhaps the throttle actually is opening fine but the "throttling" is coming from something else - like a rubber coupling or air filter collapsing, something floating around inside an intercooler pipe etc. I would have thought to pull the MAP down to 33kPa however it would need to be a pretty well sealed "restriction". Anyhow hopefully that gives you some clues what to concentrate on.

20Hz would be normal. If it only faults with the valve connected then it suggests an issue with the circuit, either too much current or the voltage is low. If you have a multimeter handy, can you measure the resistance of the solenoid.

It sounds like the sensor is dead in that case.

How did you confirm the relay is turning off? From what you have described so far I dont think it is. When the gauge remains on with the ignition off, what happens if you unplug that relay, does everything then shut down? I suspect that relay is being held closed due to a backfeed through the boost solenoid and out of pin 102. That relay coil should be connected to pin 110 so there is no chance of a loop if the MPI relay opens quicker than the new relay.

If you unplug the sensor, then short the 5V pin to the signal pin with a paperclip or similar, do you then have 5.0V showing in PC Link?

There is no point using high side drive mode as this ecu doesnt even have high-side drive hardware fitted. Change it back to low side drive. With the solenoid unplugged/disconnected, if you then set aux 8 test to PWM, does the aux status still show a fault? Or only with the valve connected?

After you power cycle the ecu does PC Link then connect and behave as normal, or is it stuck in boot mode? What version firmware is the ecu currently running?

Your TPS was reading 4% when you saved that map, assuming it used to read 0% when closed, could this suggest it is now more open? Or has the sensor since been moved or something? The difference when you open the set base timing screen is the timing is locked to whatever reference you have set (currently 0 in your map) rather than using the normal advance from the ignition table. So you could achieve the same by putting less advance in the main ignition table, but before suggesting that it would be good to understand what has changed. Have you had the engine apart or something? What's happened between 2021 and now? If its ITB's you really want to change both the fuel and ignition tables to use TPS for the load axis anyway so I can create a better starting map once I know more of the story. Does it have a vacuum manifold or anything similar for a brake booster or idle valve connection? Any chance of a vacuum leak here? Have you checked for leaks by spraying water around the manifold and injectors etc when its running? Are the ITB's all individually linked or are they in pairs like IDF style?

If the gauge current requirement is very small, there may be just enough current through the pull-up resistor on the boost aux to keep it alive (1.5K to 12V), but if the main MPI relay is off then the pull-up supply should also be off. Since all aux pull-ups are connected to the same rail, Im suspicious perhaps one of the other auxes is back-feeding. The most likely would be the AC relay on aux 4 or the EGR on Aux 2, can you try it with those unplugged?

Based on the calibration number you have in that map I would say you are well beyond the frequency capability of the G4+ digital inputs. They were quoted as 500Hz max but they would often work up to around 1500 depending how many other interrupts were working. 4-10pulses per rev would be more typical.

Ok, your crank signal now looks good and your voltage on trig 2 is more like what I expect - but the cam sensor is still not showing any "tooth". Is your "chopper disc" steel/magnetic? According to the note on the drawing above you should have a low voltage when there is no metal in front of the sensor and a high voltage when there is metal in front of the sensor (this actually opposite of how most similar sensors work so it might be wrong). But to help diagnose, you can use the trigger scope just like a voltmeter without the engine turning. If you pull your cam sensor off (but leave it plugged in) then do a scope capture you should see either ~3.5V or ~0V on trig 2 in the scope. Then if you place a piece of metal in between the magnet and sensor then do another scope capture you should see the opposite high/low voltage.

Did you attach the correct log? I dont see any throttle oscillation or the "massive RPM spike" in that one?

No, there are no high side drives are fitted in that ecu. Can you do a sketch of how things are wired.

It is not flat if you zoom in more. Your TPS delta lockout is currently set to 1.5%/20ms, which is way too low, some cars will have this much TPS noise just at steady state idle. A typical transient event would be more like 20 or 30%/20ms. Usually for knock control I just leave the TPS delta lockout set to zero unless I have a car that gives a big false knock event when you lift off at high speed.

Yeah this ecu has plenty of IO so will do that fine, you will just need to shuffle a few wires around to free up appropriate IO for the AVCS. The "quad AVCS" engine doesnt have the front cam sensor for trigger 2 so I would move the bank 2 intake sensor wire from pin E9 to pin B1 trigger 2. That will free up DI2 which can then be used for one of the exhaust cams, for the other exhaust cam I would use DI4 which is normally not connected in USDM cars (IC spray switch on JDM cars). For the AVCS solenoids you need to use Aux 1-8 as these are flywheeled, the intake solenoids are already wired to aux 1&2, for the exhaust solenoids you could use aux 8 (narrow band o2 heater) for one and for the other the easiest option would probably be to move the CE light to one of the ign auxes on the expansion to free up aux 5.

The USB chip in early G4 Atoms from memory were sensitive to static discharge but I dont think that applied to G4's in general. It can certainly be inspected and repaired but there will likely be a cost involved. The G4 had a 1 year warranty so it is well beyond that now. Email [email protected] for a service request form if you wish to have it inspected.

You will need a seriallink or hand controller to tune that ecu, neither items are available from link, so the only option is to find a used one.

What is the triggerscope for, you only mentioned a throttle issue above? How to share a file:

The oil pressure is broadcast from the ECU with a resolution of 1kPa, if you are seeing less resolution at the haltech end then you will need to get advice from Haltech.