Adamw

I havent heard that one before, what specific fuel are you talking? I have doubts leaded fuel would cause any issues like that, from a corrosion perspective is has quite a protective effect as it is very anodic. You will even find lead anodes purposely stuck inside the water jacket in outboard engines etc to prevent corrosion. It is also very soft and highly lubricious so its hard to associate that to the scoring of the bores etc. Up until a few years ago nearly all race fuels were heavily leaded, about 25years ago even all premium pump gas here was leaded and I have never once heard any stories of negative effects on the engine itself, really only O2 sensor poisoning and the health related impacts were the only negatives I really considered.

I thought I attached the wiring info yesterday but it didnt stick for some reason. Ignition outputs 3 & 4 are on the main header.

I assume it is a 24-1 trigger wheel, not 24 teeth with none missing? If it is then the trigger setup should use multitooth/missing mode. You also need to set sync mode to none and lower trig 1 arming threshold. You may even need to reduce the sensor airgap a little as you only have 0.27V on trig 1 where the crank slows down due to compression. The original wiring crank sensor was correct. You will also need to set up a MAP sensor and TPS to run the engine, these wont prevent a spark however. What ignition coil do you have?

Can you do a PC log of a startup attempt also. I dont see anything seriously wrong in your map or scope but there are a couple of potential issues that we can confirm with a log. Your map shows there was a 90% fuel and ignition cut present when you last saved it. This was due to RPM and MAP limit set to 0, but it looks like you have since fixed that. The signal on trigger 2 looks a bit noisier than expected, but this wasn't causing any problems when the scope was captured. I think this will probably improve when the engine is running so is probably not an issue but a log will confirm that it is happy at cranking speed. Pre-crank prime is probably too large considering very big injectors, I suggest halving the values in your current table. The charge temp approximation table is incorrect, I suggest you import the table from our WRX V11 base map as a better starting point. Set the launch RPM to something higher than 0 in case the switch is active sometime.

As you have it written is exactly how it should be set.

The AC amp originally had a tacho signal from the ignitor, have you maintained that?

It would be best to use "dumb coils" that dont have internal igitors. Cyl 1 & 2 coils can be wired direct to the ecu, Cyl 3 & 4 will require an external ignitor to be wired between the ecu and coils. I dont have any suggestion for coils as I havent had much to do with mini's, but many Fords and most BMW's have dumb coils so I would start by looking at some of those. Do the R56 coils fit the earlier engine? Im pretty sure they are the same as the S85 etc so pretty decent coils.

This is wrong. Go back to your stream 1, delete the frame, load the x-series template as is, you dont need to change anything. Then go to Analog inputs>lambda 1 and set sensor control to Link CAN.

The Storm has 8 auxes as well as you would have 2 ignition drives and 2 injector drives spare so plenty for this engine with cable throttles. I would go for a solenoid type idle valve though if you can.

Although not particularly important with the g4X, the ideal location for the missing tooth would be so that the missing tooth passes the sensor either 60-90deg before TDC or 60-90 after TDC. No advantage which of those you choose.

The only time I have seen the driver installer error is with macbooks which have an arm processor. Some of the lowcost windows tablets are now using arm processors also, so I suspect this is what you have. Not officially supported by PC Link but with a bit of faffing around you can make it work. There is some guidance in this thread:

Go to VVT setup, and change the mode from Evo9 to OFF.

As far as I know you dont normally have to change any wiring. The IC spray possibly assuming your pinout is accurate, but I don't remember having to do that before. All the others you mention look fine as is. Pin 3 matches our pinout, Pin 4 and 5 are possibly different but I have never seen the sec air system used. Pin 16 is NC is our pinout, TPS is on pin 78 which matches yours. The only other changes needed are software settings, set fan 2 output to ign7, turn off VVT.

What is the firmware code on the micro? I had a quick look in the D42LEXUS firmware and that has hard coded clamps of 5% and 95%.

It is now a bit more difficult as blink have changed the microcontrollers several times recently due to supply issues. The firmware is different for the different micro's and I learnt the hard way by bricking one with the wrong version. If you give me a photo of the label on the back of your keypad then I can check if I have suitable firmware for it.

For the idle valve, you can use test mode with the engine off to check it is working. Go to injector 7 output, change its function to Test (PWM) and change the frequency to 10Hz, you should hear it clicking if it is working. For the batt voltage, start by confirming voltage between Pin 49 or 59 (+12V) and pin 116 (main ground).

The V1.2 would be about 2 years old, the current version is V1.3. The main difference is 1.3 had some updates to the power supply to give it better immunity to electrical noise. With V1.2 occasionally if connected to a noisy power supply it could report false errors. Usually moving to a power source closer to the battery or fitting a capacitor was needed.

There are 4 user resetable "trip meters" as well as the non-resetable main Odo. You can add 1 of the 4 User odo's to any field on the screen just like any other channel. A an example below, I have put "Odo Dist 1" on the screen and renamed it Odometer. You can reset these using the buttons on the dash to navigate to the counters menu or from memory you can do it in the live measures area when connected to RS3.

No map attached so shooting in the dark a bit, but your log shows your throttle is bouncing backwards and forwards so I would say the main problem is way too much idle actuator integral gain. A typical starting point would be 0.02-0.05 for e-throttle idle so confirm you are around that, if not then try 0.05. Your idle ignition is also a bit more advanced than I would use for E-throttle. Start with idle ign target at 10, min clamp at -5 and max at 30, this will give better torque authority.

Do you still have stock coils/ignitor connected as well?

Its going to turn off momentarily every 0.24s from that as far as my logic suggests. You should set your condition to something that is always true, such as Batt voltage > 1V or BAP > 10kpa etc.

What is the throttle body?

It is fine to do that.

Pin 4 is controlled by the ignition switch signal on pin 31. What is the voltage on 31 with the ign switch on?

Your hardware connections are not clear from your descriptions above. You are going to need to trace what devices are connected to what buses. The PMU16 has 2 CAN buses, the ECU master recommended convention is CAN 1 is used for the USB to CAN device then all other control devices connect to CAN 2, but that is not set in stone so you need to confirm. The ECU also has 2 buses, CAN 1 is the lower round plug below the USB port, CAN 2 is in the bottom row of the B plug. Either of these can be used for any of your devices. The round port with the red o-ring on it is the USB port, this is only for your laptop connection. Make a list of how everything is connected and I can update those files to match.