iceman

Hi, I have a Link Storm G4+ wire in, provisionally running a 6.0L LS V8 with 4L65E auto transmission. The trans is being run with an older HGM Compushift 2 standalone TCU with wire in harness. The TCU obviously requires an accurate RPM input which I was providing with a "Tach" signal aux tap before I realised my mistake in that that signal was also being recalibrated to get the actual cluster tach gauge to read correctly. In this particular case the RPM signal displayed on the TCU screen was low. I'm missing something here because I can't think of any other way to obtain a "clean" external RPM signal for the TCU. Can you suggest a work around? Cheers, Pete.

1990 Nissan 300ZX LS conversion. G4+ wire in. I have a fuel pump being triggered (low side) through an aux output using the OEM wiring/relay. The relay is supplied with a continuous high side power supply, which I believe is normal for Nissans of this era. The problem is that the fuel pump runs continuously, battery and harness A connected but with the ECU otherwise totally electrically disconnected. There is continuity on the trigger wire between the ECU and relay. This obviously sounds like a back feeding issue but in this case instead of power remaining up through the ECU issue, it appears to be an earth channel staying active on the aux concerned. Before I put in an extra relay on the OEM relay high side, do the aux channels normally go to a closed (on) position when the ECU is powered down to explain this issue? Cheers.

Hi Adam, Yes stored the new trigger mode but later realised I hadn't checked/reset the timing offset with that change. Had to add 35 degrees to get back to the TDC mark I am using, got good triggers again and it burst into life. Now to fabricate an exhaust system to keep the neighbours happy before going any further... As always, excellent customer support thank you. Pete.

6.0L, 440cc

Further.... Just noticed you asked for another log rather than scope so new log attached. Interesting that this time the trigger 2 has gone back to cyclic YES then NO while cranking...Just about started again on first crank but then nothing after further cranking. Log 2021-11-7 6;07;13 pm.llg

Adam, Definitely sounds closer to a start with the 90 deg offset setting and trigger 2 is now a solid YES while cranking. A couple more scopes attached. Master fuel around the mid 30's seems to get the most promising noises...Any other settings I can play with to get a decent start? Cheers again, Pete. Trigger Scope Log 2021-11-7 1;17;59 pm.llg Trigger Scope Log 2021-11-7 5;52;02 pm.llg

Hi Adam, Two more scopes attached thanks. These are about 15 seconds long each on the starter. Cheers, Pete. Trigger Scope Log 2021-11-7 1;17;59 pm.llg Trigger Scope Log 2021-11-7 1;14;31 pm.llg

Hi, Trying to get a decent first start from my 6.0L GM V8 running a G4 Storm Black in traditional mode. So far only had a few seconds of erratic running with a hard start initially, now only pops and bangs... Initially a 2006 L76 but now with AFM hardware removed and a better cam and related fitted so now basically a warm L98. Running the gen4 58X trigger system. Modified OEM engine loom, OEM injectors, coils, MAP sensor but cable throttle, NZEFI IACV and IAT. Cam and 3 bolt sprocket are part of a set supposedly for an L76 AFM delete so assume the sprocket has the correct trigger pattern for the original L76 configuration, if that makes a difference. Trigger offset confirmed at 0 degrees (TDC mark). Going by the initial erratic start and having tried adding 360 degrees and the alternative Chev LS2/LS6 90 degree trig option without noticeable improvement, I think I'm OK in my current trigger settings. However, the trigger 1 signal is constantly YES in the runtime values when cranking but trigger 2 is YES then NO (steadily) as the engine is cranked over, so something maybe up there? Files attached for viewing and advice please. Cheers, Pete. First start issue.llg Trigger Scope Log 2021-11-6 3;31;51 pm.llg LS conversion.pclr

Yes. Even tried accessing it with someone elses PC but same result. The file was being blocked by Google Chrome as being malicious/unavailable. I've since changed the Chrome security settings temporarily to finally get it to open and save it. Thanks.

Hi Adam, Your start up file for this poster has died/is now unavailable/blocked for some reason. Can you please post it again. I basically have a warm L98 spec, gen 4 GM V8 with OEM injectors, 58X triggers etc using a G4+ Storm black. Cheers, Pete.

Sorry, just dug out my wiring notes specifically for my Z32, so to be clear: I have the yellow and green wire to Aux 5. This wire goes to the speedo. I have DI 6 tapped to a VSS (auto trans) speed source for LR wheel speed. The modifying circuit goes on the Aux wire between ecu and speedo. The LINK ecu obviously modifies the signal between the DI in and Aux out to correct the speedo. When I say the yellow and green wire, it is specific to the Z32 (and probably other Nissan product of that era) on the large white chassis wiring connector behind the AC condensor, under the glovebox. No doubt if you felt particularly masochistic, you could also solder in a dedicated Aux out wire on the large circuit track on the back of the speedo gauge itself...

The yellow/green wire goes between the ecu and the speedo. I connected this wire with the signal modifying circuit above, to the DI. I then calibrated what the speedo was reading using the multiplier...

I don't recall what my Z32 speedo was reading while connected to the speedo aux but it was erroneous. Grooming the aux signal with the additional circuit and applying the multiplier worked for me. I had been using a Dakota Digital converter box like the OP to do the same thing with the same car but with another standalone (piggyback) ecu. A trip to Jaycar for the required components tidied that all up...

Nothing showing....OEM injectors? Flick me an email and I maybe able to help. Pete.

Google once again is your friend...