Adamw
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Posts posted by Adamw
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Not a popular application to give much personal info or experience, but assuming you have a G4X then the trigger is supported. You will need a cam/phase sensor. Wire injector drive 1 & 2 to the single injector in the port that feeds cyl 1&2, and Injector drive 3&4 connected to the injector in the other port.
Injection mode sequential, injector timing mode set to start of injection at around 410BTDC would give something like below, the idea being to inject the majority of fuel when only a single intake valve is open. I drew this based on approx 1275 GT valve timing. Injectors will need to be big enough to keep duty cycle below about 20%.
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Have a look at the OEM wiring for the coils you are using, most that have 4 pins wont need the noise filter as they have a dedicated ground for the secondary winding, not all however.
It is mostly 2 pin "dumb" coils that require a condenser as the secondary winding grounds through the 12V pin. So when a spark occurs the spark voltage must travel back to the coil through the 12V pin.
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Since you have an idle valve the fuel equation load source will need to be set to MAP. Fuel, ignition and lambda target table axis should be TPS.
Assign a calibration to the ECT sensor. Disable knock control until tuned. Set Idle valve frequency to about 200Hz, set a realistic target idle speed and base position (50% will do as a starting point).
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Please attach a copy of your tune and log as we have already told you several times.
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Share a copy of the tune/map. Has it ever been tuned? The lambda is nowhere near target at any time.
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Typically you want the ecu to focus around the frequency that gives to best signal to noise ratio when knock occurs, using a wideband filter means you allow a wider range of frequencies through so the ecu will see more noise that is not knock - the signal to noise ratio will be lower.
Wideband may be useful in cases where the frequency is unknown and the engine is relatively quiet from a mechanical noise perspective. For narrowband if the frequency is unknown then you either need to experiment around the assumed frequency or do a frequency analysis.
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The vast majority of complaints we see of USB connection issues nowadays is with MR2's for some reason, so your car may well share the same unknown cause.
The first things I would try:
- The ignitor grounding is not great in these cars, from memory they ground through its metal body which bolts to a bracket which then bolts to a painted part of the chassis, so lots of potential for high resistance with all the joints involved here. Pull all of that apart and make sure all contact points/bracket/bolts/chassis etc is clean, paint free and corrosion free.
- Replace the noise filter on the coil supply, its just a capacitor and old toyotas have a reputation for bad capacitors so there is potential that has died. The spark return path is through this capacitor so make sure its ground connection is also good.
- I dont know where the ECU grounds to in these cars, but if you can find that, then confirm that is also clean, unpainted and corrosion free.
- If enabled, try turning off idle ignition control - some distributors dont like the big timing swing at idle and the spark ends up jumping to everything except the desired post.
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Evo3 3000gt
in G4x
These are from some old notes I had from helping someone years ago. Carefully compare pinouts yourself as I remember there being quite a few pinout variations. The pinout I had used was labelled 92 3000GT dohc turbo.
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The "ID's not found" error would usually indicate you have an older version of PC Link connected to an ecu with a newer firmware. It shouldn't let you connect in that case but there was a rouge version a while ago that would connect regardless of version. PC Link 7.3.11 is the current version.
For the SPWA, are you using the Link ECU specific datasheets? They used to have the correct breakpoints but I havent checked for a while. Otherwise if it is wrong then go to the GM page and look at the GM EFI live or HP tuners one as one of those will have the correct breakpoints
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The erratic MAP looks like a faulty sensor or wiring/connection issue. In some places the MAP drops to ~40Kpa when the throttle is near wide-open so that shouldnt be realistically possible assuming the throttle is actually open. The only way to create that much vacuum at WOT would be something else working as a "throttle" such as a rubber intake pipe collapsing.
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Set your Lambda 1 as per pic below.
1 hour ago, BOT-SAM.J said:A general inquiry I have aside from the main queostion is will the Link ECU report error codes that the stock ECU would've reported, for example the error code 54 that the stock computer on the celica would give for if the intercooler pump fails or has low fluid.
Fault codes are reported in red text in the tab bar at the top of your screen, as well as the events log in the popout menu on the left. The Code will also be flashed via the CE light. The codes will be different than the factory ecu, descriptions can be found in the menu >help>ECU fault codes
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The idle oscillation is due to the idle actuator integral gain, it is currently 0.5, for e-throttle 0.05 would be more typical. The MAP lockout in idle control settings probably wants to come up to about 65kPa as it may be a bit borderline at 50kpa when its cold due to your altitude.
Your VVT will need calibration to make that work, and the WRX11 VVT target table might be a better starting point than the current one also.
The fuel table will likely need adjustments to bring the lambda closer, but you probably want to correct the fuel press sensor first as that will likely change things when enabled later.
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Just confirm your new sensor doesnt have continuity from the steel mounting base to either pin, (some bosch sensors do), provided it doesnt then it can be connected either way to the stock wiring.
To find the best frequency you really need to do frequency analysis with an audio device or trial and error. 6KHz narrow works best on my evo7, but that is a stock 2.0
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On 8/28/2024 at 5:29 PM, retro said:
Any ETA on that baseboard Adam?
My guess is more than a year, it is not being worked on yet, and based on others, it generally takes about 6 months to work its way through prototyping, and testing before it is released for production. There has also been demand to support the stock sequential turbos now that these cars have become more valuable so there are plans to investigate that as part of the update which may make it a bigger job than a typical bottom board update.
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- The values in your fuel table are not suitable for modelled fuel equation, VE should be around 50-60 at idle and ~100-110 at peak torque. I would start by importing the table from our WRX11 base map. Import the charge temp approximation table from the WRX11 map while you are there.
- Turn off the 4D fuel table which was for TGV. Turn off the IAT trim table as modelled mode will take care of this in the calculation.
- Your fuel pressure looks incorrect, it is showing 600Kpa even when the pump is not running. You could try changing fuel system type to MAP referenced so the fuel pressure sensor is ignored for now.
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If its started the engine already then it is already unlocked. If it no longer connects and no longer starts, then I would first pull the lid off the ecu case to check the blue power LED is glowing.
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7 hours ago, Draven said:
So why would it be able to catch the correct singles on a first start and then have the issues once it's warm?
It may be that temperature or battery voltage affects the RPM at which the sensor inverts its signal, or possibly the signal may never be correct, so it just syncs on the correct phase by luck rather than by design.
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It would not be a great option in this case, Ign 4 on the evo plug-in cant be used for ignition as it has extra hardware connected for the main relay control. You could only run wasted spark. That engine also has dumb coils so you will need to add ignitors into the patch harness or change to smart coils aswell.
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It should be relatively simple to set up with no configuration of the USB adapter outside of realdash needed at all. I would default the USB adapter by powering up with the default pads shorted. Then power cycle and follow the attached video.
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There are a few variations of 4AGE distributors. If yours has a wire tail that hangs out the side then it is usually easy to work out by looking at the wire colours inside. The ground wire is usually white or cream colour, it is easy to identify as it splits into 2 or 3 wires inside and goes to all sensors. Connect this to Atom pin 7.
The lower 24T sensor usually has a red wire, connect this to trigger 1 - Atom pin 8.
The upper sensor (some have 2 upper sensors), usually a green wire, connect this to trigger 2 - Atom pin 9. Leave the other upper sensor not connected to the ecu.
For the toothed wheels, leave the bottom wheel unmodified, so the ECU sees 24T per revolution. For the top wheel we want just a single tooth per revolution, if yours has 4 teeth, then cut off 3 teeth to leave just one. It doesnt matter which one you choose to keep.
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Please dont uses screenshots, you need to attach the tune file and a PC log as both Vaughan and I have already asked in your previous posts.
As a quick observation with no data - your picture above shows the actual injector PW was only 1.9ms, if you take say 1ms deadtime off this you only have the injector open about ~0.9ms. If they are 440cc injectors, then 0.9ms PW shouldn't even be enough fuel to run. So with your comment that it was hydraulicing and would only run with the fuel pump turned off, Im suspicious you might have a wiring issue causing the injectors to be constantly on, spraying wide open all the time. Does each injector click if you run the injector test?
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The original safety strategy used by the factory ecu was an electronic clutch in the throttle body to mechanically disconnect the motor from the throttle shaft. With the Link plug-in the "e-throttle relay" output controlled that clutch.
In your case with an aftermarket throttle body you wont have this extra layer of safety from the clutch or the ability to disconnect power from the E-throttle circuit, however it is still quite safe, the RPM is limited to 1800 if a throttle fault ever occurs.
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Ok, so these scopes show the problem. The cam wheel on these has a 4-1, pattern, so the ecu expects to see 2 edges 180deg apart then a 360 deg gap until the next edge. Your good scope matches this correctly. You have trig 2 edge set to falling, so I have marked the falling edges that the ecu is looking at:
Now if we look at the "no start scope" you will not see this pattern. You might also notice most of the teeth are inverted compared to the scope above:
In engines that have sensors that invert like this, you will usually find 1 edge will give the correct position while the other edge moves. In this case it looks like the rising edge is the correct one. If I mark the rising edge on trigger 2 on the same scope then it looks more like the expected pattern:
So, in the trigger settings, change trig 2 edge to rising will likely solve the mis-sync issue. This "flip" often occurs around idle speed, so if you see any weird VVT behaviour on ay of the other cams then swap the active edge on those also.
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Assuming you are using the Porsche 987/997 CAN mode then the start signal should come in on CAN DI 2.
So I would expect the starter setup to look something like below, the start switch mode may be normal or touch start depending how the signal works.
BMW - LS Gen4 7.0L - DBC - RazorPDM - CAN Lamda
in G4x
Posted
Yes the GM breakpoints should match ours.
Unfortunately I have never used knock control on a LS7 so I dont have any good examples for you. On C16 NA it would have to be a fairly extreme compression ratio to even be knock limited? Years ago we used to run a whole race category of LS7.R GT3 engines with an old Link G4 ecu (no knock control), on 98RON pump gas. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7CIMfJVLjGQ