Adamw

Everything else will be greyed out when you choose an OEM mode. Make sure you are using the latest firmware which is 6.26.11.

The GDI pump calibration looks wrong. The number of pump lobes is set to 4, yet the Pump calibration table spans 180degrees. This table maps the profile of the pumping side of the cam lobe so it should only span about 90deg if there are 4 lobes. So either the calibration table is wrong, or the pump has 2 lobes. I recently done a 2.0L R9DA EcoBoost so we have known good data for that engine, but this engine had 3 lobes on the pump cam, do you know if the 2.3 pump/cam is different?

You can right mouse click on the table and choose axis set up, or use the keyboard shortcut "X" to set up the axes of the tables. After you select the runtime that you want on the axis (for example ECT on the idle target), then click the "Init Axis" button and that will set it up with some default breakpoints that will be suitable for most.

Your wiring sounds ok. In a perfect world you should have a 120ohm terminating resistor near the AEM device, but that is unlikely your problem, I have seen many used successfully with no termination before. So I think possibly an issue with your software config. Attach your map and one of us will take a look.

Connect a pull-up to 12V should solve it. Try something like 1-5Kohm. The injector drives wont need it as they dont have the fault detection stuff.

There is 997 & 987 CAN modes in G4X & G5 ecu's which are our current range. You are posting in the G4+ forum which is an older generation and doesnt have the Porsche CAN. Be aware in the current firmware I believe there may be a PSM and PASM warning showing on the dash in some cars, we have dealers testing some fixes for that now so hopefully that will be solved soon.

The ignition outputs arent flywheeled or pulled up, I think that is a typo in the help file. I think the chipset that is used probably does have a weak bias internally for the fault and short detection strategy however. The general idea is you want the same voltage or higher on the negative side of the LED when "off" so no current flows through it. If the voltage on the negative side is lower than the positive side when off then you will have a current flow and therefore light generated. What is the otherside of the LED connected to?

Is your Storm wired standalone or is it a piggyback like this thread is about? Reluctor wiring and correct polarity is covered in the help file. There are also pinouts and related info for some common engines in the help file section: Wiring Information > Input Signal Wiring > Trigger Inputs > Specific Trigger Applications

You mean the 5pin one right? I dont think the JST4 would even plug in to that ecu. Be aware also the pinout of the 4pin DTM plug is different for the haltech device, so make sure you have all matched up correctly. From memory the 12V and ground are the same, just the CAN H/L are swapped - but confirm that yourself. There are a couple of settings in your map that I would change: In the CAN setup, for the channel set to "Transmit Link MXS", you have the transmit rate set to 1Hz, change this to 20Hz. I know the older Aim dashes wouldnt work at 1Hz, although I've never tried on the newer ones. In >Analog Inputs>Lambda 1, the lambda sensor control needs to be set to "Link CAN".

Hi Mate, I have been asked by our tech support team to answer a query from you about the same subject. I will send you a file and explanation via that ticket later today.

Did you increase the filter? It still looks a bit more erratic than I would usually expect. And I think it will still take more Integral yet.

Yeah that looks usable, they always look a bit shit at cranking speed but it will likely look much better when it starts. Try the offset around 90deg if it is a yelsha D one.

Can you explain how/where you are measuring this? The only explanation for the reported fault would be the incorrect voltage on the supply side of the solenoid.

The other ecu that was giving similar errors to yours was found to have some incorrect capacitors fitted in the Lambda circuit. I dont yet know how many ecu's may be affected but Im fairly sure from your symptoms that yours suffers from the same issue. Unfortunately I think this will need to be returned to Link to be repaired. Email [email protected] and they will get some info from you and arrange getting it back.

That should be all you need. The WRX10 base map will probably be a decent starting point to load in. A fuel pressure sensor is certainly nice to have, not only for the initial setup of base pressure, but also can be used for deadtime correction and safety in case of fuel pressure loss under high load. But you can still get it running without it.

Im a little suspicious of the ign 4 active state setting for fan 3 in our base map, try changing this to low to see if the fan turns off.

Can you do a short log and a trigger scope when the tooth tolerance error is showing, and attach a copy of the most recent tune.

Are they a modified injector? Is there a part number on them? What do you mean by "injectors will not go below 1.5ms"? Does it just stall if you reduce VE further? Your fuel density looks a little low for E85. Also your MAP sensor calibration is a bit odd for a omni 3bar, I usually see this quoted for the omni 3 bar: This calibration would result in quite a bit less fuel below 100Kpa compared to what you have now.

I agree with Vaughan's diagnosis, the crank sensor waveform is inverted. The only explanation I could put to that is someone has messed around with the wiring at some stage. There are no pinout or sensor variations in these models that I have come across yet. I have seen the pins mixed up in the firewall plug a couple of times before so possibly something like that. Crank sensor wiring diagram attached if you wanted to trace out yourself, but I suspect just swapping the +/- wires in the crank sensor plug will sort it. wi-18805e.pdf

Fans are controlled by ECT, not IAT. If the fan comes on using the base map but not the original map then it is probably one of the active state settings in the fan settings. You can use the file compare function to highlight the differences between the 2 maps. Error 46 would be expected with no IAT sensor connected. You will need an IAT, there is no safe way to tune a turbo car without one.

The ignition pulse in test mode is only 2ms long so a multimeter will not be fast enough to see it. But the values you report sound about what I would expect. If you have an LED test light that will be fast enough to pick it up. You could possibly compare the voltage to the cyl 3/4 coil but im not sure how relevant that will be.

I would say you are looking at a map offline so any new settings that need to be pulled from the firmware will be vacant. Change it to custom when online and you will see the value that is currently being used in the firmware.

If you set aux 8 test to PWM and set the frequency to 10Hz, can you hear the valve clicking? The boost control function will only activate when the engine is running and all lockouts are met. This would suggest it is failing the open load test. The ecu checks the voltage on the aux pin when the valve is "off", it expects to see something close to battery voltage. So iIt sounds like you dont have 12V on the supply side of the solenoid.

The Link CAN lambda has a range of 0.65-10.0Lambda, in gasoline AFR this is about 9.55 to 147:1

Last week we had another customer report similar symptoms to yours, that one is still being investigated but it initially appears that it may be an internal hardware issue. Would you be able to do 2 further tests for us: Set lambda 1 to run when stalled to see if it then steps through calibration and heating more reliably with the engine off, if it appears to work better like this then please do a few power cycles to check if it works every time or is intermitant. If possible it would be great if you could also try moving the 5 lambda 1 wires in the E plug over to the Lambda 2 positions, then enable lambda 2 to see if that controller behaves different.