iceman

Hi, I have a Link Storm G4+ wire in, provisionally running a 6.0L LS V8 with 4L65E auto transmission. The trans is being run with an older HGM Compushift 2 standalone TCU with wire in harness. The TCU obviously requires an accurate RPM input which I was providing with a "Tach" signal aux tap before I realised my mistake in that that signal was also being recalibrated to get the actual cluster tach gauge to read correctly. In this particular case the RPM signal displayed on the TCU screen was low. I'm missing something here because I can't think of any other way to obtain a "clean" external RPM signal for the TCU. Can you suggest a work around? Cheers, Pete.

1990 Nissan 300ZX LS conversion. G4+ wire in. I have a fuel pump being triggered (low side) through an aux output using the OEM wiring/relay. The relay is supplied with a continuous high side power supply, which I believe is normal for Nissans of this era. The problem is that the fuel pump runs continuously, battery and harness A connected but with the ECU otherwise totally electrically disconnected. There is continuity on the trigger wire between the ECU and relay. This obviously sounds like a back feeding issue but in this case instead of power remaining up through the ECU issue, it appears to be an earth channel staying active on the aux concerned. Before I put in an extra relay on the OEM relay high side, do the aux channels normally go to a closed (on) position when the ECU is powered down to explain this issue? Cheers.

Hi Adam, Yes stored the new trigger mode but later realised I hadn't checked/reset the timing offset with that change. Had to add 35 degrees to get back to the TDC mark I am using, got good triggers again and it burst into life. Now to fabricate an exhaust system to keep the neighbours happy before going any further... As always, excellent customer support thank you. Pete.

6.0L, 440cc

Further.... Just noticed you asked for another log rather than scope so new log attached. Interesting that this time the trigger 2 has gone back to cyclic YES then NO while cranking...Just about started again on first crank but then nothing after further cranking. Log 2021-11-7 6;07;13 pm.llg

Adam, Definitely sounds closer to a start with the 90 deg offset setting and trigger 2 is now a solid YES while cranking. A couple more scopes attached. Master fuel around the mid 30's seems to get the most promising noises...Any other settings I can play with to get a decent start? Cheers again, Pete. Trigger Scope Log 2021-11-7 1;17;59 pm.llg Trigger Scope Log 2021-11-7 5;52;02 pm.llg

Hi Adam, Two more scopes attached thanks. These are about 15 seconds long each on the starter. Cheers, Pete. Trigger Scope Log 2021-11-7 1;17;59 pm.llg Trigger Scope Log 2021-11-7 1;14;31 pm.llg

Hi, Trying to get a decent first start from my 6.0L GM V8 running a G4 Storm Black in traditional mode. So far only had a few seconds of erratic running with a hard start initially, now only pops and bangs... Initially a 2006 L76 but now with AFM hardware removed and a better cam and related fitted so now basically a warm L98. Running the gen4 58X trigger system. Modified OEM engine loom, OEM injectors, coils, MAP sensor but cable throttle, NZEFI IACV and IAT. Cam and 3 bolt sprocket are part of a set supposedly for an L76 AFM delete so assume the sprocket has the correct trigger pattern for the original L76 configuration, if that makes a difference. Trigger offset confirmed at 0 degrees (TDC mark). Going by the initial erratic start and having tried adding 360 degrees and the alternative Chev LS2/LS6 90 degree trig option without noticeable improvement, I think I'm OK in my current trigger settings. However, the trigger 1 signal is constantly YES in the runtime values when cranking but trigger 2 is YES then NO (steadily) as the engine is cranked over, so something maybe up there? Files attached for viewing and advice please. Cheers, Pete. First start issue.llg Trigger Scope Log 2021-11-6 3;31;51 pm.llg LS conversion.pclr

Yes. Even tried accessing it with someone elses PC but same result. The file was being blocked by Google Chrome as being malicious/unavailable. I've since changed the Chrome security settings temporarily to finally get it to open and save it. Thanks.

Hi Adam, Your start up file for this poster has died/is now unavailable/blocked for some reason. Can you please post it again. I basically have a warm L98 spec, gen 4 GM V8 with OEM injectors, 58X triggers etc using a G4+ Storm black. Cheers, Pete.

Sorry, just dug out my wiring notes specifically for my Z32, so to be clear: I have the yellow and green wire to Aux 5. This wire goes to the speedo. I have DI 6 tapped to a VSS (auto trans) speed source for LR wheel speed. The modifying circuit goes on the Aux wire between ecu and speedo. The LINK ecu obviously modifies the signal between the DI in and Aux out to correct the speedo. When I say the yellow and green wire, it is specific to the Z32 (and probably other Nissan product of that era) on the large white chassis wiring connector behind the AC condensor, under the glovebox. No doubt if you felt particularly masochistic, you could also solder in a dedicated Aux out wire on the large circuit track on the back of the speedo gauge itself...

The yellow/green wire goes between the ecu and the speedo. I connected this wire with the signal modifying circuit above, to the DI. I then calibrated what the speedo was reading using the multiplier...

I don't recall what my Z32 speedo was reading while connected to the speedo aux but it was erroneous. Grooming the aux signal with the additional circuit and applying the multiplier worked for me. I had been using a Dakota Digital converter box like the OP to do the same thing with the same car but with another standalone (piggyback) ecu. A trip to Jaycar for the required components tidied that all up...

Nothing showing....OEM injectors? Flick me an email and I maybe able to help. Pete.

Google once again is your friend...

Barge, I understand that it is the negative (3) from the pump that is PW modulated but regarding the positive pump pin (6), is that just a tap into your battery feed direct to the fuel pump or do you feed power from the battery through the controller supply (4) then out the pump positive pin (6) to the pump? Cheers.

Excellent. Thanks Adam.

Hi Adam, After looking at this again, I believe it does as per the highlighted help file info below. Presumably you would need "hold power" configured to keep the ECU alive after key off to get the fan to run for a short configured time period after shutdown. I don't have hold power set up so I think I could achieve the fan cut during cranking by just entering 0 secs in the time out value as power will be on to the ECU during start. The only possible issue would be does the ECU see RPM while only cranking with ignition/ECU on as it is only a zero RPM time lockout and not an actual RPM level lockout? I'm not in a position to immediately try this myself. Cheers. Engine Fan Settings: · Non Driven Speed Lockout - The Non Driven wheel speed above which engine fan and condenser fan operation will disable. This setting has a hysteresis of 5 kph. If set to 0.0 kph the lockout will be ignored. If set too low the engine could overheat. · RPM Zero Timeout - The amount of time the Engine Fan will run for once the engine speed is zero. It is useful to set this timer so the system will continue cooling, but not flatten the vehicles battery. This timer is only active while the ECU has power, if the ignition key kills the engine and turns off power to the ECU then the timer will not run. · Engine Fan X Temperature - The temperature ECT must reach for Engine Fan X to turn ON. · Engine Fan X Hysteresis - The number of degrees ECT must decrease below the Engine Fan X Temperature before the Engine Fan X will turn OFF. It is required to eliminate short fan cycles. · Engine Fan X on with AC - If set to Yes Engine Fan X will turn ON one second after AC Clutch activates. The one second delay is to spread the increased engine load from the AC Clutch and condenser fan turning ON.

OK to result this, I think I have finally worked out that the "fuel pump" aux out is just replaced with "fuel pump control" on the same aux channel if you want to run a PWM speed controller. I see the latter has a prime time setting as well so "fuel pump" and "fuel pump control" are basically combined on the single aux channel used instead of separate channels like the OEM wiring diagram I have been confused over. Adzn3K , the pin out on the "Continental" PWM fuel pump controller a few posts up has it's socket pins clearly numbered 1-6, cast into the plastic socket on the inside surface. That corresponds to the wiring diagram above, eg: pins 1 - 6 correspond to pins C4ES15/1- C4ES15/6. Note: you don't need the monitor pin C4ES15/2, only the other 5 pins.

Three posts up....

Hi, Trying to work out how to temporarily disable the engine fan on engine start to lower overall battery current draw when cranking. I have start position wired through a DI channel and fan control through an Aux as usual. I'm hoping it can be accomplished using a virtual GP channel from there but cannot quite get the conditions/switch logic right.....Am I on the right track? Some advice would be appreciated. Cheers.

This is obviously a related thread to that from Adzn3K as to options for speed controlling fuel pump(s). Pros and cons re the added fuel system complication aside, I am looking at wiring and configuring a "Continental" brand (same as the NZEFI and Barge's one above) fuel pump controller. The way I understand it, an Aux channel is required for turning on the fuel pump relay and presumably another aux channel will be required to control the PWM signal to the controller. However, the fuel pump control section of the Link help files states that the dual/triple "fixed" speed control methods require 2 aux channels, one for the pump relay, the other for the controller switching, which makes sense. But then it says the three stage PWM speed controller method only requires one Aux channel... How then is the fuel pump relay then switched on? Can someone clarify please. Cheers.

Thanks, barge. After further digging I had actually sussed that the NZEFI unit was the same as some Range Rover, Jag, Volvo and Ford (Euro) pieces after posting. I had found many for sale on ebay and even one here in NZ (ex Mondeo) which I have bought circa $NZ125 and am waiting for it to arrive. The NZEFI units are apparently back in stock mid month with a loom plug. The only difference between theirs and the OEM ones is they have cleaned them up and mounted them on an additional alloy(?) plate, presumably for extra heat sink capacity. I have also found pin out info for the units from another person online adapting them but confirmation from whatever diagram you have would be good thanks. If I can't source a loom plug locally for it I'll adapt an inline connector/loom or get back to you. The jaguartroy link you posted appears to be for an earlier or later, plastic cased version rather than the alloy heat sink boxed unit. No doubt it would do the same job in enabling PWM of a fuel pump via the Link G4+ ECUs. Scott C: Saw that thread during a search thanks. No definite outcome as a long term fix as yet from what I read. Stevieturbo: Running a newish high CCA rated battery with a charging alternator thanks. Chasing a bad hot start issue by continually test cranking on the starter and having the fuel pump prime every time still tends to discharge the battery. I'm now running a second battery in parallel with jumper leads just while chasing the issue which has improved the situation. I still feel a proper variable speed control of the pump will have several advantages, not just lower electrical load. Cheers.

Hi, I have a Walbro 255L in tank pump in a Nissan Z32 project car which is presently configured through a G4+ as simply on/off through a relay. I'm finding it hard on battery life during tuning, especially chasing a hard start issue. As a means of lowering the current draw, electrical and pump duty plus to generally finesse the fuel delivery system, I'm after a fuel pump controller. Either a PWM or fixed two or three stage speed type like the original Z32 unit would be good but more reliable as I bypassed the OEM controller some time ago after fuel pressure issues. Link reseller NZEFI did sell an OEM looking unit a while back which is no longer available but can anyone recommend another make/type that I can adapt to the job running the G4+ ECU? The aftermarket Aeromotive and AEM units are a tad expensive... Cheers, Pete.

Thanks again Richard. Set up as directed and running now. Cheers.