Adamw

You cannot see or change any ecu settings if the ecu has been password protected.

You have a trigger issue as RPM shows zero when cranking. One issue is the pull-up on trigger 2 is off, so that likely needs to be enabled. And I would say your arming threshold on trigger 1 is probably too high, especially if it cranks a bit slow. Try it like below.

The main relay/pin 27 is controlled by a FET inside the ECU, you can think of a FET as a very efficient switch. The FET is controlled by the ignition switch/Pin 56. When the ignition switch is off, the FET is effectively "open", giving a circuit roughly equivalent to below. With the FET open you have no current flow through the circuit so you should have 12V at point a, b, c & d. If you measured voltage across the relay (c&d) you should have 0V (because same volatge on both sides). When the ignition switch is on, the FET has a very low resistance to ground, effectively pin 27 is switched to ground, something like below. If you measured voltages in this state you should have 0V at a, 0V at b, 12V at c, 12V at d. If you measure across the relay (b&c) you should measure 12V. The relay should be energised and the contacts pulled closed.

Ground one side of the switch and connect the other side to any spare DI. DI10 on pin 46 might be convenient. In the clutch switch settings, turn on the pull-up resistor, and set the active state to whichever setting gives you the correct active/inactive status. I guess it will be active low if they are a normally open switch.

Your deadtime at 14V is 0.74 Vs 0.9 in the K20 base map, and because you are using multipoint injection with 2 squirts per cycle, you have 2 deadtimes per cycle, so any error due to deadtime is doubled. Assuming the 0.9ms deadtime was realistic then you would be getting 0.32ms less fuel each cycle than the ECU thinks it is giving you. Your effective PW at idle is about 1ms so that is more than 30% error in terms of fuel delivered (sorry I had that wrong originally, it is more like 15% error, but still significant).

If the ECU was not grounding pin 27 to activate the main relay then you should see 12V on that pin. You should see 0V when the ecu is grounding it to activate the relay.

No, the table would not have been active with DI8 off. It is only the status display in PC Link that doesnt update after an input is turned off.

What is the voltage on Pin 56 and pin 27 with the ignition switch on?

How are you testing this? It will only be a very short pulse ~5ms, so you will need a noid light, or LED test light, or oscilloscope to be able to see the pulse. A multimeter or normal test lamp will not be fast enough to see an injector pulse. Very likely the injectors are seized after that amount of time.

I dont yet have any experience with the light version, but assuming it has the same CAN flexibility as the other models it can be done. You need to build a complete custom CAN template in RS3. If you attach your dash and ecu config I can take a look.

Just a quirk of the G4+ software. You can temporarily set it to gp input and turn the pull-up off, then set it back to off.

Attach your ADU file and I will take a look. Their default Link template looks correct to me, it uses ID1000 like you have set above. I have attached a basic ADU file with the CAN set up that should work. Link Generic Dash.adu

I dont think it is really needed, but G4+ set-up is the same: https://www.aim-sportline.com/download/ecu/racing/LinkG4+Series_101_eng.pdf You only have to connect the 2 CAN wires and set the stream to Link - CAN BUS BASE in RS3. ECU setup is in the help file.

Click on the "Import Template" button and there is a Link CAN Lambda template in there.

Can you attach a log and tune, I've only used cruise control in a couple of quite similar cars so not a large exposure, but I did use it a lot in those and it worked really nicely, quite a bit better than any OEM cruise I have used, so Id like to see what is causing that, maybe its just a set up issue like too much derivative rather than something missing from the functionality?

You really need to get a tuner or someone experienced to diagnose your fuel pressure issue, you are going to fry your engine if that is a supply issue and you keep driving it like that. Luckily your tuner has done a decent job and set up fuel pressure compensation and engine protection for low fuel pressure so that has probably saved your engine, but that has a time delay etc so should only be used as a backstop, not relied upon. The "banging and shaking" that you are complaining about is the engine protection limiting the engine whenever fuel pressure is low. It is nothing to do with your injector seal or whatever, this is a loss of pressure due to an issue with the fuel supply, or possibly the pressure sensor/wiring failing.

Yes.

If the incoming data is already calibrated into pressure units then set the calibration to none. If it is received as voltage then you would need to assign a calibration to convert the voltage to pressure. If incoming data is pressure units then it needs to be kPa - or use the multi/div to convert as it is received.

The shield is only grounded at the ecu end, it needs to pass through any connector between the ecu and sensor so that the full length of cable is shielded - including the short length of cable after that connector pictured.

Is there 12V on pin 56?

A NOS solenoid would typicaly be done using a GP PWM. A basic example below. The solenoid is active when TPS is above 80% and MAP is above 200Kpa and there are no limiters active. The PWM table you can set up however you like. Use a 4D fuel table to add extra fuel when the NOS is active.

Sorry I assumed your dash was using generic dash stream. There is a conigurable version of the dash2pro stream in the CAN folder also. I have updated your map. mike gordon downloaded tune New CAN.pclr

Some inspiration for @Arron Eades . The preferred ECU mounting system for every Le mans car since 1990 :

No bridging needed. Consider the box I have marked "solo" on the pictures above as the CAN connector somewhere near your solo. You will have 2 CAN H wires crimped into the CAN H pin (1 in and 1 out) and 2 CAN L wires crimped into the CAN L. The bus will be continuous whether the solo is plugged in or not.