Adamw

To confirm Laminar's comments, they are very similar ecu's, the main difference being built in lambda controller with the Fury. That means some of the pins are dedicated to a lambda sensor so the Fury has 2 less ignition outputs and 2 less analog inputs. Still plenty for the vast majority of applications. Both have all the same software capability and logging etc. I generally prefer the Fury as wiring works out simpler and a little cheaper total cost than an Xtreme + CAN Lambda, but it is usually more preference than any practical limitation. I would write a quick list of all your anticipated IO and see how it fits with those two ecu options. There is also the Voodoo but that is quite a bit more $ and probably isn't needed in this case.

Yeah that can happen when the tooth width Vs spacing is relatively symetrical. You will often still see a slight wave on one edge while the other (correct) will be straighter but I have seen a few where I couldn't confidently tell. Two easy ways to verify: Suck it and see... Get the engine running, make some very crude adjustments to get it running OKish, lock the timing, then give it a rev, if it is wired correct polarity the timing will be stable - say less than 1deg drift. If it is incorrect polarity you will see significant drift - say more like 10deg. Multimeter test - Connect a multimeter to just the sensor, set it to DC mV range, stick a spanner or similar iron object to the end of the sensor, quickly move the spanner away while watching the multimeter display, It will only briefly flash to either a small positive or negative voltage. If it flashes to negative as the spanner is snapped away, then your multimeter positive lead is connected to the sensor positive pin.

If you are using the default 1366*768 or 1920*1080 layouts then you should have CLL status displayed in the tuning runtime panel on your fuel page. Otherwise you can hit F12 from anywhere to open the separate runtime screen and look at CLL status on the fuel tab.

Just email [email protected] and enquire about a "bottom board swap". If you make contact during NZ bus hours you will likely get Simon and he is quite familiar with the process.

You can set it to zero to ignore the disarm speed. Without a disarming speed the launch limiter will stay in effect until the timer or other conditions that you have in virtual aux 1 expire.

To clarify, the Porsche 944 trigger will support distributor or wasted spark ignition and multipoint group injection, just not sequential or direct spark.

Using MGP on the axis of the fuel table will give more correct fuel with changes in altitude in comparison to using MAP on the axis. MAP is still used either way as a multiplier in the fuel equation. If your vehicle is not commonly used over large changes in altitude then it becomes more of a user preference in that case - either will do a similar job so you can use whatever you like. By the way, you could start by deleting 50% of those fuel tables cells to make tuning life easier, then only add extra rows or columns if you find some area where linear interpolation doesnt cover the trend in VE/airflow. I would generally start with 1000RPM columns and 20Kpa row increments.

There is, but that looks quite acceptable. The main thing that looks less than ideal on the 36-2 is the width/length of the teeth. The 12 tooth looks much better from that point of view. Note it is not 12-1, it is just 12T as supplied by the looks, unless you are going to grind one off. 12-1 would give slightly faster start-up on average compared to 12T.

So what was the cure for the trigger issue? Did you replace the cam sensor or find some other cause? Can you attach the log so I can see if there is any way to prevent the clutch switch issue. The lockouts are generally only assessed at the initialisation of the shift, as otherwise they may interrupt a shift if for example the driver briefly lifts off the throttle. We may have to add something like a "maximum shift time" to this shift mode, but I would like to see the log first.

I dont think I have even seen any calibration data for one, it is pretty uncommon to have them connected directly to the ecu, usually it is connected to the AC computer or BCM and transmitted over CAN so we dont need need a calibration.

Just the sensor, they are relatively easily damaged from thermal shock, poisoning from coolant or silicone products as well as mechanical shock from scenarios such as "limiter bangs" or the exhaust hitting something hard at high speed. It is relatively rare for the controller to fail.

The plug-in ECU is a completely different ECU, it is only designed to fit on plug-in specific adapter boards. The wire-in ECU's are a larger single board design with the main connectors part of it, more drivers and heat sinking etc. The closest you could do would be a "bottom board swap" to change it to a plug-in that has more IO available. WRX9X and DC5 Honda are a couple that spring to mind that are fairly complete and have 8 injector and ignition drives available.

I just looked back at your other posts to understand what you have now. I would generally say reducing tooth count is not going to solve a trigger error - a trigger error just means the ecu didn't receive the tooth count that it expected to. So either an extra "tooth" has been generated by ignition noise or similar, or a tooth has been missed due to a sensor/wheel/tooth/airgap compatibility issue. Looking at pics of your trigger wheel in your older post, it does have unusually sharp teeth for a hall effect sensor, so there is a tiny bit of doubt in the back of my mind that the sensor may not always be happy with that. Does the 12-1 wheel have bigger teeth? In your other post you mention the trigger error occurs during a hard launch, is that still the case? Does crankshaft end float look normal?

Regardless of whether the ecu remains powered up or not, there is an ignition switch signal on pin A1, when this turns off the ecu cuts all spark and injectors. So if it keeps running with ignition switch off then your problem is more around the ignition switch circuit. I dont think the fuel pump should have any relationship to the ignition switch circuit but it is not a chassis I know well. So start investigating why your Ignition switch input is staying alive.

You will have to find a pinout or wiring diagram that matches your car, then compare that to the Link pinout which is available in the help file or the pdf manual. There are so many pinout variations in the forester's and legacy's that I wouldnt just rely on what it "should" have according to the internet, you really need to verify yourself.

This means the calculated injector PW based on your operating conditions is less than what you have set as the minimum effective PW. So the ecu is clamping at the minimum instead of giving the calculated value. This is just information so the tuner knows he wont be able to make it any leaner. Most likely your minimum effective PW setting is wrong, typically around 0.1-0.3ms for most injectors.

I have helped a couple of guys setup G4X ecu's with the Turbolamik and they are working quite nicely. G4+ would be quite similar in terms of communication but the torque reduction or cuts would have to be done a bit differently. There's various options depending on how you want it to work and how powerful the car is. In the G4X we used the openloop power management function so we could use retard for low power shifts and variable cuts for high power shifts. I believe the gearbox doesnt actually need much torque reduction, its required more just to make it drive smoother and prevent it from erupting into wheel spin during a shift. I found the turbolamik documentation is a bit lacking in many areas, especially the CAN modes, but got everything working that they wanted with a bit of trial and error. Anyhow, just letting you know it is possible, you would likely want to convert to DBW if you want downshift blips, the supra ECU has DBW capability. I can help with basic setup as you progress.

I dont see anything in the log that suggests Cyl 5 & 6 are being treated any differently to any others. A couple of thoughts: There is a crap ton of fuel being injected. ~30% duty cycle to idle at 2500rpm is about 10X more than I would expect. Does it improve if you reduce master fuel? There appears to a fuel supply issue, your fuel pressure drops away whenever the injector PW increases. It drops all the way down to 30Kpa just after start up when crank enrichment etc was active. It returns to 250Kpa shortly after, but later in the log as RPM comes up the fuel press drops to ~100Kpa. The 5Bar MAP sensor calibration is pretty uncommon, do you have one of the variohm/Link 5 bar stainless sensors? Have you confirmed base timing?

Its pretty unusual to have a lambda sensor reporting incorrect values with no other error codes, so Im a bit hesitant to say it is a failing sensor but that is really the only logic that I could fit to your description. Im assuming the 2 lambda sensors are in a similar location - there is no chance that the Link one is exposed to an air leak but the AEM is not? I would try replacing the sensor.

Converting the tune is relatively manual. I generally open both PC Link's side by side, start at the top of the settings tree and work my way down one folder at a time. Most tables you can use the export to clipboard/import for clip board to copy and paste with all the axis setup etc. There are a couple of tables that are a little more complicated where it was a 2D table in G4+ but 3D in G4X, (example RPM limit), for these it is easiest to set up the axes the same first then you can import or copy/paste. Fuel tune will remain pretty similar between both, with the exception of closed loop lambda and accel enrichment. Ignition should be almost the same. Most functions with PID loops will need retuning. For the fuel pump and fan triggers etc, just assign a CAN aux rather than real aux in the specific function. Will likely need custom CAN set up at both ends. There are set up instructions for the ecu master switch pad in the help file.

What does this involve?

The ecu all appears to be happy to me. A triggerscope would be good to confirm it is actually the exhaust cam sensor connected to trig 2 as they wont sync reliably if the intake cam is used. Your fuel pressure is only 190Kpa so that wont be helping but I still would have expected some signs of life even at that. Provided that pressure is accurate you could change the Fuel system type setting to FP sensor which will compensate for the low pressure as a test. Do you have spark? Are the plugs getting wet?

There is a schematic 3 posts up.

Yes that is correct.

There are configurable filters on the analog input in RS3, set it to 16 or 32sec.